stock 1000 motor durabilty
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ACMtnCat
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About as good as a Polaris 800.
NOT GOOD ENOUGH!
We had one that ran great for 2500 miles at a time, then the rod bearings would suddenly roast and cease up. Seemed like as soon as that would happen the stator would go out, 4 years in a row. We were riding 2700-3500 hard miles in those years. No problems with pistons or even clutches, but we tinkered and maintained often.
I know of 2 others that would get to the 2500 mile range and lose crank bearings.
I think keeping the 1000 motor at or under 7300 rpms made them last longer, but that never got tested...... the 1000 rider liked 7600 rpms!
NOT GOOD ENOUGH!We had one that ran great for 2500 miles at a time, then the rod bearings would suddenly roast and cease up. Seemed like as soon as that would happen the stator would go out, 4 years in a row. We were riding 2700-3500 hard miles in those years. No problems with pistons or even clutches, but we tinkered and maintained often.
I know of 2 others that would get to the 2500 mile range and lose crank bearings.
I think keeping the 1000 motor at or under 7300 rpms made them last longer, but that never got tested...... the 1000 rider liked 7600 rpms!
J
jim
Well-known member
My 2007 went 2500 and the crank broke. Went another 2500 before chassis cracked at bulkhead due to...not sure. 2 primaries...2 diamond drives...1 secondary...and a top end from controller shut down. Pretty good sled but had some bigger issues. My maintenance was not great but did keep up on recommended maint cycles. Had Y pipe...can...rkt heads and rkt clutch kit. Secondary actually only failed in stock form...rkt cooled it down and worked well. Pretty good sled but prone to some issues. M8 is most reliable sled I think ive been around.
Guess I dumped mine at the right time, lol.
Had about 2000ish miles on my 08. Not exactly sure, it went thru 3 guage pods and the odometer/ speedo didn't work a lot of the time.
CPC hi comp head and intake, SLP pipe set and boo docker fuel box since new.
Didn't have any engine problems at all. Ran it about 77-7800 rpms.
Did spot a clutch weight chunking out the primary not long before sold. Injector wire chaffed got me on a few rides, dieing out randomly til I found it. Couple motor mounts.
Really ran spot on 99% of the time and even better after Racinstation clutch setup.
Stock gearing and the mech reverse DD never gave any trouble. Changed the oil in it once a year, never opened it up. Went through a few belts but not a belt eater. Usually an overheat from a tough tow out of a dead sled.
Guess it was ready to blow up when I sold it......couldn't tell when it was carrying the skis all the way up a hill!
Loved the raw power it had.
Had about 2000ish miles on my 08. Not exactly sure, it went thru 3 guage pods and the odometer/ speedo didn't work a lot of the time.
CPC hi comp head and intake, SLP pipe set and boo docker fuel box since new.
Didn't have any engine problems at all. Ran it about 77-7800 rpms.
Did spot a clutch weight chunking out the primary not long before sold. Injector wire chaffed got me on a few rides, dieing out randomly til I found it. Couple motor mounts.
Really ran spot on 99% of the time and even better after Racinstation clutch setup.
Stock gearing and the mech reverse DD never gave any trouble. Changed the oil in it once a year, never opened it up. Went through a few belts but not a belt eater. Usually an overheat from a tough tow out of a dead sled.
Guess it was ready to blow up when I sold it......couldn't tell when it was carrying the skis all the way up a hill!
Loved the raw power it had.
I've seen them go over 5000 miles stock and maintained right. With mods though was another story because no one knew what they where doing. I'm pretty confident I could make one last with mods at this point. But for my riding styleof riding the clutches go about 1500-2000, need extra motor mounts and they go bad. Other then that if you know how everything works and you have the right gauges and knowledge you can make them last.
Most crank failures are from running lean at lower rpm, and piston failures are from lean at wot. You pretty much want to over fuel the whole map and if done right it runs better and pulls the hardest.
Btw,
I've got a friends 07 for sale with new engine (From AC, not rebuilt) under 500 miles and only ran with a can for mods since install. Previous engine failed from running a y pipe and can with out a controller, sled has 3000miles in good condition. $2800 obo (engine is worth that alone, especially since they are discontinued )
Most crank failures are from running lean at lower rpm, and piston failures are from lean at wot. You pretty much want to over fuel the whole map and if done right it runs better and pulls the hardest.
Btw,
I've got a friends 07 for sale with new engine (From AC, not rebuilt) under 500 miles and only ran with a can for mods since install. Previous engine failed from running a y pipe and can with out a controller, sled has 3000miles in good condition. $2800 obo (engine is worth that alone, especially since they are discontinued )
My first M1000 went 8000 miles then the clutch broke off of the crank shaft.
The one I am riding now has 3 seasons on all boosted right from new.
I'll be riding this one for another season.
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The one I am riding now has 3 seasons on all boosted right from new.
I'll be riding this one for another season.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
IMO its all in how you ride.... 60+% of the time you ride trail/medows it will last longer. If your boondocking and or banging a hill over and over and over again they don t last as long....The 1000 is a fun sled but you HAVE to maintain her. This sled pushs the durability of all the parts of the sled when its pushed hard. Some people may ride it fairly hard and get 3-5000 miles out of it but my experience is it needs pistons/clutch/DD around every 1800 miles, after that your on barrowed time.
mine has been great its rkt ported rkt 13.6-1 head speedwerx pipe and y oil delete i have been rising the same motor since i got it and have alot of miles on it. i have changed the pistons as a maintance thing. They are hard on motor mounts and i have losta stater. . Its been a good one for me. the m8 is a far more durable macine though even with a big bore sitting on it.
That's false, or at least misleading because its based on tuning.
I've seen more issues from trail riding than anything and if tuned right it will last just as long ran hard.
The mid range on these is stupid lean because of the emission standards, like I said before if you know how to tune the engine lasts, and to get the most out of it you have to invest in extra parts and gauges.
He's right
Wyo is correct I had over 3K miles on mine modded and finaly lost a piston skirt, It ran the rest of the season till I tore it down in the summer for a rebuild. I remembered when it came apart, 300 miles earlier, locked up spun crank backwards and the chunk came flying out the exhaust. still ran hard though just a bugger to pull over more resistance when scraping on the cyl. Its ALL in the tuning, Very lean in the midrange and if you don't catch it, its expensive. Found it was cheaper to get new complete cat motor for only $2K. Bolted new one in and off we go.
Wyo is correct I had over 3K miles on mine modded and finaly lost a piston skirt, It ran the rest of the season till I tore it down in the summer for a rebuild. I remembered when it came apart, 300 miles earlier, locked up spun crank backwards and the chunk came flying out the exhaust. still ran hard though just a bugger to pull over more resistance when scraping on the cyl. Its ALL in the tuning, Very lean in the midrange and if you don't catch it, its expensive. Found it was cheaper to get new complete cat motor for only $2K. Bolted new one in and off we go.
they are going to go and no one can say when . I have seen them pop with 750 m i on them and a bud had a xf with 7k on it. I dumped my 1000 at 2200 because I knew it was only a matter of time till I was spending a whole vacation day pissing off my buds because there day was also shot yanking a busted pos out of the hills
My 07 has been very reliable. Right at 5500 miles before I finally lost a rod bearing back in March. Engine is modded with porting, RKT head, y-pipe, Speedwerx pipe, balanced clutches. Been a pull and go sled since day one. I have changed pistons (Maintenance about 3 seasons ago.) She's all new now, run-out under a 1/2 thousandth n the crank, freshened cylinders and new pistons. I must have got a good one. Been a great, fun sled to me! I agree, they need to be tuned and clutched correctly for a care-free ride.
I would do pistons on either at 2500 miles then your good for a while longer.
No. The 800 should be good from what i have seen to 3500-4000 easy. I have actually yet to see an 800 HO actually fail.
Wrong, stock 800ho will go forever unless something fails, seen several stock 1000 go well over 5000, some over 8k.
And if you know how to tune correctly you can mod a 1000 and go just as far or farther. Proper tuning will actually extend the life. But there are very very few that actually know how to tune and what to watch for on a 1000, the 8 HO is the better option for most.
And if you know how to tune correctly you can mod a 1000 and go just as far or farther. Proper tuning will actually extend the life. But there are very very few that actually know how to tune and what to watch for on a 1000, the 8 HO is the better option for most.
My first motor went for 5k miles. the first 1,000 miles were in stock form and then for the next 4k I was running a can and intake with no fuel controller. Primary went at about 2500 miles like a typical cat primary does and again at 5k just before the famed rod bearing went. After that I went through 2 more motors. One motor went about 400 miles and toasted the rod bearing and then the next one lasted one weekend and broke the end of the crank off on the last day. I am starting to think that most of my failures was due to the primary that was put on just before 5k.
