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Throttle body removal/reassembly - '06 IQ

hey mule, that is not the nut you want..the one you want takes a 10 mm wrench and it is the actual adjuster nut on the cable that locks the cable to the bracket...(there are two nuts-one on each side of the bracket)just loosen the nut closest to the pump arm...once it is unthreaded you can pull the cable out of the bracket and then use the extra cable slop to turn the end in the pump arm until it pops out of the arm..then reverse the install....when all done the marks on the arm and pump should be lined up ...
 
Do not remove the nut in the red circle...

Also, you cant remove the cable from the oil pump with the engine in the sled and the throttle body on... no access.
There is an E-Clip holding the cable bushing on the end of the cable at the oil pump arm.

Once the throttle body is removed, you have easy access to the cable at the oil pump.

You may be able to remove the brace without pulling the primary off... I've just never tried...

Pull the belt... unbolt the secondary and remove it from the shaft... no special tools required... Just make sure you pay attention to the shims and spacers on the center bolt on the secondary when you remove them... Put on the parking brake to hold the clutch in place while you remove the bolt.

You must remove the nut in my photo that says "remove this nut completly"... which means take it off of the cable housing untill it is up on the cable itself and the cable housing is released from the bracket it mounts to on the throttle body..

You then have enough room/slop in the cable to remove it from the throttle plate.

If you pull the nut in the red circle... you will have a rats nest explosion of springs and washers/bushing on your hands.

There are 6 fasteners holding the brace on some have nuts on them others are treaded into the rear motor mount carrier.
 
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Excellent... I will give that a try. That spring in the red didn't seem to have a whole lot of spring to it, I could easily move it with my finger. Once I do it I'm sure it'll all make sense.
 
HERE is the TPS proceedure:

Here you go. This is for the Liberty 900 only, the 700/800's is a different procedure.


TPS CHECKING PROCEDURE
If you are replacing or setting the baseline for the TPS these steps will need to be followed in order to ensure proper operation.
ELECTRICAL CHECK
1. Disconnect the TPS sensor.
2. Install the TPS tester kit PN 2201519.
3. Verify that the wires are connected correctly or faulty readings will result.
4. Verify that the 9 Volt battery is good by inserting the BLACK volt meter probe into the terminal above the black wire on the
TPS tool. Place the RED probe from your meter into the terminal above the pink wire on the TPS tool. Turn the meter to the
VDC scale. the voltage should read 4.99 -- 5.01 VDC. If not try a known good 9 volt battery.
5. Set your multi--meter to VDC.
6. Hook the TPS tool to the TPS.
7. Measure and record the voltage reading at idle.
8. The indicated voltage should read .920 -- .940VDC. If it is, the TPS sensor is set correctly and should not need to be adjusted.
Continue to step 18.
9. Remove the throttle cable from the throttle body.
10. Loosen the lock nut on the idle set screw and back off the idle set screw until it separates from the lever tab.
11. The voltage reading should be .709 -- .711VDC. If your voltage reading at this point is not .709 -- .711VDC, loosen up theTPS
sensor screws and rotate the TPS sensor until you get a .709 -- .712 VDC reading.
12. When you tighten the TPS screws your voltage readingmay change. The TPSvoltage readingwill have to be correctwhen the
screws are at the torqued setting.
13. If you can not obtain any of these voltage measurements go to page 4.26 and reset the throttle body base line.
14. Thread in the idle set screw clockwise until you get a voltage reading of .920 -- .940 VDC. Now lock the lock nut.
15. When you tighten the lock your voltage reading may change. The TPS voltage reading will have to be correct when the lock
nut is at the torqued setting.
16. The TPS is now set.
17. Remove the TPS tool and replace the TPS connector to the TPS sensor.
18. Test run the engine. If engine issues persist go to step 10.
19. If you test the engine after setting both voltage readings and issues still are present, re--set the throttle body base line on page
4.26

NOTE: The 900 Liberty engine TPS is set at .92 -- .94 volts at idle.

Is there a setting adjustment for altitude?
 
Saw that TPS test in the service manual, i'll do that too. Don't have a TPS tester kit, but I have a calibrated power supply and assortment of test leads..... :D

Altitude sensor's in the wiring harness where the hood connects if I remember correctly. I did see it mentioned but didn't pay specific attention to it, and it was quite late. I don't believe that's a serviceable sensor. I'd bet that sensor would flat out fail rather than drifting much more than 5%.... Wouldn't worry about it too much.
 
I took the brace off and didn't need to pull the primary. Made it easier to get the wrench on it. I changed my boots last year and had to tear it all apart again to put a new throttle/oil cabe on. Now is the best time to change your factory one. It will fail soon and start to stick if it does break the engine won't get oil.
 
Success!

Engine brace came off without taking off either clutch. The two nuts for the throttle/oil cables weren't a problem. I think the oil cable is fine, it was a little sticky but freed up after all the oil was wiped off the action.

TB is sitting on my workbench, cleaned up nicely. Somehow I got a pine needle inside the reed... not into the reed valve itself, but in the body of it. :confused: Damn trees anyways. The oil on the engine wiped off easily with a little paint thinner.

Thanks for everyone's help... Mountainhorse, you sure know this stuff well. Knew it wouldn't be that hard a job but I was also aware that there's probably a few tricks to getting it all apart.

What's the point of the coolant tube through the throttle body?
 
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