Stock Suspension W/turbo
- Thread starter Turbo11T
- Start date
Could help, would need some alot of pressure to slow down the weight that would be place on it. Cheapest bet is to stuff the front skid mounting hole up as far as you can go. We do this on our hillclimb sleds, sometimes sitting as high as 3in up in the front to keep the front end down. Not the best way to go about it, but works some. I will join the rest of the guys and say dont waste to much time on it.
Look at the 2010 nytros. They have a limiter strap on the back part of the suspension. It prevents the rear part of the suspension from getting loaded up and changing to a dramatic angle. I am going to give this a shot on my Apex and see how it works. I also think a Fox Float shock would be nice and get rid of the old fashioned spring set up.http://www.snowest.com/forum/images/smilies/old/face-icon-small-happy.gif
The coupler rods are kind of sensitive I tightened them up and found the ride goes to hell in a hand-basked real fast , not much lee-way on that.
The best bet is the limiter strap or lift the front axle up by a Inch or so ---also the moving back of the transfer rods on the rail will give you a more aggressive coupling action that combined with straightened out rails should keep the little turbo under control.
It will be a combination of little mods that make it work not one alone.
The best bet is the limiter strap or lift the front axle up by a Inch or so ---also the moving back of the transfer rods on the rail will give you a more aggressive coupling action that combined with straightened out rails should keep the little turbo under control.
It will be a combination of little mods that make it work not one alone.
Pull the limiters as high as you can bear to ride due to ski pressure and put a rear gas shock in it. That will slow down the transfer a lot and help lots. On my early Apex skids I used an Ohlins rear shock and prior to that I used a gas shock that I think came off a Venture MP (cheap and effective) The rebound is a little harsh but it will do the job and is not a lot of money. I know a few guys pressed their rails straight as well but I never did. Enjoy your sled
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
Lots of pressure.
So your saying it may work? So I may need to try it? Figure I could run alot of pressure in a little float shock.
I am not a big shoot climber or anything. I am looking for small improvements.
I am surprised noone is coming on here saying they have tried this exact thing. makes alot of sense in my head to why it would work.
So your saying it may work? So I may need to try it? Figure I could run alot of pressure in a little float shock.
I am not a big shoot climber or anything. I am looking for small improvements.
I am surprised noone is coming on here saying they have tried this exact thing. makes alot of sense in my head to why it would work.
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
Example
I dont think it would be. I think it needs to have a shock. If you take a shock on a car. It is there to make a smooth ride but also hold the tire to the road. If you just had a spring it would bounce hard. And in theory this is the same type idea. Look at a drag car. On takeoff you wanna see the rear of the car sit down hard and bite the track. Compare this to the weight transfer of a sled. Take the sled on hard pack and take off hard. With a spring it will sit back hard on the weight transfers. And then rebound very fast. With a shock it will sit back hard then rebound but at a smoother rate not making the suspension hop. I think the best way to think about the shock in this position is a variable setting of the stock weight transfer setting that is dependent upon a load.
What I would like it to do is transfer load on a hard take off. And then after the hard take off it would rebound back up forcing the rear arm to couple to the front arm better.
I dont think it would be. I think it needs to have a shock. If you take a shock on a car. It is there to make a smooth ride but also hold the tire to the road. If you just had a spring it would bounce hard. And in theory this is the same type idea. Look at a drag car. On takeoff you wanna see the rear of the car sit down hard and bite the track. Compare this to the weight transfer of a sled. Take the sled on hard pack and take off hard. With a spring it will sit back hard on the weight transfers. And then rebound very fast. With a shock it will sit back hard then rebound but at a smoother rate not making the suspension hop. I think the best way to think about the shock in this position is a variable setting of the stock weight transfer setting that is dependent upon a load.
What I would like it to do is transfer load on a hard take off. And then after the hard take off it would rebound back up forcing the rear arm to couple to the front arm better.
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
Placement of pressure
Here are 2 pic. One is a timbersled. Stole the pic off the swapmeet.
Second is a stock suspension. I drew lines on them showing how the pressure is being displaced from the shock and from the torsion spring. The green shows where the shock is putting pressure in the timbersled pic. the green shows the direction the stock skid is putting pressure. And the red shows the direction the sled will go down. You can easily see that the timbersled shock is giving the weight transfer slides support. Where as the torsion spring is not supplying any support to the weight transfer slides. If fact is doing almost the opposite. That is where the added shock will help. I think i have made my point on this.
Here are 2 pic. One is a timbersled. Stole the pic off the swapmeet.
Second is a stock suspension. I drew lines on them showing how the pressure is being displaced from the shock and from the torsion spring. The green shows where the shock is putting pressure in the timbersled pic. the green shows the direction the stock skid is putting pressure. And the red shows the direction the sled will go down. You can easily see that the timbersled shock is giving the weight transfer slides support. Where as the torsion spring is not supplying any support to the weight transfer slides. If fact is doing almost the opposite. That is where the added shock will help. I think i have made my point on this.
Sorry meant the spring pressure needed to over come the weight transfer for the sled. Not how much the shock weighs. All you would be doing is slowing the transfer down, which if there was a small problem of over transferring it would help kinda like what holz does. Think you would get way more results getting the front skid sitting higher and stiffing up the back. But again get it done and let us know!
it may have been mentioned, but, what about a suspension setback.
that should help some, in addition to your other idea(s).
i think straight rails are a must for boost..or at least very helpful in such a quest.
that should help some, in addition to your other idea(s).
i think straight rails are a must for boost..or at least very helpful in such a quest.
I moved the rear attach point 5 inches back on the slide rails and I relocated/modified the drop brackets to allow a 5 inch move back. It helped with transfer and stiffened the back part of the suspension. It still wheelied too much.
Take the stock shock off and compress it....then try the cheap shock I told you, the gas one. If you want to spend a few bucks and try what you are thinking just give it a whirl. Be sure and let us know how it works, maybe it will work better than the things we are suggesting
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
Finally
Finally had someone contact me that has tried something very similar with a littel fox float. They said it didn't work well for them but also sent me a pic and I think they were very close but just slightly missed the mark and may have actually caused the suspension to transfer more than stock would allow. This is a step in the direction I wanted to go though. The guy who had done it is another snowester that is very innovative and willing to build and try new ideas. I think between him and I we can design a setup that will work for the masses. And still maintain the strength of the heavy yamaha skid.
Finally had someone contact me that has tried something very similar with a littel fox float. They said it didn't work well for them but also sent me a pic and I think they were very close but just slightly missed the mark and may have actually caused the suspension to transfer more than stock would allow. This is a step in the direction I wanted to go though. The guy who had done it is another snowester that is very innovative and willing to build and try new ideas. I think between him and I we can design a setup that will work for the masses. And still maintain the strength of the heavy yamaha skid.
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Turbo11T
Well-known member
QUOTE]
I did some figuring. If I get a small float that is 8inc c to c and a 2 inch stroke. And mount it in the way shown above. The suspension can still transfer weight until the you start to compress the rear arm At that point the shock will force the suspension to couple together. It would be a varible weight transfer. When the rear arm is not collapsed it could transfer back aprox 2 inchs. And as it went down it would transfer less. Where when near bottomed out it would only transfer like a 1/2 inch.
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looks like your going to be spending more than $100.
if your still on the $100 budget, I cut some PVC pipe to the same width as a hose clamp, clamp then onto the tansfer rodes when you go to do a climb. only used them twice tho.
if your still on the $100 budget, I cut some PVC pipe to the same width as a hose clamp, clamp then onto the tansfer rodes when you go to do a climb. only used them twice tho.
B
boosted metal
Member
what sled are you running? My last sled w stock suspension, I ran it boosted , then straightened the rear of the rails in a press to remove the angle [apex skid], really made a difference, no need to reinforce. Did you look at racers edge design for stock skid setup ? Currently running cr m10 ,goodluck!!
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Looks like a good idea, let us know how it works out. It cost more then a 100, but I got the most I could out of my stock skid last year with extensions, 174" track, limiter straps sucked up, front shock loosened as much as possible, torsion springs stiff as possible and the nuts on the rear shocks raised as high as they could go.
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