Starting to get the Pro in suitable shape for this season
- Thread starter MikeMetzger
- Start date
Blanket statement about no alu-rivets I have to disagree on. Stainless steel rivets if it is pop rivets, ok. I would probably go that way to.
But lately I've mostly used blind aluminum rivets and have to say I feel safe doing it. They come from a shop that builds mod sleds for a living.
The goal in the end is bonding strength and a larger number of small, weaker, rivets would equal fewer bigger rivets. Add some adhesive between the plates and I'm certain everything would break before the two plates separate.
Keep up the good work Mike, get that b!t#h on the snow and show us the meaning of "no guts - no glory!".
Rune
But lately I've mostly used blind aluminum rivets and have to say I feel safe doing it. They come from a shop that builds mod sleds for a living.
The goal in the end is bonding strength and a larger number of small, weaker, rivets would equal fewer bigger rivets. Add some adhesive between the plates and I'm certain everything would break before the two plates separate.
Keep up the good work Mike, get that b!t#h on the snow and show us the meaning of "no guts - no glory!".
Rune
Ya no aluminum rivets in structural locations.
If you really want to do it right for piecing odd structural stuff together especially if there's some oval holes from drilling out old rivets get some solid aircraft rivets. Huck rivets I believe they're called.
Do you have an air compressor? If so then all you need is a cheap air hammer and the rivet tool. About $60 for both.
They are awesome. Buy a couple bags of 3/16 in different lengths.
It's all I've used for repairing sled tunnels for years.
Btw cool project and good deal on it. To the folks giving u crap about aesthetics you can have just as much fun regardless of how it looks.
If you really want to do it right for piecing odd structural stuff together especially if there's some oval holes from drilling out old rivets get some solid aircraft rivets. Huck rivets I believe they're called.
Do you have an air compressor? If so then all you need is a cheap air hammer and the rivet tool. About $60 for both.
They are awesome. Buy a couple bags of 3/16 in different lengths.
It's all I've used for repairing sled tunnels for years.
Btw cool project and good deal on it. To the folks giving u crap about aesthetics you can have just as much fun regardless of how it looks.
Thanks for the info on the rivets, it definitely makes sense. I could see aluminum rivets possibly having issues due to their soft nature. For some reason I was thinking steel rivets would have issues with rusting or something like that, I dont know, brain farting I guess.
Hopefully Ill have the sled back together this week.
Still no insight on the left side support. Im curious if these common buckles are due to pressure from the drive axle to the rear over structure, or the drive axle to the front skid mount..........
Hopefully Ill have the sled back together this week.
Still no insight on the left side support. Im curious if these common buckles are due to pressure from the drive axle to the rear over structure, or the drive axle to the front skid mount..........
S
sledneck_03
Well-known member
I put my mod rod boards on with aluminum rivets. 2 years and they are loose.
Cool post, keep the pics coming! Anybody can buy a new sled, pull, and go. Not everybody can fix a sled, nevermind fabricate new parts from scratch. In my opinion, you also appreciate it more.
That is really good to know! Im sure those runner boards see a ton of flex though.
So it sounds like steel rivets it is, but what about this aerospace glue some people are talking about. A where would I get some and be is it necessary?
More pics to come this week.
PS also on a side note, scored an awesome deal on a GoPro Black Edition, specifically for its 120fps ability. Snagged a quick shot of my dog jumping for bubbles. And Im reeeeeeally impressed with how well it worked! This season will make for some amazing edits! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2g7a2-Qkz0
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