What about the limiter strap changes? Team, recommended my going to the 19t with the clutching setup is it that low? I've seen guys on here who go 17/47 I'm just 19/45?
Suspension, Clutching and More.. Question of the ages.
- Thread starter brahm
- Start date
What about the limiter strap changes? Team, recommended my going to the 19t with the clutching setup is it that low? I've seen guys on here who go 17/47 I'm just 19/45?
Here is what happens when you change a gear ratio to a lower ratio
or
When you change the overall ratio (aka smaller drive sprocket diameter)
The term(s) tuners use "gearing too low" or "geared lower" is a "label", a descriptive marker that is attached to a result of reducing "overall drive ratio"
Gearing commentary
IF you can remember the theory "The law" of how the parts work, then you change your overall drive ratio and see "X" result...
THEN you can apply other theory "the law" of how the parts work to compensate for the lower gearing.
An example.
You can run a gear set with 21:49 as stock with a 413 ramp and reveal "rated rpms" (8150) right to full shift.
If you were to run a 20 or 19:49 then make the same run down a road to full speed, there is a great chance that you'll observe rpms that will stay at 8150 until the load changes (bumps, cycling throttle for a corner, snow getting slight deeper) then the rpms will reduce. [remember the lever is doing more work being farther out on the ramp]
Alright...
You reveal lower rpms under re-applying full throttle.
Ramp example illustration ( i will get a picture of 413 vs 410 vs 417 and post)
You can take the 413 ramp out and install a 410 or a 417 as each of these ramps have an increased angle towards full shift compared to the 413.
Law - If ramp angle increase; Then rpms increase. Then rpms quicken from one rpm to a higher rpm / time.
You reveal lower rpms under re-applying full throttle.
Example question arises - what spring force is being used at an example 45mph track speed? (look at track speed at bottom of chart)
You can look at your primary spring final force. The rpms reduced with a xxx/260.
You can remove the xxx/260 and install a xxx/290 or a xxx/320.
Each time you raise the final force then you will be adding more spring force at-the-moment-during-upshift where the rpms start to diminish or become sluggish.
How much spring force you add at-that-point-on-the-upshift will determine 1)how much the rpms will drift low. 2)how quick the rpms will recover.
there is always an easy way to get around drifting rpms due to a gear change.
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Your gearing is acceptable IMO. The new Team clutch is going to be a bit of a learning curve for you, not alot of them with much time, especially on the Doo's in the mountains so not many "proven" setups to learn from.
Put that helix on the 66-60 angle....this will show a little stronger backshift and a little more RPM. Then put your clickers on 3-4 and adjust pin weight for 83-8400 on a hill.
Let us know what you try and the results....pay close attention to RPM, how quick it recovers and the temperature comparison between both clutches....that will go a long ways to telling you where to look at making a change.
As far as your suspension, let the limiter out enough that it transfers weight (but not skis to the sky), to get enough hook-up to load the clutching. Also, make sure the track isn't banjo-tight, should have a couple inches of sag when you push down on it.
Let us know what you find.
