Summer storage and fogging

[rmk727]

Rocket; this is my big concern ( summerizing) and it's why I am into this discussion. I now am rethinking my summerizing technique, I was adding a quart of oil to gas and putting cardboard under exhaust then run machine burping the throttle till the cardboard got soaked with unburnt oil , then pumping the gas oil mix oil and putting it in my next sled , but if this is not getting a coating on the crank bearing then it is a moot deal and I'm back to fogging and that sucks cuz the throttle bodies are hard to get at. Need to get Pol to reinstall the crank drains so we can fill with oil for summer, but how the heck would we get at them? Guys it is a joke I realize if someone pulled the rope it would hydrolock, but dam those bearing last longer with oil

 

[theultrarider]

Rocket; this is my big concern ( summerizing) and it's why I am into this discussion. I now am rethinking my summerizing technique, I was adding a quart of oil to gas and putting cardboard under exhaust then run machine burping the throttle till the cardboard got soaked with unburnt oil , then pumping the gas oil mix oil and putting it in my next sled , but if this is not getting a coating on the crank bearing then it is a moot deal and I'm back to fogging and that sucks cuz the throttle bodies are hard to get at. Need to get Pol to reinstall the crank drains so we can fill with oil for summer, but how the heck would we get at them? Guys it is a joke I realize if someone pulled the rope it would hydrolock, but dam those bearing last longer with oil

For summerizing, I just start mine atleast once a month and make a few rips across the yard and put them away. Granted, most wont ride them, but seriously, there is nothing better than just starting the damn thing once a month, bring it up to temp, and shut it down. You will never have an issue with a motor doing that. Atleast I haven't in the past 40 years...

 

[Rocketboy]

Rocket; this is my big concern ( summerizing) and it's why I am into this discussion. I now am rethinking my summerizing technique, I was adding a quart of oil to gas and putting cardboard under exhaust then run machine burping the throttle till the cardboard got soaked with unburnt oil , then pumping the gas oil mix oil and putting it in my next sled , but if this is not getting a coating on the crank bearing then it is a moot deal and I'm back to fogging and that sucks cuz the throttle bodies are hard to get at. Need to get Pol to reinstall the crank drains so we can fill with oil for summer, but how the heck would we get at them? Guys it is a joke I realize if someone pulled the rope it would hydrolock, but dam those bearing last longer with oil

I think for the summer a person needs to start the sled every few weeks and get it up to temp. That way it burns the moisture out of the case and gets some fresh oil on everything.
This is NOT what I have done in the past, but I think it is what I will be going to.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

now for summer storage,,,I would on your last couple rides run your oil tank down and convert back over to polaris blue dino oil...it sticks to things much better then a synthetic and will do a much better job of protecting the internals....once winter comes convert it back over to synthetic...

 

[mountainhorse]

I agree with Mike... Synthetics are not very tenacious.

I'm a big fan of fogging...that oil is designed to stick to parts for long periods.

 

[Rocketboy]

I agree with Mike... Synthetics are not very tenacious.

I'm a big fan of fogging...that oil is designed to stick to parts for long periods.

I like fogging as well, but now with the gas not getting to the crank really- how do you get the fogging oil there?

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

pull the plugs. jack the frt of the sled up.roll the clutch till the piston on 1 cylinder is flush with the bottom of the transfer port, and pour quite a bit of oil in..then do the other cylinder...once both are done fire the sled up and run for 10-20 seconds and shut down..should coat both crankcases pretty good as well as push it up into the topend as well............

 

[mountainhorse]

AK... that process runs the risk of "hydraulic-ing" the the motor and bending things..unless you are very well trained in what you are doing.

This is the method I prefer

 

[zimms]

pull the plugs. jack the frt of the sled up.roll the clutch till the piston on 1 cylinder is flush with the bottom of the transfer port, and pour quite a bit of oil in..then do the other cylinder...once both are done fire the sled up and run for 10-20 seconds and shut down..should coat both crankcases pretty good as well as push it up into the topend as well............

I've been doing the same thing for the last 15 years but after I get oil down the cylinders I pull it over without the plugs installed a couple of times. Reinstall the plugs and spray everything down with wd-40, grease the suspension, pull the belt and done. I've done that on the last four sleds I've owned with no problems.

 

[rmk727]

Nice post Zimms that makes sense not that the other isn't great it's just trusting a nonmotor head to put the correct amount in. MH sure that is the perfect way but these are not outboards they are not even the old big bore motors and to get at them sucks , next worry is Joe nobody tearing a mounting flange or not getting the airbox back on correctly and thus mussing up a piston skirt, Ive talked to my Pol engineer friends and not had a good responce on making a kit to spray fogging oil into the case from up top like the old Johnson outboards but maybe next yr. Maybe if we get lucky they will put an antifreeze drain also !

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

also..put sea foam in the fuel tank..it will clean the entire fuel system, stabilize the fuel for 2 yrs, disperse any water, and it helps keep the injectors from sticking....and Eric you are right..oiling the crankcase has to be done carefully for sure...but is about the best way to protect the bottom end...personally..just pouring the oil in, rolling the motor over would be plenty good I would think..person could roll sled up on ea. side to make sure wristpins got coated good , big end would be automatically from roliing the motor over, and the piston/rings/cylinders would from pouring the oil in from the plugs..probably foul some plugs when it gets taken out of storage for sure...I seafoam my fuel and start the sled every 3-4 weeks year round..never had an issue doing it that way..

 

[reed4rmk]

Geeezz...way to hard.

Pull the belt. Grease all the fittings. Put Stabil in the fuel and run it through the system. Fog it till it chokes. Lift the track. Put it away and forget about it. And before someone chimes in with the new technology aspect...I'll be doing the samething with my 2012 Pro.

 

[xc6rider]

This is just like another oil topic.... everyone has their favorite.

I love the start it up once a month process, and one would think it would be fine, but really, it's not! You NEED to find a good coating fogging oil, and use it, religously!

I've seen professionally rebuilt cranks in tip top shape take on surface corrosion in as little as a few days time! (PWC, watercraft) And really we're in no differtent situation with sleds!

Sleds are constantly consuming moisture during normal operation whether you think it is or not.

In my opinion, if your sled is going to sit for more than a week's time, it really should be hit with a decent shot of fogging oil!

Gasoline, especially with ANY ethanol, is a VERY great solvent against corrosion inhibators.

After the years of my experience with fogging oils, my favorite for good coating, protection, as well as burning out upon frequent uses..... I really like the the ski-doo/sea-doo xps storage/fogging oil.

http://www.parkeryamaha.com/brpxp-slubespray293600016.aspx

Theirs a link to the product from one dealer........ no dealer in particular.

Like I suggest to every PWC owner, I think every sled should also be given a shot of this stuff after EVERY ride to be completely sure of no crank corrosion. It sticks great, you can spray damn near as much as you want, and it will burn right out without a problem!! Spray and spray and spray until you think its coated good. It's probably the only dang fogging oil ive ever found that will act as a fuel..... I'd take this stuff and spray continuously with COMPLETELY water flooded cases and it would eventually fire on it. And rarely fouls plugs after it's use. Will still smoke like a SOB though!


And as far as worrying about hydro-locking..... Take it for granted, you will need ounces upon ounces of added fogging oil to an engine to cause an actual hydro-lock situation that causes damage.


Once again, this Bomb XP-S fogging oil is great...

 

[m8sandman]

i think a lot has to do with where you live and where you store your sled. i've been riding for 16 years and never fogged an engine once. i put 2-3,000 miles a year on a sled and have had one or 2 with 10k on them before sold. maybe i'm just lucky but have never had any lower end problems. i do start mine about once a month and it is always stored inside. like posted above ask 10 different guys and you'll get 10 different answers, i guess do what works for you...

 

[zimms]

Nice post Zimms that makes sense not that the other isn't great it's just trusting a nonmotor head to put the correct amount in. MH sure that is the perfect way but these are not outboards they are not even the old big bore motors and to get at them sucks , next worry is Joe nobody tearing a mounting flange or not getting the airbox back on correctly and thus mussing up a piston skirt, Ive talked to my Pol engineer friends and not had a good responce on making a kit to spray fogging oil into the case from up top like the old Johnson outboards but maybe next yr. Maybe if we get lucky they will put an antifreeze drain also !

I put an ounce down each cylinder. I have fitch fuel catalysts in the gas tank and run a bottle of polaris carbon clean in the tank for the first ride the next year to clean out the system.

 

[Pro-8250]

i think a lot has to do with where you live and where you store your sled. i've been riding for 16 years and never fogged an engine once. i put 2-3,000 miles a year on a sled and have had one or 2 with 10k on them before sold. maybe i'm just lucky but have never had any lower end problems. i do start mine about once a month and it is always stored inside. like posted above ask 10 different guys and you'll get 10 different answers, i guess do what works for you...

Exactly what we do too.
Sea foam, run once a month for about 10-15 minutes, 100 degrees.
I always run the drive system slowly, just enough to get the chain, wheels, bearings, etc. turning. Our shop is normally cool and dry so we don't worry too much about it. Storing it in a enclosed trailer is another story though. Always have done it this way. 1999 XC700 17,000+ miles. NEVER one motor problem.
It's mid January! Why are we talking about storing sleds?

 

[oldcrow]

I like fogging as well, but now with the gas not getting to the crank really- how do you get the fogging oil there?

You spray the fogging oil in the airflow (inlet of the throttlebodies)
Airflow still goes thru the crankcase

 

[Reg2view]

Abit harder to fog, pulling the clutch cover to get the top of the airbox off, put an extension on the fogging can straw, but not overwhelming. If you change your fuel filter every year like you should, you have to pull the cover anyways. We all have personal preferences.

After tearing down motors post-fog, after sitting for months, I'm sold on fogging. The film good fogging oil leaves on the motor internals is simply incredible. I have a few sleds in the fleet that I keep for 5 or more years, where the payoff is really high with fogging. FWIW.

 

[tek9tim]

We're already talking about this? The winter is just starting to get good!