Nope!
Not necessary with the FTX kit... My chaincase was removed for other reasons.
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THE MOUNTAINHORSE CUSTOM PRO-RIDE-CHASSIS RMK BUILD THREAD
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
Nope!
Not necessary with the FTX kit... My chaincase was removed for other reasons.
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FYI, for anyone else out there seeing this and feeling ambitious make sure and follow mtnhorse's example and DO NOT paint the heat exchangers!
This will be a great thread Eric. Addressing the snow-sticktion issue the right way is cool to see. By keeping that extra weight off will make a big difference. Plus it will look very cool too!
In regards to the FTX kit, I too have installed a half-dozen or so of them. VERY simple install and well worth the $125. Have "field tested" the strength it provides this season a few times (not on purpose ), it performed as advertised. IMHO, this kit is a MUST for every pro out there, cheap insurance.
In regards to the FTX kit, I too have installed a half-dozen or so of them. VERY simple install and well worth the $125. Have "field tested" the strength it provides this season a few times (not on purpose ), it performed as advertised. IMHO, this kit is a MUST for every pro out there, cheap insurance.
FTX tunnel gussets
A bit off topic but for those who have installed the FTX tunnel gussets, do you think they would install OK and provide sufficient tunnel protection with a tunnel dump exhaust? I know the VA one has a cut out to accomodate this but I am not interested in having to re&re my drive plate.
A bit off topic but for those who have installed the FTX tunnel gussets, do you think they would install OK and provide sufficient tunnel protection with a tunnel dump exhaust? I know the VA one has a cut out to accomodate this but I am not interested in having to re&re my drive plate.
BD and FTX
Looks to me like the FTX kit will fit with the BD tunnel-dump muffler.
The Exhaust hole for the BD tunnel dump looks well above the plate... Use the existing holes and rivets for reference.
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Looks to me like the FTX kit will fit with the BD tunnel-dump muffler.
The Exhaust hole for the BD tunnel dump looks well above the plate... Use the existing holes and rivets for reference.
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CHAINCASE INSTALL... FUTURE PROOF
NEXT ITEMS... CHAINCASE AND RUNNING BOARD INSTALL
I wanted the freedom to run 7 tooth drivers in the future. So... a small mod to the chaincase was in order... FasTrax again to the rescue.
Curt cuts a small piece out of the chaincase on the lower "sump" and welds in a piece of angle... minimal impact on the sump volume.
The reason: a smaller driver, 7 tooth compared to an 8 tooth, brings the inside of the track into contact with the chaincase at the front.
The small piece is removed to allow the track to clear the chaincase.
Before you ask/comment... YES... I paid for it... and would again...nice work Curt!
Note: this mod is NOT needed on QuickDrive equipped PRO RMK's
I bonded the chaincase on, according to instructions, with the recommended LORD 406GB adhesive.
Here is a link to the Lord Kits that I've arranged a good deal for our readers.
CLICK HERE
I used the inexpensive caulking gun adapters..easy to use... NOTE: Get at least 3 extra mixing tips per cartridge.. as they are useless after 5 minutes
After the adhesive sets up... I sealed the gaps where ice can get a foothold in that area with some black silicone sealer... messy, I know.
Here is the FTX mod to the backside.
Removal and Install instructions
Components of the Lord 406 adhesive for caulk gun use
Assembled in the caulk gun ready to use
Tunnel prepped for bonding.
Installed Chaincase... I wanted to show the bonding process...but no camera man... and this stuff sets up fast.
All in all... an easy process... not messy.. but a little smelly!
Those of you that have had your dental work glued back in your head will recognize the smell.
.
NEXT ITEMS... CHAINCASE AND RUNNING BOARD INSTALL
I wanted the freedom to run 7 tooth drivers in the future. So... a small mod to the chaincase was in order... FasTrax again to the rescue.
Curt cuts a small piece out of the chaincase on the lower "sump" and welds in a piece of angle... minimal impact on the sump volume.
The reason: a smaller driver, 7 tooth compared to an 8 tooth, brings the inside of the track into contact with the chaincase at the front.
The small piece is removed to allow the track to clear the chaincase.
Before you ask/comment... YES... I paid for it... and would again...nice work Curt!
Note: this mod is NOT needed on QuickDrive equipped PRO RMK's
I bonded the chaincase on, according to instructions, with the recommended LORD 406GB adhesive.
Here is a link to the Lord Kits that I've arranged a good deal for our readers.
CLICK HERE
I used the inexpensive caulking gun adapters..easy to use... NOTE: Get at least 3 extra mixing tips per cartridge.. as they are useless after 5 minutes
After the adhesive sets up... I sealed the gaps where ice can get a foothold in that area with some black silicone sealer... messy, I know.
Here is the FTX mod to the backside.
Removal and Install instructions
Components of the Lord 406 adhesive for caulk gun use
Assembled in the caulk gun ready to use
Tunnel prepped for bonding.
Installed Chaincase... I wanted to show the bonding process...but no camera man... and this stuff sets up fast.
All in all... an easy process... not messy.. but a little smelly!
Those of you that have had your dental work glued back in your head will recognize the smell.
.
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BURANDT BOARD INSTALL
I decide to go with the
"Burandt Board" Running boards. They are a bit stronger without adding much weight. Plus, they come black coated already. They are noticeably stiffer than the stock-boards.
I was able to sell my stock boards and only need add a little to the kitty for the upgrade!
CLICK HERE FOR LINK TO BURANDT BOARDS
Photo: Criticalsled.com
I wanted to coat the bare aluminum ends of the boards so that Ice/snow will not stick... as well as giving it a bit of a simple custom color layout.
Also.. all of the PowderTrac running boards have sharp corners on the outer edge of the running board that tears up pants/covers/hands... so all of those were de-burred and smoothed with some sandpaper. A bit of ScotchBrite (maroon) in the areas to be painted and some more de-greaser/self etch primer on the bare spots.
Then..
Splash O Color to liven things up... and be seen when I'm stuck
Color Code for the Paint
The color code is a good match for the Indy-Red variant used in the recent PRO RMK's/RMK's.
Boards installed... I bonded them on at the tunnel-rivet-line with LORD 406GB as well. You can see in the painted tunnel pic on the previous page that I left the strip under the running board abraded bare aluminum...
Masked it off as well as cleaned the paint from the bottom side of the mating area on the running board.
Not much time to take photos and rivet at the same time.. plus I didn't want that goop on my camera! This stuff sets up in about 5 or 6 minutes so you don't have much time.
The "GB" part of the product name means "Glass Bead"... which refers to the micro beads of glass that are there to keep optimum bond-line thickness and not get too much squeeze-out when riveting.
I believe that this bonding, in conjunction with the tunnel braces, will help further in resisting buckling in the trouble spots.
From the bottom side...a good wipe-down with a denatured alcohol soaked rag makes short order of any mess left.
That's it for today folks... time for bed.
.
I decide to go with the
I was able to sell my stock boards and only need add a little to the kitty for the upgrade!
CLICK HERE FOR LINK TO BURANDT BOARDS
Photo: Criticalsled.com
I wanted to coat the bare aluminum ends of the boards so that Ice/snow will not stick... as well as giving it a bit of a simple custom color layout.
Also.. all of the PowderTrac running boards have sharp corners on the outer edge of the running board that tears up pants/covers/hands... so all of those were de-burred and smoothed with some sandpaper. A bit of ScotchBrite (maroon) in the areas to be painted and some more de-greaser/self etch primer on the bare spots.
Then..
Splash O Color to liven things up... and be seen when I'm stuck
Color Code for the Paint
The color code is a good match for the Indy-Red variant used in the recent PRO RMK's/RMK's.
Boards installed... I bonded them on at the tunnel-rivet-line with LORD 406GB as well. You can see in the painted tunnel pic on the previous page that I left the strip under the running board abraded bare aluminum...
Masked it off as well as cleaned the paint from the bottom side of the mating area on the running board.
Not much time to take photos and rivet at the same time.. plus I didn't want that goop on my camera! This stuff sets up in about 5 or 6 minutes so you don't have much time.
The "GB" part of the product name means "Glass Bead"... which refers to the micro beads of glass that are there to keep optimum bond-line thickness and not get too much squeeze-out when riveting.
I believe that this bonding, in conjunction with the tunnel braces, will help further in resisting buckling in the trouble spots.
From the bottom side...a good wipe-down with a denatured alcohol soaked rag makes short order of any mess left.
That's it for today folks... time for bed.
.
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M
maxitout77
Well-known member
Subscribed! If I didn't bend my tunnel to the point of cracking I would be doing a similar build. Excellent work.
This is funny....when I talked to you about doing this to my Dragon a few years back, you talked me out of it saying that's way to much work....
Now you're doing the same thing....LOL...
Nice job buddy....you're knocking it out of the park!!!!
BTW...I'm guessing you got the shop moved????
Now you're doing the same thing....LOL...
Nice job buddy....you're knocking it out of the park!!!!
BTW...I'm guessing you got the shop moved????
Yea.... I know... maybe I'll finish up that 900-RAW in the garage while I'm at it too!
Thanks buddy!!
Thanks buddy!!
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Looking good Eric and curious to see the rest of the build. I think it would bebest if you bring her out here next December for a 2nd opinion on the final project 
Looking good Eric and curious to see the rest of the build. I think it would bebest if you bring her out here next December for a 2nd opinion on the final project
how bout you meet him in the middle and we can all go ride? Than tunnel is a thing of beauty!
Serious question: Did you consider cutting the exchangers in the tunnel about half way back and welding the cross bar across? Like an arctic cat? One of my biggest complaints on the pro is the build up of slush and ice on top of the tunnel behind the seat. With the extra front mounted exchanger you could get away with this I think...
R
rmscustom
Well-known member
How much strength would you lose doing that? The cats are weak because of it... I suppose you could add some bracing there to help.
PLAQUE BUILD UP.
Thank you.
It didn't cross my mind Phatty.
I wasn't into that much surgery on the chassis... and like all the cooling I can get.
Question back...Sincerely... Does your sled have a tunnel wrap on top of the tunnel? Where are you seeing the ice forms the most?
One of the things that the Cat has going for it is a completely smooth tunnel top.. not really any place for ice to get a "foot hold" there.
The fact that there is the t-slot, a center panel with wire conduit and rivets, and exposed seat support all can contribute to snow sticking.
The cat does not have all of that hardware going on back there.
The cat tunnel is not heated back there ... so the slush cant start and build an iceburg.
I think that the coated tunnel and running boards and ends will help snow and Ice to slide off well.
I got a kick out of this video from Yamaha... AND... what it shows.
Although the info is a little inaccurate with the the MTX w/162" and the other at 155"... and the aftermarket turbo...plus, they are weighing the Pro at Troys shop with some snow on the skid.... The yami looks bone dry/warm.
It will be interesting to see how this test will work on the 2015's with coated Rails/running boards/tunnel sides.
The video DOES show well where the ice/snow gathers on the PRO.
The theme of this video is ironic in comparison to a conversation I had with Polaris factory personnel at the Puyallup show in 2010... When I asked about all the areas where snow and Ice built up and coatings the answer from them was "Showroom weight is what sells our sleds"... Looks like they are paying attention to the "whole picture", now.
Artic Cat Cooler from 2014 M8000 that Phatty is talking about
Thank you.
It didn't cross my mind Phatty.
I wasn't into that much surgery on the chassis... and like all the cooling I can get.
Question back...Sincerely... Does your sled have a tunnel wrap on top of the tunnel? Where are you seeing the ice forms the most?
One of the things that the Cat has going for it is a completely smooth tunnel top.. not really any place for ice to get a "foot hold" there.
The fact that there is the t-slot, a center panel with wire conduit and rivets, and exposed seat support all can contribute to snow sticking.
The cat does not have all of that hardware going on back there.
The cat tunnel is not heated back there ... so the slush cant start and build an iceburg.
I think that the coated tunnel and running boards and ends will help snow and Ice to slide off well.
I got a kick out of this video from Yamaha... AND... what it shows.
Although the info is a little inaccurate with the the MTX w/162" and the other at 155"... and the aftermarket turbo...plus, they are weighing the Pro at Troys shop with some snow on the skid.... The yami looks bone dry/warm.
It will be interesting to see how this test will work on the 2015's with coated Rails/running boards/tunnel sides.
The video DOES show well where the ice/snow gathers on the PRO.
The theme of this video is ironic in comparison to a conversation I had with Polaris factory personnel at the Puyallup show in 2010... When I asked about all the areas where snow and Ice built up and coatings the answer from them was "Showroom weight is what sells our sleds"... Looks like they are paying attention to the "whole picture", now.
Artic Cat Cooler from 2014 M8000 that Phatty is talking about
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