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Technical geeks...belt wear/width questions..

D

dub

Well-known member
Just wanted to see how many of you have checked belt widths from new to say after the first ride and so on... What is exceptable wear?

I have seen from brand new belt to 60 miles run up to .010 wear, would you all say this is normal wear? The belt does not appear to continue to diminish that excesivly over a short period of time, but may go to .015 in width loss.

Any others have input?
 
I was just hoping for some feedback as to what people see for initial wear?
 
Third belt starting to lose thread for me now in 600 km (350 miles)... anyone else having these problems?

Almost only tree riding, lots of snow and uphill... low speed and full throttle, but still... this is not acceptable at all.
 
i have wondered the same thing but i have never actually measured the belt width after it was brand new. i see lots of people posting the number of miles on the belt but i don't know how relevant that is (no offense intended to anyone) because riding style, aggressiveness, clutching, snow conditions, on trail/off trail use, etc varies from one person to the next so much. i would be happier than a pig in sh!t if i could get 500-600 miles out of a belt. at that point i would probably just replace it anyways b/c it would be worn out. once i get something to prevent snow being kicked onto the clutches i think i should be able to get these kind of mile out of a belt.
 
Yes, over the years I've ocassionally measured widths & lengths, used vs new, -.010 used, is the average width diff. Length (stretch) is on average 1/2 turn of belt deflection. Not counting an occassional grenade! Between brake dust, belt dust and EV solenoid vent smoke it can look a bit worse than it really is.
 
I think it it all in engagement of the belt..

Too soft.. lots of belt Wear!!

Hard Engagement Perfect..


In the Polaris Book it says.. lots of belt wear.. Engage belt harder!
 
Big difference in where you ride and how you ride. I can get 2000 miles on a belt easy trail riding the midwest and can't get 500 miles on a belt on the same sled in mountain riding. slow,snow and up hill equals lots of belt wear. Cool clutch is very important. I put side pane land shock tower vents on the clutch side and doubled belt life .
 
The clutches on the Pros are shimmed too wide from the factory, check your belt to sheave clearance and you will see this, notice also the engagement clunk from the primary (not the floated secondary, which also makes a small clunk)..this is your belt being slammed by the sheaves, causing excessive/premature wear.

Either shim your clutch into spec, or use a set of MTX weights which shim it perfectly into clearance with the fatter heel.
 
The clutches on the Pros are shimmed too wide from the factory, check your belt to sheave clearance and you will see this, notice also the engagement clunk from the primary (not the floated secondary, which also makes a small clunk)..this is your belt being slammed by the sheaves, causing excessive/premature wear.

Either shim your clutch into spec, or use a set of MTX weights which shim it perfectly into clearance with the fatter heel.
Spot on!!!

This week or next I plan to install a set of SLP MTX 71 gram weights & SLP blue pink primary spring on a stock 800 Rush that only turns 8000 rpm max.
What do you recomend in flat-land Wis at 1500 feet with stock pipe & later a Dyno Port pipe??? Later this year or next year I plan to install a Dyno Port pipe, will it lean out the still rich running non ethanol resistor set-up??? My 800 Rush runs too rich, cuts out at 7500 rpm max, then drops to 6500 rpm, with the 10% ethanol resistor installed???
This year or next year I plan to install a Dyno Port pipe, will it fit with the stock Polaris muffler?
Thanks for taking the time posting all of your info on clutching & Dyno Port pipe.
Ride Safe, try to get a little sleep, I see your early AM posts; Rich.
 
Spot on!!!

This week or next I plan to install a set of SLP MTX 71 gram weights & SLP blue pink primary spring on a stock 800 Rush that only turns 8000 rpm max.
What do you recomend in flat-land Wis at 1500 feet with stock pipe & later a Dyno Port pipe??? Later this year or next year I plan to install a Dyno Port pipe, will it lean out the still rich running non ethanol resistor set-up??? My 800 Rush runs too rich, cuts out at 7500 rpm max, then drops to 6500 rpm, with the 10% ethanol resistor installed???
This year or next year I plan to install a Dyno Port pipe, will it fit with the stock Polaris muffler?
Thanks for taking the time posting all of your info on clutching & Dyno Port pipe.
Ride Safe, try to get a little sleep, I see your early AM posts; Rich.

Rich- I am in Alaska so I am a couple hours behind the rest of you, hence what appears to be a early morning post to you is really just a 11-12pm post for me. Although I do work crazy hours, we are swamped. Thanks for your concern anyway :D

I would run the MTX 68g weights, not the 71g. This way you can adjust up if you need, you can not adjust down with the 71g obviously. Plenty of room to go up on the 68's if you need. You will probably end up with a 3g rivet in the tip with that primary spring combo, with no rivet in the heel.

The Dynoport pipe leans the motor out perfectly according to my testing this far. The dynoport pipe should fit with the stock pipe just fine. I'll keep posting my results and my info, I see no reason to hold this info back or try to make money off it like some others. If guys like what I have to say, they can say so, and if they want, order parts from us.

Take 'er easy
 
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