The Reason Our Axys Relays Are Failing
- Thread starter Perk
- Start date
Not sure IF you would find a solid state relay rated to 35 A?
Also the pin outs would not line up...the physical size would be different.
You could probably do it but would require rewire.
Just replace with Panasonic or Bosch.
Mount upright.
Dielectric grease base to seal out moisture.
You can get a 5 pack of Bosch waterproof relay and pigtail.
Chop off existing wiring harness....solder and heat shrink waterproof pigtail...mount relay upright.
https://m.ebay.com/itm/5Pcs-12V-5-p...elays-Switch-Harness/152788045881?_mwBanner=1
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where are they and how many
I was going to order a few for spares but can you tell me how many are on the sled and where they are? Most sleds have more than one relay.
I was going to order a few for spares but can you tell me how many are on the sled and where they are? Most sleds have more than one relay.
Last trip had issues with gauge coming up at start, irregular idle, drop in 150 drop in rpms and killed 3 times while using reverse. Ran strong otherwise. Checked motor mount. They showed slight wear but nothing like others have seen. Relays on the other hand were a different story. Thanks for all the great posts. If it wasn’t for snowest I would be chasing my tail.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
J
jim
Well-known member
Lots of things can cause corrosion. Dissimilar metals, moisture, arching, static charge, etc. Even wrapping a relay can still allow moisture from humidity in there. I also notice that the button/contact looks to be a different metal than the arm...this will cause anode/cathode reaction and build-up oxidation and/or corrosion and it's just a matter of time until you need high potential/voltage to break through the contact...then you have carbon...then it gets worse...then you have a high resistance contact and it's over. Wrong relay/material for this application.
Did mine today.
Ordered from Mouser.
Panasonic CM1-R-12
Put a bead of dielectric grease around base so after it's plugged in grease will prevent any moisture intrusion.
A smarter idea would also to buy some electronic conformal coating and spray the base of these relays. That is basically an electrically safe varnish that is used to coat circuit boards to protect against corrosion.
2018 SBA
2 relays are located right beside belt storage slot.
1 relay is inside velcro pouch above primary.
1 relay is below the side of the battery.
1 relay is toward back of battery.
1 of my battery relays for electric start had corrosion....and last trip out my electric start wouldn't work when I got home? So it might have been that relay!
Ordered from Mouser.
Panasonic CM1-R-12
Put a bead of dielectric grease around base so after it's plugged in grease will prevent any moisture intrusion.
A smarter idea would also to buy some electronic conformal coating and spray the base of these relays. That is basically an electrically safe varnish that is used to coat circuit boards to protect against corrosion.
2018 SBA
2 relays are located right beside belt storage slot.
1 relay is inside velcro pouch above primary.
1 relay is below the side of the battery.
1 relay is toward back of battery.
1 of my battery relays for electric start had corrosion....and last trip out my electric start wouldn't work when I got home? So it might have been that relay!
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The harness side of the connector is the problem. Get something to seal the backside of those connectors. I used liquid electrical tape on the 2 sitting on the cross bar.
I packed dielectric in back side of harness....and taped up tight with Scotch 33.
When machine is off warranty I will redo with waterproof harness and relay from Bosch.
I got all relays sealed up now.
I was also thinking conformal coating/ electrical varnish would be good to spray backside of harnesses.
The REAL problem is the Made in China tags all over the wiring harnesses....Polaris definitely cheaped out!
What do you do with connections in behind air box for ECU???....I left them alone for now.
I will definitely cover my sled IF on highway. Salt spray getting use hood would definitely not be good!
Pondering
Perk,
Great presentation.
I follow your logic... and have something else to add from years of experience in the marine industry.
Though the unused NC side of the contact shows no corrosion....as you noted, you would not expect it... the other side, N.O., could very well show issues related to moisture because of the heat/moisture/load placed on the contact in use.
The same thing rears its head on older cars with moisture under the distributor cap... with points style ignition....Often, when inspected, no moisture is present... but the points are fried.
Other things that can affect the condition of the contact, including the strength of the signal that the ECU is sending to the relay.... OR the resistance at the terminal/contact in the base of the relay... If corrosion is present, and the resistance of the terminal is significant.... the contacts in the relay will not 'slam together' fast or hard enough to make a good contact for the load present.... and a lot of arcing will happen... which fries the contact surfaces. If you don't pull the contacts together with speed and force... the contacts will suffer and longevity of the relay will be shortened drastically.
So, in different ways, the life of the contact Can be affected by moisture/corrosion even if it does not enter the relay.
I agree however that a much better relay can be used... and that the Panasonic relays that I listed in the other thread would have a better chance at being a better quality of relay and contact... though there is no direct evidence of this... just that Panisonic brand tends to carry a quality reputation.
Worth noting, there are Panasonic products that are made in 3rd world countries/locations.
Perk,
Great presentation.
I follow your logic... and have something else to add from years of experience in the marine industry.
Though the unused NC side of the contact shows no corrosion....as you noted, you would not expect it... the other side, N.O., could very well show issues related to moisture because of the heat/moisture/load placed on the contact in use.
The same thing rears its head on older cars with moisture under the distributor cap... with points style ignition....Often, when inspected, no moisture is present... but the points are fried.
Other things that can affect the condition of the contact, including the strength of the signal that the ECU is sending to the relay.... OR the resistance at the terminal/contact in the base of the relay... If corrosion is present, and the resistance of the terminal is significant.... the contacts in the relay will not 'slam together' fast or hard enough to make a good contact for the load present.... and a lot of arcing will happen... which fries the contact surfaces. If you don't pull the contacts together with speed and force... the contacts will suffer and longevity of the relay will be shortened drastically.
So, in different ways, the life of the contact Can be affected by moisture/corrosion even if it does not enter the relay.
I agree however that a much better relay can be used... and that the Panasonic relays that I listed in the other thread would have a better chance at being a better quality of relay and contact... though there is no direct evidence of this... just that Panisonic brand tends to carry a quality reputation.
Worth noting, there are Panasonic products that are made in 3rd world countries/locations.
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I'd think a little dielectric grease would do some wonders here.
In addition, inductive loads are terrible for relay contacts. They can pull big arcs when pulling apart. These can be reduced with a quench arc or capacitor. Does anyone know for sure what type of load is being driven? Resistive or Inductive?
My SBA was running fine.
Changed out 5 relays.
Used Panasonic CM1-R-12
Worked perfectly no issues.
Glad I got this done....
Changed out 5 relays.
Used Panasonic CM1-R-12
Worked perfectly no issues.
Glad I got this done....
Greetings,
Resurrecting an old thread hoping someone can help. Has anyone experienced this relay issue on a 2020 800 RMK? My sled was acting up last weekend and the issues here seem fairly consistent with my issue. I first experienced it pulling hard up an incline with fresh powder. The sled lost a lot of power and I was lucky to make it up to the top. Changed plugs and it seemed better for a short time but I kept getting intermittent power loss (almost like a short). The engine light would flicker during this process but it never threw a code and didn’t stay on. I just cleaned my power valves and have been searching the interwebs to see what else I can check for. I just checked my relays and the terminals look perfect but I didn’t break them open to inspect their guts. The sled has about 1100 miles on it.
Also, I see people recommend the Panasonic relays. Is there a difference between CM1A-R-12V and CM1-R-12V? Is one better than the other?
Thanking you in advance.
Resurrecting an old thread hoping someone can help. Has anyone experienced this relay issue on a 2020 800 RMK? My sled was acting up last weekend and the issues here seem fairly consistent with my issue. I first experienced it pulling hard up an incline with fresh powder. The sled lost a lot of power and I was lucky to make it up to the top. Changed plugs and it seemed better for a short time but I kept getting intermittent power loss (almost like a short). The engine light would flicker during this process but it never threw a code and didn’t stay on. I just cleaned my power valves and have been searching the interwebs to see what else I can check for. I just checked my relays and the terminals look perfect but I didn’t break them open to inspect their guts. The sled has about 1100 miles on it.
Also, I see people recommend the Panasonic relays. Is there a difference between CM1A-R-12V and CM1-R-12V? Is one better than the other?
Thanking you in advance.
F
Funzy0798
Well-known member
I havent seen much about relays posted here for the 2020 (and i read every thread about relay issues a few weeks ago after having an issue on my 16), but if they did not change the wire harness since 2018 (which i dont think they would do), then i would believe the 2020 would have the same issues. Aside from relays, people have been finding shorts in random spots (check above the belt guard at the block mounted to it, that one is somewhat common), bad EGT/pipe temp sensor (this was an issue on our 18), melted stator plugs (white connector in velcro above the oil bottle if i recall), loose ECU pins (mostly the orange one in the smaller connector, but i think that was mostly a 16 17 issue), VES connector getting unlocked at servo (a little tab clicks in to the plug to lock it), and a handful of random things.
Those 2 relays are different, but will both work. one has an extra post on it (the one with the "a"), but its unused (no wire running to that pin) in the plug on the axys
Thank you! I took at look at as much wiring and connections as I could yesterday but I’ll go through them again. I have new relays on the way (why not right). I’ll let you know if I figure anything out. Cheers
Update; I think I found my issue. A couple of my wires on my PWM to Analog converter are nicked and probably causing a short and/or some sort of malfunction. Question; is there a way to test the converter to see if it is working properly? I’d like to try and salvage it by repairing the wires if possible. This little piece of gold is worth $120 and that is money better spent elsewhere.
