S
summitag163
New member
Pretty sure it is the moisture in the air causing the icing, not snowdust getting in, will need to heat the carb bell a bit.
This cr500 is killing me
- Thread starter Screedman
- Start date
Don't have much to add as I'm in Tahoe and the conditions are different but I do have the electric start. Watch your oil in there mine was badly contaminated with water...I'm going to reroute the vent, change or at least look at that oil.
My 500 ran great yesterday with the M5 heater mounted as suggested in 4'plus of Tahoe snow. Pwk as well
My 500 ran great yesterday with the M5 heater mounted as suggested in 4'plus of Tahoe snow. Pwk as well
What jetting in the PWK? Just put mine on and it is breaking up and wont rev out wondering where to start
Here is where I'm at now riding 6-8000 feet with a 38 PWK on a basically stock motor.
170 main
48 pilot
float 16 mm
DGM needle 3rd clip
This time of year a tunnel cooler won't help you the problem is keeping heat in the bike. If you at not making engine heat no carb heater system will help. To keep ice away I like to see 130 plus coolant temp coming out of the head, In order to get rid of your icing you need to retain more heat. It may be that you are jetted too fat or you may need to shroud the motor or both.
You don't happen to have one of those pump primers on the carb by chance do you because they leak like crazy which would explain the premix in your ice.
M5
170 main
48 pilot
float 16 mm
DGM needle 3rd clip
This time of year a tunnel cooler won't help you the problem is keeping heat in the bike. If you at not making engine heat no carb heater system will help. To keep ice away I like to see 130 plus coolant temp coming out of the head, In order to get rid of your icing you need to retain more heat. It may be that you are jetted too fat or you may need to shroud the motor or both.
You don't happen to have one of those pump primers on the carb by chance do you because they leak like crazy which would explain the premix in your ice.
M5
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My setup worked great until this last week the snow was over the bars and temps below zero. I had to make a duct tape tent from tank to radiators to keep all snow from getting behind the radiators. I finally got it to run perfect in these conditions.
2 strokes won't make enough heat if your carb needle is to rich which is why the sc and lectrons seem to help so much. Sudco has cheap pwk needless get a bunch of thicker needless to try and get it to lean bog at your house when it first starts up. Then it will run perfect up on the mountain.
2 strokes won't make enough heat if your carb needle is to rich which is why the sc and lectrons seem to help so much. Sudco has cheap pwk needless get a bunch of thicker needless to try and get it to lean bog at your house when it first starts up. Then it will run perfect up on the mountain.
Finally got that sucker ripping. Went through my cooling hoses and found a pinhole leak. Then I made my own intake while I'm waiting for the pst pod to get here. No sputtering in -15 4feet Temps were 125-160 depending on going up or down.
172 main forgot to write my needle down second clip 52 pilot 6-10,000
Thanks for everyone's help
172 main forgot to write my needle down second clip 52 pilot 6-10,000
Thanks for everyone's help
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It really depends on the bike and how it is running. Change one thing at a time. Depending on baro pressure sometimes I feel like mine is a bit fat on the needle but not enough that I'm worried about it. Obviously your main concern is not to burn it down, so better off fat than lean. Keep adding main jet until it blubbers then back it off. They always run awesome when too lean, just not for very long. LOL
M5
Yeah lean is mean....if the bike starts running too good...she's gonna blow!!!
500 guys, how many hours are you getting out of a top end, just curious.
M5
M5
I don't have hour meters. On my trail bike I can run it for years, when I tore it down just because it seemed like I should I could have bought a new gasket kit and slapped it back on the same parts....trail bike just doesn't get wound out much.
My sand CR500 gets ripped apart often, I'm always messing around with it, it runs a fully ported bridgeless cylinder, spaced reeds with a V force 2, modified PWK39, cr250 ignition....It runs like a 125 but with massive balls. Near unrideable if it was anywhere but in the sand. I usually tear it down after just about every weekend. I've scattered rings a few times, it's fun but not reliable like a stocker.
My snow bike was on it's first year on it's top end. I ran it almost every weekend from the first of the year until almost the end of April. That's 16ish days and I probably averaged 6 hours per day...some longer few shorter so probably right around 100 hours. I have it torn out of the bike now but have not torn it apart. I am going to run my other black bottom end closer ratio motor this year. Yes I will get out run by my buddies KTM hogged out 600 and something on a lakebed but don't really care about that. I'm hoping to be able to bang the 3rd 4th gap a little more often in the hills. The motor that was in the bike with probably around 100 hours looks good just looking through the intake and exhaust. I can still see some cross hatching and the piston isn't showing wear in the areas I can see....I'm sure it would be fine for another season or 2.
My sand CR500 gets ripped apart often, I'm always messing around with it, it runs a fully ported bridgeless cylinder, spaced reeds with a V force 2, modified PWK39, cr250 ignition....It runs like a 125 but with massive balls. Near unrideable if it was anywhere but in the sand. I usually tear it down after just about every weekend. I've scattered rings a few times, it's fun but not reliable like a stocker.
My snow bike was on it's first year on it's top end. I ran it almost every weekend from the first of the year until almost the end of April. That's 16ish days and I probably averaged 6 hours per day...some longer few shorter so probably right around 100 hours. I have it torn out of the bike now but have not torn it apart. I am going to run my other black bottom end closer ratio motor this year. Yes I will get out run by my buddies KTM hogged out 600 and something on a lakebed but don't really care about that. I'm hoping to be able to bang the 3rd 4th gap a little more often in the hills. The motor that was in the bike with probably around 100 hours looks good just looking through the intake and exhaust. I can still see some cross hatching and the piston isn't showing wear in the areas I can see....I'm sure it would be fine for another season or 2.
I ran race fuel ported set up with a forged piston snow only... 250 hours... Changed the rings ever 50... At 250 the piston was starting to look stressed..... Even in that time lost a radiator and all the fluid... Still was good with rings. God I miss that bike[emoji16]
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I'm at about 80 right now, I think I'm going to throw a piston and rings at it just to be safe although I'm sure it would just keep going as is. Once I get the YZ done the 500 will probably only see the deep days where it really shines. As a spring time ride the 500 is a handful so the YZ will get the call.
M5
M5
M5, I know you are a machinist so you probably already know, but the 500 likes a torque plate for either a bore or hone or it will get the dreaded stop sign wear marks that line up with the head studs...more info for other CR5 guys than you.
For those that don't do their own machine work ask your machinist if they have a torque plate, ask about bridge relief...if they don't have the plate or address the bridge take it to someone else. the way it should go is you send or take your stuff to the machinist, he sizes it all out and if it is scored bumps it enough for the scratches to come out and sizes it all again. After this part of the process he should tell you what size piston you need then get the piston and rings. once the machinist has the piston he will put the final hone on and size the cylinder to the piston. Pistons vary in size and cast vs forged pistons have different expansion rates and therefore different tolerance specs from the manufacturer. The machinist will also check the ring gap and adjust that as needed to spec as well. If your machine work is done properly the CR500 will last for a bunch of hours without needing a rebuild. When you take it apart it wont have the stop size wear marks and you will most likely wonder why you even took it apart for a rebuild because it still looks good. Don't pay someone $20 to run a ball hone on a drill through your cylinder it should be brought to a plateau finish or something near and you should be unable to catch a fingernail anywhere on your bore like you would with a ball hone job. Proper machine work costs less than $100 buck...think my dude is $80 for a proper hone job to next size and $100 bore to size needed....meaning he has to take it past next size like an up 2. He is out of SF Bay Area and turn around is quick. I'm not trying to sell anything, I don't have a vested interest in this machinist, I just know he does it right. He is a 500 guy hillclimber and a machinist so he built the torque plate for himself and now makes money on the service. If someone needs his number PM me, I don't care who you use just get it done right. I know some people you should not use, there is pleanty of info about that on the CR500 specific forums.
For those that don't do their own machine work ask your machinist if they have a torque plate, ask about bridge relief...if they don't have the plate or address the bridge take it to someone else. the way it should go is you send or take your stuff to the machinist, he sizes it all out and if it is scored bumps it enough for the scratches to come out and sizes it all again. After this part of the process he should tell you what size piston you need then get the piston and rings. once the machinist has the piston he will put the final hone on and size the cylinder to the piston. Pistons vary in size and cast vs forged pistons have different expansion rates and therefore different tolerance specs from the manufacturer. The machinist will also check the ring gap and adjust that as needed to spec as well. If your machine work is done properly the CR500 will last for a bunch of hours without needing a rebuild. When you take it apart it wont have the stop size wear marks and you will most likely wonder why you even took it apart for a rebuild because it still looks good. Don't pay someone $20 to run a ball hone on a drill through your cylinder it should be brought to a plateau finish or something near and you should be unable to catch a fingernail anywhere on your bore like you would with a ball hone job. Proper machine work costs less than $100 buck...think my dude is $80 for a proper hone job to next size and $100 bore to size needed....meaning he has to take it past next size like an up 2. He is out of SF Bay Area and turn around is quick. I'm not trying to sell anything, I don't have a vested interest in this machinist, I just know he does it right. He is a 500 guy hillclimber and a machinist so he built the torque plate for himself and now makes money on the service. If someone needs his number PM me, I don't care who you use just get it done right. I know some people you should not use, there is pleanty of info about that on the CR500 specific forums.
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Z
zachwrench
New member
X2 on Bills work we will be sending another cr5 jug his way
