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Switch Relocation Project COMPLETE!!

ultrasks700

Well-known member
Premium Member
I've owned several M-series sleds now and have always liked the handlebar set up's from the factory. Sure they need a little tweaking here and there but overall they do the job well. However, on the 07-up sleds the switch clusters are a PITA. they limit the amount of grip you have, take up space, and as far as the handwarmer switches go, they always seem to get repositioned. Along with that I find the grips are "plasticy" and the handwarmers are generally weak(in the north east it gets cold)
Time for a make over!

I ordered the following:
3 3-position switches from WPS (off amazon)
Powermadd throttle block
ODI 8" grips
"Kawasaki style" kill switch(for the reverse)
1/64 gasket material from Autozone($1.99)

So here it is stock:
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Handlebars stripped, old grips removed, heater elements CAREFULLY removed:
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Applied gasket material using spray adhesive, ive heard if you use anything thicker it will enlarge the grip which I didn't want. Autozone sells it 1.99$ a sheet:
20150108_110110_zps9alxigjy.jpg


Heating elements reinstalled and ODI grips are on. Holly crap using an airhose make those grips go on like butter!
20150108_113536_zpsigo6gfgp.jpg


Switches wired up, if you look at the wiring schematics its pretty straight forward, didn't give me much troubles and I am NO means an electrical guru. Whats cool too is the High/low beam switch also has an OFF position if I ever wanna go stealth:face-icon-small-win
IMG_20150109_061105_zpsrfvb8a2h.jpg


AND here she is all finished up. Powermadd throttle block used to replace the stock bulky one, and I used the Kawasaki kill switch on the left side as the new reverse switch. I do not have a kill switch yet, my plan is to get the "slide style" sno-pro one at some point, in the mean time ill use the key. KEEP IN MIND this set up disables the throttle safety switch, so a tether is a must!(had one installed before)
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Took it for a spin last night, love the way it feels, it was 10 degrees out and the grips put out way more heat then before. I have a lot more room and am very pleased with it. One more shot of the finished product:
20150108_164216_zpszugyzfyy.jpg
 
Thanks! its really not very hard to do at all, might have 50$ tied up into it. I was going to go with some aftermarket bars but I would of had to spend about 400$ with all the adapters and all the other BS.
 
Looks good! I just got a switch for my headlights! I'm going to mount it where your tether is located.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So I did it. I bought the bar insulators from WPS, I have really big hands and decided to give them a whirl but had to buy more gasket board material to span the extra 2-3 inches that those ODI grips go. Also had to cut the throttle side grip down. It just went too far into the bar. I found the 3 position toggles on Amazon WITH GROUND wire and waterproof cover for a good deal. I made sure to label EVERYTHING as I pulled it apart and put colored zip ties to keep my wiring organized as I only had 3 colors of new wire. I love the feel of the grips, I'll get them on snow this weekend, we just got puked on here in central Utah. My sled is an 09 M8 with a twisted pg turbo. So the on off toggle switch is to clear the ecu for the temp sensor. I bought the RSI billet reverse switch, a whole $20, on clearance as compared to $53 for the Fly billet switch... works awesome. One touch, and I'm in reverse, I don't have to hold it in like I did on the stock button. I only have one set of lights, that's how the guy had it when I bought it so I just bought a simple led toggle for that. Along with the entire tear down of the sled and beefing everything up as I put it back together, I'm stoked to get it on the snow and pin it.

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Looks Good man! I actually almost bought those same switches off amazon. I wish the sled came like this stock. I've put a couple hundred miles on my set up and its made such a difference. I still don't have a kill switch, just been using the key, I like the simplicity but the reaching down everytime is getting old. So im think maybe the sno-pro or the rmk style kill switch will be on order soon.
 
Yeah. 09 and up are all engine reverse.

Thanks for the quick response. So are you saying that the electric reverse switches that rsi sell will work on a sled with motor reverse and not electric? Is that a plug and play kind of deal or is it pretty self explanatory? And how do you like it. Seems like they might be a little small for you to get at with gloves on. Thanks
 
Thanks for the quick response. So are you saying that the electric reverse switches that rsi sell will work on a sled with motor reverse and not electric? Is that a plug and play kind of deal or is it pretty self explanatory? And how do you like it. Seems like they might be a little small for you to get at with gloves on. Thanks
It's super simple. You don't have to push down hard at at. I'm assuming the rubber that you push has conductor foil on the back because you don't feel it push down. It feels like a dummy button. But one quick push and it's in. I don't know exactly how the mechanical is wired. But the electrical reverse is actually just run off the ground so it shorts to the ground and retards the timing. It may work the same way... I'm not sure. Get on Facebook, search Mountain Sled Tech group and post it in there. I admin the group. Someone will know if it works for mechanical and electrical.
 
Looking to do this just wondering if this messes with the idle switch in the factory throttle switch housing?
If you're going to run the powermadd throttle block, then yes. It's so much better though. It's called the throttle safety switch (TSS). They're kinda famous for messing up. This is the best set up in my opinion. Throttle block and run a tether. The TSS function is to make sure the throttle doesn't open up if you're not on the flapper (faulty cable, etc.) It has happened to me but not on this sled. Just install a tether. Should have one anyway.
 
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