I plan to replace my spring cup with bushing, but hoping you can shed some light on if that is what is causing this stamping between cup and governor.
Spring cup and bushing
- Thread starter JedInUtah
- Start date
Those marks are made when the engine is running and the spring cover touches the the governor cup. At idle rpm the sliding sheave displaces back and forth (vibrating) due to the inertia observed at each piston pulse (twice) per revolution. The sliding sheave displaces back and forth due to torque button spring fitness / clearance between the torque buttons and sliding sheave button galley / spline shaft to gov cup fitness.
....when you get excessive wear, time to change out the torque button springs and or refurbish the parts at those 3 connecting points.
If you want to prove this, remove the torque button o-rings and start the engine and listen to the clutch as it idles. Then remove clutch and install 3 sets of new 0-rings and again start engine and listen to the noise at idle.
The moment the engine is brought up to any rpm higher than engagement rpm the spring cup moves away from the governor cup, sliding towards the engine, upshifting.
....when you get excessive wear, time to change out the torque button springs and or refurbish the parts at those 3 connecting points.
If you want to prove this, remove the torque button o-rings and start the engine and listen to the clutch as it idles. Then remove clutch and install 3 sets of new 0-rings and again start engine and listen to the noise at idle.
The moment the engine is brought up to any rpm higher than engagement rpm the spring cup moves away from the governor cup, sliding towards the engine, upshifting.
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Thanks Joey. I did just replace buttons and o-rings cause I had that idle "rattle" in my clutch. The stamping could have been from before and I just didn't notice. 3600 miles on the clutch so new spring, buttons, orings, springs, new spring cup and bushing. Hopefully that tightens things up.
