I had my 09 Assault with Carl's/Struthers full cylinder/case porting, head cut (30%) ECU re-flash, SLP Twin Pipes and the new Camo Extreme 15" X 146" X 2.5" out for its maiden voyage, all I can say is WOW. This thing rips, I was pulling 8600 at 6000 feet with 64 gram BB weights(2G heavier than Jacks Recommendations), lime green primary, 64/42.46 helix w/delrins and spacer washer to shorten initial angle and raise pre-load a little, a little higher than target but I will bring it down by loading it a little with the other cut on the helix (64/44 .46). I could hold my hand to either clutch after a long pull. These guys do phenomenal work and I give my recommendations to anyone to use their set-ups.
Big thanks to Chris and Jack at Carl's for getting me set-up and answering all my questions!!
A couple of tips,
Flip the ex-valve solenoid for better clearance (T15 Torx)
Trim out the opening at the air plenum/air horn, I just used a razor knife after I had it riveted
Pull the engine instead of the jug, that way you can slot your motor straps for allignment as well as not have to worry about getting junk in the motor, and it will take less time
Buy a roll of reflective tape, and use as much as you can in conjunction with SLPs awesome fiber heat tape
Be careful when you trim the shock tower, if you get it right you will not have to use silicone and you will have a nice little heat sink that is exposed to snow spray all the time helping heat issues where the support bracked sits on the fender
Getting the glue warm from the backside helps remove the foam
For anyone who is drilling holes in the air box, use a torch to hot up a thinwalled pipe or your holesaw, sink it through the shelf and voila, a nice clean hole with no shavings in the box
I sealed the air box with gorrilla tape, helps keep the belt dust and other various things that tend to get in there out
Big thanks to Chris and Jack at Carl's for getting me set-up and answering all my questions!!
A couple of tips,
Flip the ex-valve solenoid for better clearance (T15 Torx)
Trim out the opening at the air plenum/air horn, I just used a razor knife after I had it riveted
Pull the engine instead of the jug, that way you can slot your motor straps for allignment as well as not have to worry about getting junk in the motor, and it will take less time
Buy a roll of reflective tape, and use as much as you can in conjunction with SLPs awesome fiber heat tape
Be careful when you trim the shock tower, if you get it right you will not have to use silicone and you will have a nice little heat sink that is exposed to snow spray all the time helping heat issues where the support bracked sits on the fender
Getting the glue warm from the backside helps remove the foam
For anyone who is drilling holes in the air box, use a torch to hot up a thinwalled pipe or your holesaw, sink it through the shelf and voila, a nice clean hole with no shavings in the box
I sealed the air box with gorrilla tape, helps keep the belt dust and other various things that tend to get in there out
![Sled018.jpg](http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp185/swcb20/Sled018.jpg)
![Sled016.jpg](http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp185/swcb20/Sled016.jpg)
![Sled012.jpg](http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp185/swcb20/Sled012.jpg)
![Sled017.jpg](http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp185/swcb20/Sled017.jpg)
![Sled015.jpg](http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp185/swcb20/Sled015.jpg)
![Sled014.jpg](http://i410.photobucket.com/albums/pp185/swcb20/Sled014.jpg)
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