Still Overheating! Help!

[chunkysoup]

when you did the rad delete, did you just loop it back around with a reducer in the tube to block off flow? when i bought my 9 the previous owner used the slp rad kit i think and just looped the hose. i dont have scratchers yet but i had a hard time keeping it cool. the slp kit has a 1/4" hole that still lets coolant through, recirclulating hot coolent. i took out the t and put in a straight pipe on the hose that comes out of the head and put in a 1" pvc cap inside a hose and blocked off the bottle hose. eliminating the loop all together. seems to work so far. scratchers are on there way but taking the dead loop out helped me.

Yeah i did the slp rad delete so it had the little restrictor in it and it was getting hot last year so this year i removed the restrictor thinking it would get a little more flow. I was wrong so removing the loop is on my to do list when i get home.

 

[Treeslut]

ya just plug that bottle nipple. with the loop the coolant will take the path of lest resistance witch would be threw the loop and not the cooler. That's why u are getting so hot, but u will still need scratchers.

 

[94fordguy]

Yeah i did the slp rad delete so it had the little restrictor in it and it was getting hot last year so this year i removed the restrictor thinking it would get a little more flow. I was wrong so removing the loop is on my to do list when i get home.

Well there's your problem, with the restrictor removed, your just cycling the hot coolant back into the motor. Take that loop out of the system completely, plug that hose, and you will be golden with a set of scratchers.

 

[Chevyho]

144 track with 171 studs. I used 50/50 premix. The radiator is gone. Was thinking about maybe going with a cooler thermostat. What do you think? Isnt whats in it stock like a 145 or 150 or something?

What makes you think that the thermo is a 145 or 150? Thermostats do go bad, its quite common. When you first start the sled and let it warm up does the temp slowly climb to about 124, then drop down to 120 then continue to climb? I would start it and just let it idle and let the temp continue to climb until it drops down a few degrees, just to see where it is opening. Also might not be fully openening, does it hold a steady high temp? Just some thoughts, had a similar problem last year, the thermostat was stuck part way open. Good Luck.

 

[BIGGDAWG]

Well there's your problem, with the restrictor removed, your just cycling the hot coolant back into the motor. Take that loop out of the system completely, plug that hose, and you will be golden with a set of scratchers.

yep what he said. if you removed the restrictor and still have the loop in there that is your whole problem. i still would get scratchers but you have to eliminate that loop and plug both ends.

 

[chunkysoup]

What makes you think that the thermo is a 145 or 150? Thermostats do go bad, its quite common. When you first start the sled and let it warm up does the temp slowly climb to about 124, then drop down to 120 then continue to climb? I would start it and just let it idle and let the temp continue to climb until it drops down a few degrees, just to see where it is opening. Also might not be fully openening, does it hold a steady high temp? Just some thoughts, had a similar problem last year, the thermostat was stuck part way open. Good Luck.

I got the idea from an old polaris mechanic but he wasnt sure. It doesnt seem to cool down really at all when it reaches 120 so im not sure whats going on. It wont hold a temp at all. It just keeps rising until i shut it off. yesterday i was riding and saw the temp at 202 so i stopped and shut it off and piled the snow on the cooler and rails. When i fired the sled back up the temp light was on and the temp read 223 but went down almost instantly. Im gonna get a new thermostat and new coolant cap and remove that looped hose. And i will see how that does while my scratchers are on order. If it is still running to hot after that i just may drill a couple holes in the thermostat to help keep it a little cooler.

 

[JesseJames]

yep what he said. if you removed the restrictor and still have the loop in there that is your whole problem. i still would get scratchers but you have to eliminate that loop and plug both ends.

I agree with these guys. Get rid of the loop, and put scratchers on. Alot of times just putting one scratcher down is all I need to get it cooled down.

 

[Chevyho]

Does it cool down at all when you through snow on the cooler? Do what others have said and then see what happens.

 

[chunkysoup]

Does it cool down at all when you through snow on the cooler? Do what others have said and then see what happens.

yeah it cools down but it wont come down below 170 with just snow on the cooler and rails!

 

[polarispunk09]

I just got back from a long couple days of hard riding in the Hurley, Ironwood area and it was awesome.. But to get to the point, instead of deleting the rad i changed the cooling system from the par. to the series circuit.. No matter where i rode whether in deep snow hard packed trail or on bare ice lakes i never got over 136.. Couldnt ask for anything better.. That was with no scratchers..

 

[rmk2112]

yep what he said. if you removed the restrictor and still have the loop in there that is your whole problem. i still would get scratchers but you have to eliminate that loop and plug both ends.

I had a SLP airbox put in and my rad removed.
Am I to understand that everything involved with the radiator needs to be removed and just have 2 lines - inlet and outlet @ the water pump to move the coolant up and back the running boards thru the rear heat exchanger?

 

[BIGGDAWG]

here is a diagram. but when you remove the radiator i install a splice and remove the y that is in the hose. and i just plug the coolant bottle nipple.

 

[rmk2112]

Thanks, that's too easy.
Also, I work a lot better with pictures!!

Now I just gotta get under there and see if the dealer did it right. There should only be 2 hoses coming outta the bottle, correct?

 

[rideharder]

yes only 2, they are at the bottom of your bottle on a 05 not sure on 06. on mine it was hard to see the 2 lines on the bottom but the top one on the front side is the one you want to block off. also when you eliminate the tee you will want a conector that is 3"-4" longer than the one slp gives you. if you use the slp conector the line out of the head will rub on the y pipe and eventualy burn/wear through. if you go over the 3-4" it will rub on the pipe and eventualy wear out the coating on the pipe or throught the hose. hope this helps

 

[chunkysoup]

So i deleted that loop and checked my thermostat. Thermostat was junk. It was like it exploded! It was bent and was about an inch longer than it should be. Took your advice and bled the system about 4 times and now it runs around 140 without scratchers but im not exactly on harder packed trails at the time. Hopefully we got her taken care of! Thanks for all the help!

 

[rideharder]

no problem, glad to help. hope it all works out for you

 

[rmk2112]

So...............I started up the sled, took the bottle cap off and watched for the thermostat to open and see movement of coolant in the bottle. T-stat opened on cue at about 122 and I saw good movement in the bottle. Ran it for a bit with the cap off like was mentioned earlier to see if there was any bubbles in the system and if so, bleed them out. While doing this the coolant level was at/near the top of the bottle and I got a few burps and vibration bubbles, then at about 130 I looked down and the bottle level had dropped about 2"!!! I still had good movement of fluid, just at a lower level.

Did I just burp out a BIG air bubble?

It had been running a bit on the hot side and I dont know if the dealer burped the system when they took out the rad and motor earlier this year....this is the same dealer who left a huge bubble in the oil line and just about burned me down after a new top end was installed.

 

[High Velocity]

If the coolant level suddenly dropped a couple inches and there's no leaks, then your sled likely did burp out more air. When bleed my cooling system, I like to get the front end of the sled at least two to three feet higher than the rear of the sled (sled deck ramp works perfect). This helps ensure that you've gotten all the trapped air out of the rear cooler.