Suggestions for drying out my enclosed trailer

[swikertrob]

Yeah put a drain in it with heat tape. Then cut your self some foam that will fit inside it to help keep the draft down if their is one, then when you are done you can pull it out easily and let it drain.

ZR 600

will you please post a picture of this if possble.

 

[AZ800]

Outside temp makes a big difference. If you can park the trailer where it gets some sun (presuming cabin is in Eastern WA, colder but sunnier) the temps arent too cold here, teh sun should do alot of the melting for you.
The key is keep the air moving with a fan.
My uninsulated aluminum trailer stored here on this side of the mtns was always soaked all year except in the summer. 1 little fan and keeping the roof vent cracked keeps it dry inside. A few days after riding, everything is dry except the floor plywood (and the gas tanks on the sleds still sweat a little).
Little elect radiator heater and a fan behind it will do the trick.
I wouldnt trust that to dry the gear theough.

 

[AZ800]

Also, haven't tried them yet, but at our construction yard we use these big dessicant packs in the Sea Cans (uninsulated) that are for document storage.
They are pretty cheap, like $15 a pop and our yard guy says 2 of those keep a 40ft SeaCan full of paper condensation free.
Not the best when the sleds are thawing out probably, but I'm considering using those for off season storage.

 

[xcbuc22]

I like the idea about the drain.....I have been trying to think of different solutions for getting the water out as well.

Let me ask you guys this.....does anyone have the floor itself of your trailers insulated? I have the walls and ceiling on mine insulated and with the RV furnace in there - I can get it up to whatever temp I want. Unfortunately, you can tell that between the ceiling and floor there is probably a 30 degree difference in temp....if not more. I am a little afraid to insulate the floor with the idea that the insulation could (and probably will) get saturated with the water.

Is just running the fan the way to go to get the air circulating? Or is there a way to effectively get that floor insulated as well? Already starting my project list for the trailer for this coming summer.

Thoughts....?

I noticed a huge temp difference between the head level and floor level. 70F on top and 40-50F on floor. Couple feet make a big difference! This is my 1st season with the 30K forced air furnace. Not insulated, but I have the white panels on the ceiling. I really noticed it when it gets under 10 degrees outside. Little cold when working on the sled. This last weekend I temporarily added a desk mount 12" fan. I had it head level and pointed it down on 1 side. Worked great! All the snow on the floor completely melted on only 1 side of the trailer the fan was blowing directly on. The key is to really push that air around like others mentioned. The heat rises so have to get it to the floor. This summer I'm going to install 2 12" fans on the ceiling and point them down. 1 on each side.
The drain on the floor is good idea.

 

[monster715]

Yep....I have added a fan as well and it does make a huge difference. Just got back from Cooke City, MT all last week and there was definitely some wrenching of sleds going on and that helped alot. I only have a 18K BTU furnace and my trailer is 25' long but completely insulated except for the floor. This summer I want to add some PVC pipe (like I have seen guys do on the some of these 'enclosed trailer' threads) to direct the heat a little more. Then mount a few smaller fans to move the air. Should be a nice addition.

 

[xcbuc22]

I'm going to add a Fan-Tastic Vent 01100WH Endless Breeze 12V Fan. It's a compact size and looks like it really moves the air. Little pricey, $70.
I actually almost bought that for my camping trips in the summertime, but I bought a RoadPro RP73002 10", the cheaper one. I'm going to permanently mount the Fan-Tastic Vent fan, and use my other Roadpro camping fan since I don't need it in the winter. The Roadpro is a decent fan, moves decent amount for my big tent while camping. I want a little more airflow in the trailer though.
They're both 12V fans and compact. The Roadpro even has a swivel on it, so I flip it up out of the way. I have a taller trailer though so it shouldn't be an issue.

Does your 18K BTU heater get the trailer pretty warm? Your insulation must really help with keeping that heat. My trailer gets toasty warm, but just need to get some heat to the floor. Not sure If I'm going to insulate mine yet. I've ran the heat for total of at least 60hrs and still got 50% of propane off $40 fill at beginning of year. Crazy, I never expected that good. Some ducting should really help spread your heat out. I used some 4 in. x 10 ft. Triplewall Pipe 2 Hole for my main ducting and some 4" flexible tubing that I got at Home Depot.

 

[monster715]

Yeah - it does get very toasty in there. The nice thing with the insulation is that once it gets to temp (which is pretty quick) then the thermostat shuts off the furnace and it seems like it holds the warm temp for quite some time. I have a 100# propane tank in there and I have not filled it for 4 years now....maybe longer.

But.....I have the same issue - its significantly cooler down at floor level. So yeah, I will try some piping to direct that warm air to the floor and add the fan(s) to keep the air moving.

 

[summ8rmk]

I just picked this up at Costco for under $50.
it flat moves some air you could use it as a leaf blower if you needed to lol.

 

[blk9038]

I park my trailer outside at my cabin. After a ride I have sleds full of snow, wet gear ect. I flip on the heater and it works perfect for melting off all the snow and drying the place out. Except...I'm getting tired of filling my 11 gallon propane tank. I'm wired for 110 inside the trailer so I bought one of those oil filled radiator style electric heaters. No go. Its not going to cut it. Any suggestions on a good electric heater that will work to dry out my trailer so I can save my propane for when I'm on the road?

Thanks

i was running into somewhat same issue so i went 1 step further and cut out 4 areas about 2 in. long on bottom part of door seal (foam) (bottom lwr edge of rear door) and i have a tilted driveway and use a 25dollar ace elect heater/fan / with knockover protection with multi settings i park so first day when heat on snow all melts and flows out those (4) 2 in. excapes then repark in the flat with a slight roof vent opening and all dry including equiptment works great on my 24 ft non insuulated trailer.
also a joy to work on sleds when it is toasty in there rather than freeze fingers on cold wrenches. hope this helps.