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switching from polaris

PaulAnd

Well-known member
Premium Member
Hope you guys can help me... thinking of going to a 2011 mtx 162 turbo, my current sled is a 2010 assault 146, I like assault chassis because it lays over nicely, does the tree's well, climbs ok for the newb that I am... I ride 0-3k most of the season with a trip out west 5-11k once a year.
Can I ride the MTX turbo 0-3k on pump gas?
Will I get used to the steering shaft position?
I also weight 180lbs will I have enough leverage to muscle it trough the tree's?
Will I get to places far beyond my experience level and need a helicoptor ride home??
I want a reliable sled I think the non turbo version would be lacking... oh.. whats the fuel range of the MTX turbo @ 5-10k.
Thanks again for any input
 
You gotta love the shameless plug Scott. In my opinion no you will not get used to the steering. Get OFT's relocator and you will thank yourself for it every time you ride. The only time I think you will worry about the weight issue is when the snow is pretty set up. Handles like a dream otherwise.

If you put the Skinz front end on there it will really handle well. I think just as well as your RMK does, not as well as a Pro though.

The Yamaha turbo is not set up for low elevation. I think you would be pushing your luck running one of the factory turbos on pump gas.

Fuel range depends on how you ride. I tend to ride hard and have the hammer down most of the time and I go through a tank about as fast as the two stroke guys will. Had an epic snow day a couple weeks back and rode with some guys who pushed me hard and we all got stuck only once or twice. We all went through a tank of fuel in three hours of riding.
 
I am going to disagree with the previous post on the boost at low elevation. I am no expert by any means, but on my MCX 180 kit it compensates the boost for elevation. Higher elevation = higher boost. I ride mine from around 2000' up to 8000' on 91 octane fuel. The only thing that changes is the clutching. At low elevation it will hit the rev limiter if you have your high altitude clutch weights in as with anything. I'm 160lbs and after a couple trips out west I'm finally starting to figure out how to ride this machine in the trees, takes some getting used to and some suspension tweaking but it can be done. The only time I find this machine heavier than the others is when it's stuck. I also average around 100km - 120km boondocking at elevation. Also a must have is the OFT Roll over valve.
 
the first mod has to be an oft relocater, followed by a rollover valve. but i cant see riding these sleds without the relocater
 
C-ruf the MCX is the only exception to that rule. It has the altitude compensation on it and will take care of that all by itself. All the other turbo kits will be running a lot of boost at lower elevations if they are running 8-10 at higher elevation. When he said the MTX turbo I assumed he was referring to the factory unit which does not have altitude compensation on it.
 
Only you will know what you like but I can tell you this, in the last two weekends I have had 2 different Pro riders ride my 09 MTX and they were both very impressed. The first rider put it on its side right away because he had heard they were so heavy and when he gave it a jerk it came all the way over. I have a MCX 180 kit, Timbersled rear suspension, Skinz front end, OFT steering post, roll over valve, etc. It is great to head out and fill up with gas, check the oil and ride. No belt issues, no boost control tinkering, just fun. Spend my time in the summer checking everything out so I can ride all winter. :face-icon-small-coo
 
The 2011 Mtx i'm looking at has dealer installed push kit they are a western yami dealer so the set-up should be good, I was told by the dealer that at low altitude it would need race fuel and clutch changes.. I was just hoping you guys would tell me there was a pump gas solution, still it would be nice to have an AV fuel tank on my trailer :)
 
For the MPI turbo Kit (see page #9 at the link below)

8. Intended boost values are 4 to 5 PSI at WOT at Sea Level and 7 PSI at or above 10,000 feet.

No clutching specs given for sea level - the install guide says to contact dealer (#10 on page 9).


http://www.mountainperformance.com/Files/Download/mtn-1000_nytro_turbo_small.pdf


Send a PM to PaulAris on this forum and ask him about his Push setup - he has a boost controller installed that would probably work perfect for you. Turn it down to 4-5 lbs when you run it at lower elevations? Have you tried calling Push?
 
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Great info guys, on mpi's chart 0-3k 0-4 psi boost 91octane, If it det's then 50/50 mix. I think 50/50 would be ok for me. My riding buddies are telling me I cant use the 162 for trail riding?? With scratchers, hyperfax, extra wheels? should be ok? I have a lake racer but I always gravitate to the assault.
 
Great info guys, on mpi's chart 0-3k 0-4 psi boost 91octane, If it det's then 50/50 mix. I think 50/50 would be ok for me. My riding buddies are telling me I cant use the 162 for trail riding?? With scratchers, hyperfax, extra wheels? should be ok? I have a lake racer but I always gravitate to the assault.

It will be fine, its not so much the length its the lugs, and i drive my 2.4" polaris track around the flats. No missing lugs yet, run the scratchers if your temps get up there. People say you cant run them fast but ive ran mine 90-92 mph around the lakes and fields with it with no issues.
 
threads like this make me laugh if your serious just do it you ride the way you ride and everyone else rides the way they ride any machine can get you where you shouldnt be but your still the one steering it there I have had my Nytro since 07 its been a long time coming at first i didnt care for it was hard to ride at first thought i had made a big mistake from a 92 phazer to this big pig then she started getting her curves first gII skis then pwdr lites turbo w10+lbs and next skins package front end, boards, rear bumper , vent kit, AC skid, mpi steering post and risers, roll over kit, roest skid plate, protaper bars, 21 top gear and now shes my lilredboostedrocket and im very pleased my blood is blue inside but red outside all sleds are pretty much the same its just what you do with them that make them better so YOU BETTER BE FAST OR BE LAST:rockon:
 
Get r done!!!

You won't regret it. I ride my front mount at 1000 ft to the peaks. I've run low snow and no real probs. Scratchers are a must anywhere depending on snow conditions.

I don't know the kit you are looking at but a boost controller is a nice option if you are changing elevations and fuel. I kick mine down to 10 lbs at low elevation (I have a head shim) and bump it up to 15 lbs in the mountains.

I'm a believer in good fuel and have a drum in my trailer always, so I always run some good stuff. It's way cheaper than motor work after something fails.

Clutching is an issue to an extent but again if it is set up for higher elevation at 15 lbs it is close enough at low elevations at 10 lbs. One can always improve anything but I ride a lot more these days higher up than down low so I haven't bothered messing with clutching.

Keep your Assault, you may find you want to ride it in low snow conditions or spring conditions. It's a great spare sled and awesome when the Yammy day was yesterday.

BTW... you have 40 lbs on me and I manage to ride mine just fine. 1st season I wondered what I did but with some tweeking and learning I now love it. Nothing like a boosted Yammy!!!
 
I would suggest riding one if you haven't yet. Ride it in ALL snow conditions if you can. I'm not bashing here as I still own a boosted Apex and had a TNytro @15lbs.

I've spent a lot of time and money the last 4 years on boosted Yammies riding both flatland and mountain riding just to come back full circle to the 2 strokes. There are pros and cons to both obviously, but I can tell you from my experience, I work a lot less on the 2 strokes and just plain have more fun on them. Especially in poor snow conditions. And not to stereotype the Yammies, but you can't keep slides on a 153" or longer if you're ditch banging or river running on hard pack.

Just saying keep in mind all the riding you will do and not just think about the big power on the hills.
 
im not sure what you mean by you cant keep slides on em. get some scratchers and change once a season and you will be good to go. and by the way you make it sound you went back to 2 strokes because you had to change your slides more often?
 
im not sure what you mean by you cant keep slides on em. get some scratchers and change once a season and you will be good to go. and by the way you make it sound you went back to 2 strokes because you had to change your slides more often?


Always ran scratchers and low track tension, removed idlers, added idlers etc. My Nytro was a bit better but I got sick of always having to dip into fresh snow every few minutes. The Yammies wear excessively. Plain and simple.

I didn't leave Yamaha because of slide wear though. For me it was the weight issue. Yes they are fun and will do what you want from them but I found myself working so much harder and much more tired at the end of the day, especially multiple day trips in the mountains. And for reference I'm 6'3", 220 lbs and an aggressive rider.

And not to start up a trees vs hills thread, but we all know the 4's aren't as nimble in the tight stuff. Yes, they will get it done, but it's basic physics, they weigh much more and you feel it.

All I'm saying is you have to weigh both the pros and the cons. Go spend some quality time on one before you lay down the big bucks, and enjoy whatever you choose!
 
I didn't leave Yamaha because of slide wear though. For me it was the weight issue. Yes they are fun and will do what you want from them but I found myself working so much harder and much more tired at the end of the day, especially multiple day trips in the mountains. And for reference I'm 6'3", 220 lbs and an aggressive rider.

And not to start up a trees vs hills thread, but we all know the 4's aren't as nimble in the tight stuff. Yes, they will get it done, but it's basic physics, they weigh much more and you feel it.

All I'm saying is you have to weigh both the pros and the cons. Go spend some quality time on one before you lay down the big bucks, and enjoy whatever you choose!

I respect your decision to change rides based on what you have pointed out. However, there were a lot of people who built chute slaying Nytros and never paid attention to how to make them handle in the tight stuff. I'm curious what mods you did to your Nytro to improve its handling characteristics?

My 2010 162" Nytro weighs #560 wet and ready to ride. I have the Skinz Concept front end and a Timbersled Mountain Tamer rear skid and I absolutely love how nimble it is.

The Nytro is a sub-par sled as delivered but can easily be transformed into a very well rounded mountain sled.
 
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I ran an 09 MTX basically stock with the exception of a steering relocation kit and riser, and turbo of course.
 
I respect your decision to change rides based on what you have pointed out. However, there were a lot of people who built chute slaying Nytros and never paid attention to how to make them handle in the tight stuff. I'm curious what mods you did to your Nytro to improve its handling characteristics?

My 2010 162" Nytro weighs #560 wet and ready to ride. I have the Skinz Concept front end and a Timbersled Mountain Tamer rear skid and I absolutely love how nimble it is.

The Nytro is a sub-par sled as delivered but can easily be transformed into a very well rounded mountain sled.

Thanks for the info. I think a lot of people forget how much $ and parts they have invested in their own sled besides just being boosted in order for it to perform like it does.

I'm not saying anyone would purposely leave out information in order to say one sled is better than another, but if aftermarket a arms, skis, steering relocation and rear skid are needed to make this sled competitive, we should also make mention of this to new guys coming into the Yamaha brand. These parts are all over and above the cost of the sled and turbo kit.
 
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