Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Tether Install Step-by-Step With Pics

SaberKitty

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Here's an improvement on the confusing factory installation instructions for the Arctic Cat 5639-859 Kit, Tether '12+ 800

Package
DSC01631.JPG


DSC01633.JPG


Contents
DSC01589.JPG


Step 1. Remove both side panels
Step 2. Disconnect the hood harness
Step 3. Remove the four torx screws holding the upper hood
Step 4. Remove the hood
Step 5. Remove the torx screw at the rear of the seat (toss it in the steel recycle bin)
Step 6. Remove the seat
Step 7. With the seat removed, turn the quarter-turn fasterner on either side of the cowl panel and remove it
Step 8. Remove the belt (either by hand turning the helix to open the sheaves or by threading in the secondary bolt with the big washer in the 2012 toolkit)
DSC01593.JPG


Step 9. With the belt removed, unthread the bolt on the secondary and remove the clutch.
DSC01594.JPG


Step 10. This is the handlebar harness connector that we're after
DSC01590a.jpg


Step 11. Cut the two tie-wraps securing the harness to the aluminum tube and separate the connector by pressing on the tab (smaller circle in pic)
DSC01591a.JPG


Step 12. Connector unplugged
DSC01598.JPG


Step 13. Using a small flatblade screwdriver, insert it into the small slot on the white part of the connector and gently pry the white portion out about an 1/8" (3-mm) past the outer black housing.
DSC01599.JPG


DSC01602.JPG


Step 14. Next tool we'll make from a large 1.75" (47-mm) paper clip
DSC01607.JPG


Step 15. Bend the outer leg out to ninety degrees and with a Sharpie, mark off 9/16" (14-mm) on the paperclip (not necessary but good for reference on the following steps)
DSC01606.JPG


Step 16. With the connector position as shown (smooth edge on top, protrusion pointing down) start to insert the paperclip into the upper left pin location. Seating the paperclip to a depth of 9/16" (14-mm) while gently tugging on the black wire with the blue stripe will release the wire.
DSC01605.JPG


Step 17. Move over one spot to the right in the connector and insert the paperclip.
DSC01608.JPG


Step 18. Push the paperclip in 9/16" (14-mm) and pull on the purple wire with red stripe and remove the wire from the connector
DSC01610.JPG


Step 19. On the harness connector that came in the tether kit, press the tab down and unplug the connector
DSC01634a.JPG


DSC01635.JPG


Step 20. Similar to the handlebar harness, use the same small screwdriver, insert the blade into the small slot on the white part of the connector and gently pry the white portion out part way
DSC01636.JPG


Step 21. Insert the new connector's (shown in step above) purple/red wire into the handlebar harness connector where the original factory purple/red wire was removed. Note: On the new wire, make sure the locking tab on the silver metal female socket is positioned on the same side as the flat side of the big plastic handlebar connector. Push the wire in until it audibly clicks
DSC01612.JPG


Step 22. Close-up of locking tab in previous step
DSC01613a.JPG


Step 23. Next, repeat the above steps by inserting the black wire with blue stripe from the new connector into the last open spot on the factory handlebar harness connector. Ensure the locking tab is in the same orientation as mentioned in the previous step
DSC01614.JPG


Step 24. Now that the new connector is plugged into the original factory handlebar harness connector, insert the original purple/red wire into the open spot on the new connector (refer to yellow squiggly arrows)
DSC01619a.JPG


Step 25. Note - Exactly the same locking tab orientation rule applies - little tab out towards the flat side of the connector (purple/red shown). Push purple/red wire in until it audibly clicks
DSC01620.JPG


Step 26. Repeat for the black/blue wire
DSC01627.JPG


Step 27. Now that all the wires are seated, press in and seat the white part of both connectors (handlebar harness shown pressed in and new connector shown out and needing to be pressed in)
DSC01628.JPG


Step 28. Both connectors with white portions pressed in
DSC01629.JPG


Step 29. Ready for the next step
DSC01637.JPG


Step 30. Remove the two torx screws retaining the plastic console surround
DSC01639.JPG


Step 31. Remove the gas cap and unthread the retaining ring nut
DSC01640.JPG


Step 32. On the left underside of the console, unplug the reverse beeper. Note: The red/blue wire is (+) and the purple/black wire is (-)
DSC01641.JPG


Step 33. Console on the work bench
DSC01643.JPG
''

Step 34. Draw a line parallel to the edge that is offset 7/8" (22-mm). Next, measure from the center of the torx screw hole out 1-3/4" (44.5-mm) and mark where it intersects the 7/8" (22-mm) offset line.
DSC01644.JPG


Step 35. Close-up
DSC01645.JPG


Step 36. Use a 1/2" (13-mm) drill bit to drill the hole for the tether switch
DSC01646.JPG


Step 37. Drilled hole
DSC01648.JPG


Step 38. Remove the masking tape
DSC01651.JPG


Step 39. Unthread the cover from the tether switch
DSC01647.JPG


Step 40. Thread the switch into the backside of the console
DSC01652.JPG


Step 41. Point the wiring out towards the outside of the sled
DSC01655.JPG


Step 42. Place a 7/8" (22-mm) wrench on the switch
DSC01656.JPG


Step 43. Thread the black switch cover on by hand
DSC01657.JPG


Step 44. Tighten switch cover with a 3/4" (19-mm) socket
DSC01658.JPG


Installed
DSC01659.JPG


Step 45. Place console back into position on the sled, screw in the two torx screws and the fuel tank filler retaining ring and fuel cap.

Step 46. Next, from the switch in the console, route the wiring down past the radiator cap and plug it in to the mating 2-wire connector that was installed off the handlebar harness

Not sure if I did something wrong or didn't route the wires properly but my wiring was too short to plug in the 2-wire connector. Instead of troubleshooting the wire routing, I simply used a 2-wire extension (found at auto-parts stores) that I had on the shelf.
DSC01653.JPG


DSC01654.JPG


And the personalized finishing touch - Remove the clip from the tether
DSC01660.JPG


And install an Arctic Cat green carabiner for easier and quicker hook up to one's jacket ring
DSC01662.JPG



The carabiner nicely hooks on the brake lever for warming up the sled in the morning
DSC01663.JPG



Note: The photos are from my 2012 M800 Sno Pro with a December 2011 build date.
 
Last edited:
2010 Install

Are the wires on the 2010 M8 the same color as the 2012 wiring harness? looking to install on the 2010 and this was a great threah. Thanks for the info here.
 
NICE! Write up, would had gone this route if you put it up earlier :)

Just put in à universal tether and just spliced into the wire to the key because I put my tether on the hood and can then lift the hood of without pulling of any connectors:face-icon-small-hap
5a14e881538f2b094eeac33b72b6ed35_zps2e0fab6a.jpg


When are you guys gonna go metric? Stupid inches:jaw:
 
had something funny happen the other day... i installed my tether, started up my sled, but was in a hurry and didn't check if it actually killed the motor when pulled.

went for a ride, and for the most part of the day, my handlebar kill switch was working fine... but for the last hour or so, the kill switch was not killing so good. it would run on, but if i smacked it, or wiggled the bars back and forth it seemed to make contact (or break??). but then back at home when i unloaded, neither the kill switch or the tether would kill the motor. had to use the key switch, which did work.

i haven't had time to look into it, but an interesting symptom. dangerous one too.
 
had something funny happen the other day... i installed my tether, started up my sled, but was in a hurry and didn't check if it actually killed the motor when pulled.

went for a ride, and for the most part of the day, my handlebar kill switch was working fine... but for the last hour or so, the kill switch was not killing so good. it would run on, but if i smacked it, or wiggled the bars back and forth it seemed to make contact (or break??). but then back at home when i unloaded, neither the kill switch or the tether would kill the motor. had to use the key switch, which did work.

i haven't had time to look into it, but an interesting symptom. dangerous one too.

my kill switch and tether wouldnt work either when i first installed the tether kit. i took the connector from the tether kit side and bent the 4 pins slightly and now they make good connection and both switches work fine.
 
NICE! Write up, would had gone this route if you put it up earlier :)

Just put in à universal tether and just spliced into the wire to the key because I put my tether on the hood and can then lift the hood of without pulling of any connectors:face-icon-small-hap
5a14e881538f2b094eeac33b72b6ed35_zps2e0fab6a.jpg


When are you guys gonna go metric? Stupid inches:jaw:

That is where I put my tether and the wires were long enough. If you follow the instructions, the wires are real tight and I don't know if they are even long enough to work. I swear they print up these instructions and don't check if they even work.
 
I had to get an extension for mine, too. I mounted it according to instructions though, not on the lower part of the console, but up by the intake like the OP did.
 
i found lots of extra cable length by cutting more tyraps and pulling up the main harness. it looped back towards the tank.

thanks for the suggestions guys. i'll check that hood harness, and the new connector pins as soon as i get a chance.
 
i found lots of extra cable length by cutting more tyraps and pulling up the main harness. it looped back towards the tank.

thanks for the suggestions guys. i'll check that hood harness, and the new connector pins as soon as i get a chance.

Be careful pulling up that harness. When I did it, one of the connectors for the spark plug coils disconnected from the harness. Started my sled up and it was idling at 1000 RPMs throwing me a ECU code and a wrench on the speedo. Found the problem quickly, plugged it back in, ran like new.
 
My dealer installed my tether and it wasn't working,so I decided to take a look at what they did wrong and they didn't plug in the other two wires back into the tether harness. So it works now,but it's throwing a ecu-12 code,I took everything back apart and all the connections look O.K. so can anybody tell me what this code means or what the problem might be?
 
O.K. ya I pulled the white part of the main harness connector to far out,so maybe I need to re-check those wires. thanks!
 
So I ended up taking it back to my dealer and they found that one of the blue connectors to the coil was bad,I also showed them how the teather should be wired by taking a copy of the picture on here,they told me that was not what the directions say to do,so they called the factory and they did not know about wiring the teather that way either,said they would look into it,pretty crazy they designed this sled and don't know how to wire this teather!:face-icon-small-con
 
What puzzles me is the added complexity to the tether wiring. The old M was silly simple. An intern must have got this project.
 
Updated the original post with metric equivalents for our foreign friends. :beer;

Two oxymorons in one sentence. :face-icon-small-hap
 
Installed another tether kit today and initially struggled a bit getting the wires to release and with that, highly recommend the Sharpie trick in Step 15.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top