Stupid Trailer Heating Question of the day…
- Thread starter bamf
- Start date
I drilled a couple 1/2" holes in the back. Have decktread tiles over top so I don't see them.
if you can have a heat vent that blows at the base of the rear door that should help a lot. deck tread or similar flooring is amazing. all the snow and water goes below and its nice and grippy. I run 2 self contained diesel forced air heaters in my trailer and love them. not as many btu as a propan furnace but no bottle to worry about and they draw very electricity. could have one in the rear by the door and one in the middle pointing the heat at the sleds.
NOT a stupid question at all.
Everyone with a Trailer sees this problem at one time or another.
whenever we used my trailer with heat we typically stayed parked for a week.
I always unhooked and lowered the tongue all the way down so the water collected at the front and ran out through a factory hole in the point of the V
That way the rear door was first to melt/dry off.
i also shoveled snow around the outside to help insulate the floor a little. it helped substantially to keep it thawed.
next trailer will have 2 diesel heaters, one in the front and one in the rear mounted as low as possible.
the front one will be in a box with a blend door to pull outside air to help push moisture out, but still able to draw inside air when driving or for quicker heat recovery. or pull only outside to really push moisture out.
I always unhooked and lowered the tongue all the way down so the water collected at the front and ran out through a factory hole in the point of the V
That way the rear door was first to melt/dry off.
i also shoveled snow around the outside to help insulate the floor a little. it helped substantially to keep it thawed.
next trailer will have 2 diesel heaters, one in the front and one in the rear mounted as low as possible.
the front one will be in a box with a blend door to pull outside air to help push moisture out, but still able to draw inside air when driving or for quicker heat recovery. or pull only outside to really push moisture out.
i run one diesel 10k btu heater in our 03' 5 place trailer with less than ideal insulation and no insulation in floor just 3/4' plywood. i draw air from outside as mentioned above like @North Dakota 322. i have heater set up in rear of trailer blowing forward and have a rear ceiling vent door i crack open an inch to help vent moisture out. even 5 sleds thawing including all gear etc have never had ice issues on doors, have had icing issues when towing from road spray freezing rear door but never had a door freeze from sleds thawing. when at the house i do run a box fan in there to help move air stays about 55 in there overnight (temps usually in teens over night winter time at house)
Also I get about 8-10 hours of run time per gallon of diesel depending on outside temps.
Also dewalt makes a nice little propane torpedo heater that runs on a 20v battery. After unloading sleds and closing ramp doors run this for a few minutes and trailer temps are in 60’s to get dressed and geared up. Or it helps when you get home and park trailer to run that for a couple minutes and help the diesel heater out.
If you do run the propane heat be careful not to gas yourself out and leave a window or two open. I usually just leave the ceiling vent open with the man door to vent the space.
what brand of heater do you use?
just a cheap amazon china one, rated for 8 k but can be tuned up to 10k btu when you mess with settings. i didnt notice much difference after the "tune" for heat or fuel consumption. i ran a flex tube hose from heater outlet to the floor and pointed in down and toward front of trailer. nothing fancy, im a mechanic so i break rules and deem it "good enough for who its for" but would install way different and better for a customer. if i would rebuild id run a steel echaust pipe the length of trailer and drill a bunch of holes to help disperse heat where i wanted it
this is one of my favorite snowmbile channels to watch, relatable and fun content. also matts pretty knowledgeable for cats if anyone needed cat help heres what i would do for my heater in the future something similar to this.
how do you turn them up, ive got two of the china diesel heaters that come self contained like a little brief case there the 8kw versions. one is a vevor brand it has worked great for 2 years the other is a licashi or something, it throws and overtemp alarm and shuts off if you have it set more than the medium setting.
You have to set it for your elevation, look up a YouTube video it's pretty simple.
I have a friend who has two Diesel heaters in his trailer one in the front blowing towards the sleds the second is mounted high and blowing forward. Here's the kicker, he ran the exhaust from the rear into the box tube that frames the door opening and cut a hole in the frame low and on the opposite side. He says it works like a champ, Ii haven't personally seen it but the logic is good in my book.
What a great idea!
I've got a Likaci 8k heater that was over heating, shut down and restart. Couldn't adjust heat setting over two bars. Bluetooth controller. I had it all apart this fall and back together. Found the heater mounting bolts on the bottom at the exhaust pipe area, the metal case is slotted for the bolts, make sure to slide the heater all the way forward toward the heat output end. This will allow for more air to enter on the intake end. Mine was tight against the metal case on the intake side and not allowing for enough air flow. Tested at all heat settings for over an hour and never over heated/shutdown. Hope that helps with yours also. The rubber gasket on the bottom is hard to slide as it pretty much bonds to the metal case, you may need to slide a putty knife between to get it loose.
thanks I'll definitely try that.
