T- Nitro belt problems/ Any suggestions/Help

[Sleds R Fun]

I have a T Nitro stage 2 running anywhere from 15-18 #'s, track lenght 162. Generally ride around 3000-6000ft.
I have tryed many setups with no luck and usually pull the cords within 80 miles. (deep snow riding, 2ft+ deep)
Checked alignment-perfect as per shop manual
Primary has 14 rollers, dalton 78.5G weights
Secondary has Purple EPI set @ 2-0 / Shockwave all the way in.

I hear all these storys of how the Turbo's are good on belts, any truth to this?
Are many people running a Yamaha weight fully loaded?
What kind of tension are you guys running the secondary?

 

[m1000 man]

well iam running a boosted nytro 700km same belt

 

[Washy]

3000kms on original belt. I run a 45 degree helix with white yammy spring wound to 100 degrees. 14.5 rollers 8bu-00 loaded B-W-B primary spring.

 

[mtnmodviper]

3000kms on original belt. I run a 45 degree helix with white yammy spring wound to 100 degrees. 14.5 rollers 8bu-00 loaded B-W-B primary spring.

I run a similar setup, but with a Blue-Brown-Blue primary spring and a 47 degree helix. No belt problems yet at 14# and 6000'-9000'

 

[paulharris]

gear the chaincase down

 

[Sleds R Fun]

Thanks for the replys, hopefully there are more.
Geared down to 19-40.
Are there many people running 19-42?

 

[modsledr]

sounds like too much weight/not enough spring....not enough secondary spring or twist...

of course, it could just be a username conflict!!

 

[Sleds R Fun]

I'm getting my RPM even hitting the rev limiter every now and then.
Talk to me about twist on the secondary??

 

[dcturbo]

The higher twist will help with side pressure. Less slippage is better for belt life.

 

[modsledr]

I'm getting my RPM even hitting the rev limiter every now and then.
Talk to me about twist on the secondary??

If your getting your rpm's with the shockwave dialed all the way in, then i would say reduce your weight and dial in more helix angle. Too much weight and you're not going to backshift very well and will be slipping.

I have my weights set a little light, and use the helix to get my rpms for a given day/snow conditions. In other words, if I'm banging off the rev limiter because of light snow, I dial in more helix to hold the upshift.

You twist the secondary spring more to assist with backshifting.

 

[powdermuncher]

No one up here has any belt problems on Yamaha's except one guy---he does donuts all day long ---- he is good at it to wide open sometimes 3-4 turns . stops and watches the next guy do it let the belt cool down and superheat it again over and over again - these heat-cycles kill belts. Slow warm up and cool down is Key.
He got rid of every sled -- Polaris - Skidoo and now the Nyto turbo they all eat belts just the way he rides.

I am not saying this is your problem , just a observation about a unhappy Belt destroyer. He has spend more on belts the last few seasons than I have on gas. On the Skidoo he would sometimes do up to 3 a day.

 

[Sleds R Fun]

Thanks again for all the replys.Keep em comming.
I have tryed helixing up to bring the RPM down but then again belt doesn't seem to like it. Also to much helix' is hurting in the deep.

I have run a stiff secondary looking for backshift but all I get is a belt with cords out on both sides.

The secondary is also brand new!

Will be trying some different set up's this weekend and will keep you guys posted.

Anybody else with some thoughts!!!!!!!

 

[SLY]

Make sure you're not getting oil on your clutch. I did have one guy going through belts and his valve cover end plug was the culprit above the clutch. the only thing I see different with your setup than others is the weights.

 

[Sleds R Fun]

No one up here has any belt problems on Yamaha's except one guy---he does donuts all day long ---- he is good at it to wide open sometimes 3-4 turns . stops and watches the next guy do it let the belt cool down and superheat it again over and over again - these heat-cycles kill belts. Slow warm up and cool down is Key.
He got rid of every sled -- Polaris - Skidoo and now the Nyto turbo they all eat belts just the way he rides.

I am not saying this is your problem , just a observation about a unhappy Belt destroyer. He has spend more on belts the last few seasons than I have on gas. On the Skidoo he would sometimes do up to 3 a day.

Hey powdermuncher
I'm not sure if you know what your talking about or have your facts straight. Ski doo was ok on belts once it got figured out.
Polaris 900 over 600 miles per belt, the cat 1000 was untouchable ride hard all day. And to boot these sleds I owned worked extreamly well in the deep,especially the Cat.
Of course Its not the way I ride!!!!!! I have blown more belts than you perhaps because I do 2500 miles a year.
How do you ride????

 

[robertyoke]

i would look for the valve cover leaking oil if its a mcx kit.


also there is a small 10mm hole in the bulkhead/frame just below the driven clutch that in deep snow lets in some snow and will get on your clutches...plug that hole with a bolt or a plastic rivit or silicone.


i would also wash your new belts in very hot water and dish soap, then rinse in hot water...i did and i was amazed at the oil that came off it. it actually changed color, some belts seem to have more release oil than others.

 

[Thistledoo]

Make sure you're not getting oil on your clutch. I did have one guy going through belts and his valve cover end plug was the culprit above the clutch. the only thing I see different with your setup than others is the weights.

Or snow dust....have you got screen over the vents up above the clutch cover?? Also how old is the EPI spring....I tried a couple of them and they didnt seem to last....got soft IMO.....I'm now running the artic cat snow pro green spring...its a touch stiffer than the epi.

 

[Sleds R Fun]

Valve cover gasket not pushed in. Belts washed and flo-right over all vents + ducktape covering all seams or little holes. Clutches have also been emery clothed before each ride.
I have tryed the green cat spring but was thinking it was too stiff, I might have to give'er another try.
Thanks guys.

 

[snowy1]

I have had problems with the epi purple getting soft as well, try 3-3 on the epi, I think I will go to the sno pro green, you need all the belt pressure you can get. I have 1200 boosted miles on the same belt 18+ lbs. its all in the clutching and gearing .

 

[robertyoke]

Or snow dust....have you got screen over the vents up above the clutch cover?? Also how old is the EPI spring....I tried a couple of them and they didnt seem to last....got soft IMO.....I'm now running the artic cat snow pro green spring...its a touch stiffer than the epi.

i run that sp greeen spring in the kingcat, i tried it in the nytro and the first time i let off the throttle i almost superman over the handle bars. i went back to the purple spring.

 

[WOOD2]

Hey powdermuncher
I'm not sure if you know what your talking about or have your facts straight. Ski doo was ok on belts once it got figured out.
Polaris 900 over 600 miles per belt, the cat 1000 was untouchable ride hard all day. And to boot these sleds I owned worked extreamly well in the deep,especially the Cat.
Of course Its not the way I ride!!!!!! I have blown more belts than you perhaps because I do 2500 miles a year.
How do you ride????

The guy is just trying to help! Obviously YOU need it. LOL!