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suspension set up

bootz1981

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Lifetime Membership
i have a 12 800 pro163, just drove it around home in ND for a little bit. thought it felt like it was ski heavy. so far i tightened the FTS 2 turns and loosend the RTS 2 turns. removed sway bar and with the front of the sled on a brick with no ski pressure the front springs are loose on the shock(never messed with the front). dont know a whole lot aboput suspention, am i on the right track. im 5'10" about 210 with gear
 
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Do some research on the sway bar out decision. Ride it bit and get a used to it before you give up on the sway bar. You will find a lot of opinions on that.We have a 2011 and 2012 PRO. Made a few adjustment to the shocks and kept the sway bars in. Learning the counter steer and throttle control is the key! :face-icon-small-coo
 
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i fixed my spelling for you, are you warm and fuzzy now

aboput suspention


Not quite there yet...


You are on the right track with the rear shock/spring adjustments though. Why did you remove the sway bar? Back in the Gen2 and Edge days it made an improvement, but it really isn't necessary on the new chassis.
 
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just thought it would be easier to lay over, no real reason y. thanx for your input!
 
aboput suspention
Not quite there yet...
You are on the right track with the rear shock/spring adjustments though. Why did you remove the sway bar? Back in the Gen2 and Edge days it made an improvement, but it really isn't necessary on the new chassis.

I am having the same issues and now am confused. I moved the bars back and lightend the front and rear preload. Still carved/ side hilled poorly so I asked the dealer. The dealer parts guy (rides allot on a PRO) told me today tighten all four up, take the sag all the way out if you can. Said the bar position does not matter. So I am sitting here thinking WTH do I do. It is easier to adjust in the shop with a jack than in the snow.
 
There are several posts on this so try searching next time. Long story short - a turn or two won't cut it on the FTS (front track shock). You need to crank her down until there's only about an inch of threads showing. A lot of dealers weren't setting them up this way (about half) so you had a lot of puzzled riders and a lot of happy riders. Adjust the front ski shocks and rear shock just so you don't bottom harshly. = DONE (and leave the stabilizer bar in; weak front springs require it for control even when sidehilling).

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
There are several posts on this so try searching next time. Long story short - a turn or two won't cut it on the FTS (front track shock). You need to crank her down until there's only about an inch of threads showing. A lot of dealers weren't setting them up this way (about half) so you had a lot of puzzled riders and a lot of happy riders. Adjust the front ski shocks and rear shock just so you don't bottom harshly. = DONE (and leave the stabilizer bar in; weak front springs require it for control even when sidehilling).

Have FUN!

G MAN
as some others have asked, what adjustments for the assault?
 
There are several posts on this so try searching next time. Long story short - a turn or two won't cut it on the FTS (front track shock). You need to crank her down until there's only about an inch of threads showing. Adjust the front ski shocks and rear shock just so you don't bottom harshly. = DONE (and leave the stabilizer bar in; weak front springs require it for control even when sidehilling).Have FUN!
G MAN

Not to Hijack but That is exactly what I did, cranked the FTS & RTS both down and moved the bars forward some. Eased the fronts a bit (18 threads showing) Rides better then it has and I can roll it again. I am thinking about getting the big boy spring, I go 230 and cary a bag/ gas most rides.
I did sink her in 4' of powder today going up a hill, hit a alder and that did me in. I also sank the rear in a creek, so much slush in the skid It would not turn. Belt now has a shinny spot, damn. I love getting stuck, that means the snow is crazy deep and it was still falling when we loaded.
 
Good desision on renoving swaybar. Now you say the font springs are loose, well tighten them up all the way. Your sled will be easier to tip on it's side and each ski will work independently so your sled will also ride alot smoother. Enjoy your sled.
 
Good desision on renoving swaybar. Now you say the font springs are loose, well tighten them up all the way. Your sled will be easier to tip on it's side and each ski will work independently so your sled will also ride alot smoother. Enjoy your sled.

I'm not sure about the impact of renoving a sway bar, but you may want to ride a PRO a while before deciding to REMOVE a sway bar.... I know... being a smart arse ..:face-icon-small-blu
 
Not to Hijack but That is exactly what I did, cranked the FTS & RTS both down and moved the bars forward some. Eased the fronts a bit (18 threads showing) Rides better then it has and I can roll it again. I am thinking about getting the big boy spring, I go 230 and cary a bag/ gas most rides.
I did sink her in 4' of powder today going up a hill, hit a alder and that did me in. I also sank the rear in a creek, so much slush in the skid It would not turn. Belt now has a shinny spot, damn. I love getting stuck, that means the snow is crazy deep and it was still falling when we loaded.

When you tightened up the RTS you canceled out the gains you made by tightning the FTS. Get the big boy spring and adjust from there.
 
as some others have asked, what adjustments for the assault?

Have you ridden it yet? If so, what don't you like? The Assaults have a stiffer FTS spring and the front arm is mounted an inch lower than on a Pro so you'll get better transfer and sidehill/carve initiation is excellent no matter what your shock settings are, even with the wider ski stance. The only thing you need to focus on is getting the compression and spring settings right so that you're using all/most of the travel and not bottoming hard.

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
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