Surging 2005 RMK 900 Cutting Out

[Mech Engr]

Went up Monday to ride. My friend was riding my RMK 900 most of the day. When we came back to the truck for lunch he said it started cutting out on him a few miles out. We filled the sleds up with gas and oil and went back out. This time he rode my Pro and I rode the 900. I rode it hard for a good 45 minutes with no cut out. I figured he just wanted to ride my Pro and fed me a line of crap about the 900 cutting out. Then when we were heading back and still about 7 miles out it started doing it to me. It got worse the closer we got to the truck and at one point I didn't think I'd make it back. It would cut out or surge (2000-3000 variance in RPM). The RPM would vary when I wasn't moving the throttle. It sounded to me like a fuel starvation problem. If I did hit the throttle it would bog and almost die. When I let off it would recover and idle and give me enough RPM to limp back. It was running normal temps (130ish) all day too. I thought probably the fuel filter (didn't change it this year before the season and it's got maybe 1500 miles on it). I bought a filter and researched the heck out the problem here and here is what I have come up with...

replace fuel filter
inspect TPS harness
inspect lines in tank for deterioration

Anything else I should look for?

Thanks, John

 

[guidoxpress]

Ur on the right track. Def replace filter (eBay has them for $25), you won't be able to inspect the TPS harness, the wires break inside the insulation, better off to just replace it no matter what, it's $35 for the kit.

Check the fuel lines in the tank and make sure you have the new update fuel float..if the foot is white is new, if it's black it's the old one. They tend to deteriorate and clog fuel filters also.


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[Mech Engr]

Ur on the right track. Def replace filter (eBay has them for $25), you won't be able to inspect the TPS harness, the wires break inside the insulation, better off to just replace it no matter what, it's $35 for the kit.

Check the fuel lines in the tank and make sure you have the new update fuel float..if the foot is white is new, if it's black it's the old one. They tend to deteriorate and clog fuel filters also.


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Thanks. Do you happen to have the part number for the TPS harness kit?

I replaced the float a couple years ago...did a nice write up here on the forum with pictures. It's the new white float. I remember Mountainhorse warning me about the fuel lines deteriorating from the crappy CA gas so I will definately check those.

John

 

[Mech Engr]

What's everyone using to replace the fuel line in the tank when they deteriorate? Please don'y say your using the gates submersible line @ $25 per foot either. The lines that came stock look like clear PVC. Mine have lasted 9 years and 3200 miles so I'm good with putting the same type back in.

John

 

[Mech Engr]

Well here is what I found...

Fuel filter was plugged pretty good and had a great deal of backpressure. I still thought that wasn't enough to casue the surging so I removed the tank and took the fuel pump/pick up assy out of the tank. Sure enough I found that the fuel return line (tan opaque colored line) was broken where the factory had installed a zip tie to keep the two lines together. The lines still seemed to be in pretty good shape so I installed a double brass barb and some stainless hose calmps to put the line back together. I'll take it up this weekend after our storm here in Nor Cal and try it out to make sure that was it.

John

 

[Mech Engr]

I took the 900 up yesterday as a spare sled and to try and see if my repairs did the trick. They didn't and I was pretty shocked! 1/2 mile out and it started to surge badly and perhaps cut out. I was convinced before that this is a fuel problem but I'm not so sure now. If it is an electrical cut out, it's highly intermitent. It will idel fine but when I try and give it gas it stumbles. Then it will run fine all of a sudden. Once I got turned around and headed back to the truck it ran better until I got to the truck then it started surging and cutting out again. It doesn't even sound like it's idling right. I'm not sure where to go next...should I look at the flywheel and make sure the baccking hasn't damaged the stator wires or could the fuel pump be intermitent? Is there another filter inside the tank I missed? I definately need some help here.

Full disclosure: I put a set of 3" bar risers on it a few days before all this started happening but I did check all the wiring and T-cable to make sure all had plenty of flex room. Also we put 60-70 miles on it after the install before it staretd doing this. I have rechecked all the wiring and the T-cable and there appears to be no problems there.

John

 

[sloan188]

I'd be leaning towards TPS pigtail or flywheel innersheath separation and cutting into your stator wires.

 

[Mech Engr]

I'd be leaning towards TPS pigtail or flywheel innersheath separation and cutting into your stator wires.

Thanks. I have heard a lot about the TPS pigtail. Are these symtoms in line with what you'd see with the faulty TPS wiring?

What is the part number for the TPS Pigtail?

Thanks, John

 

[sloan188]

part number is 2203165...you will need to cut the old one off and solder/heat shrink the new one on.

When it went on mine it got progressively worse...initially it was intermittent, seemed like fuel or running on one cylinder, caused a little sputtering, etc...

I found mine was bad by pulling gently but firmly on each of the wires going into the connector....one of the wires came off. Thanks to this forum, I knew it would fail and had a spare on hand so down time was about 10mins once I found the problem.

If you haven't checked your flywheel inner sheath you should because it's not a matter of if but when it will fail. If the inner sheath separates and cuts into your stator it could cause similar symptoms. I've had cases where the stator was repairable and ruined...

 

[Mech Engr]

part number is 2203165...you will need to cut the old one off and solder/heat shrink the new one on.

When it went on mine it got progressively worse...initially it was intermittent, seemed like fuel or running on one cylinder, caused a little sputtering, etc...

I found mine was bad by pulling gently but firmly on each of the wires going into the connector....one of the wires came off. Thanks to this forum, I knew it would fail and had a spare on hand so down time was about 10mins once I found the problem.

If you haven't checked your flywheel inner sheath you should because it's not a matter of if but when it will fail. If the inner sheath separates and cuts into your stator it could cause similar symptoms. I've had cases where the stator was repairable and ruined...

Thanks. It still runs so if the stator wires are damaged they'd most likely be repairable. I'll order the TPS pigtail kit. Not in a hurry as this is a spare sled anyway. I just can't let it go though you know. That sled I and have been through a lot. I bought it with 700 miles on it and with MH's help did all the upgrades for reliability. now she has about 3200 and this is the very first issue of any type I've had.

I assume that any old three-leg puller will work for the flywheel?

John

 

[sloan188]

I hear you...I bought mine with 700km, all updates done and a blown motor. I blew it up 2 years ago (spun bearing) with around 11000km. I learned a lot (the hard way) in the 1st 11000km. It's since been rebuilt and has had at least another 2000km put on it.

Not sure if any 3-hole puller will work but I've used a cheap $15 harmonic puller and a more expensive SLP puller with no issues.

 

[Mech Engr]

Can anyone tell me what the fitting type is for connecting a fuel pressure gauge. i.e. is it GM, Ford type or is there some type of specific Polaris adapter I'd need?

Thanks, John

 

[guidoxpress]

Fuel line tool Im not sure of...I run external fuel pressure gauges on the console..but it's a standard Schrader valve

TPS pigtail is a HUGE must, I've had a lot of issues with them in the past like your talking about, tons of intermittent running...also with dirty injectors.

Get new pigtail, test fuel psi, change fuel filter, rebuild injectors with Indydan or witchhunter.com


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[Mech Engr]

Fuel line tool Im not sure of...I run external fuel pressure gauges on the console..but it's a standard Schrader valve

TPS pigtail is a HUGE must, I've had a lot of issues with them in the past like your talking about, tons of intermittent running...also with dirty injectors.

Get new pigtail, test fuel psi, change fuel filter, rebuild injectors with Indydan or witchhunter.com


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Inova (company who makes the nice OBD2 readers) makes a fuel injection test kit that includes a nice brass adapter for the Schrader valve. Apparently a lot of cars have that Schrader valve connection too. I bought the kit for $30 at my local auto parts store and it works awesome. Took me less than 5 minutes to check the fuel pressure. Mine was steady at a little less than 60 psi so it's good. I have the pigtail...can't beleive Polaris has the oddasity to charge $40 for that!! I'll put it in this morning and also pop the flywheel off and check the stator wires. Fuel filter was already replaced. MH had me send out the injectors to Witchunter about 1 1/2 years ago. Hope I don't need to send them back already.

 

[Mech Engr]

Well, popped the flywheel off yesterday morning and it was fine. It'd be nice if someone posted a pic of the sheath coming off but I could tell mine was not and no damaged wires. Also changed out the TPS pigtail. I took it out today as a spare and it didn't even get 200 feet before it started cutting out again. So back on the Pro for a nice ride! I checked the fuel pressure again when I got home and it was still right under 60 so I'm thinking it might be a pick up coil/sensor??
I didn't test the stator when the flywheel was off because it looked like the stator wiring harness goes behind the tank and I just didn't feel like taking the tank off again. Is there a way to test the stator in situ? MH offered to give me a hand and maybe I'll be taking him up on that. I just wanted to do everything I could before wasting his time.

John

 

[Confusion 900]

Testing Stator

I have just had the voltage regulator fail on my 06 fusion and it took out the ECU, I have just tested the stator that was brand new and it seems to be fine, I have the Polaris manual in PDF form with the specs on your stator to bench test it, if you send me your Email I will send you the whole manual.
ILHC@FVI.NET, also I replaced my ECU with a used one and after installing it I am receiving a code 7 for a disconnected injector, after ohming everything it appears that code was still in the ECU from the prior sled it had come out of, Does anyone know how to clear a code or do you need to go to a dealer?

 

[guidoxpress]

Mech..
Try ohming the stator and see what you get there. But note they can test good and be Infact bad..


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[guidoxpress]

Confusion
The sled should clear itself of any codes once u actually ride it for a minute.
Unless u actually have an injector pin that was pushed in if u messed with that with assembly..it's very common with the tight fitting connectors to push pins back inside housing.

Otherwise the Polaris digital wrench can clear ur codes for u


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[Confusion 900]

Guido

Thanks for the useful information as my local dealer told me the only way to clear them is with the digital wrench.

 

[TrailRebel]

Can anyone tell me what the fitting type is for connecting a fuel pressure gauge. i.e. is it GM, Ford type or is there some type of specific Polaris adapter I'd need?

Thanks, John

It'll be a Ford style connector. 3/8" I believe.

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