Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Spider nut torque?

Spider nut worn

Has anybody else had the clutch spring wear on the spider nut? I just took a picture but not sure how well you will be able to see what I am talking about. I think I better order a new one before sending the clutch out for balancing.

IMAG0773.jpg
 
Every sled I have ever owned the spider nut wears like that. Beeing that close to the center will not really affect balance. But good idea to change it anyway when they get that bad.
 
I am going to be sending it off to have the balance checked anyway, so I guess I will add that to my parts to buy list.
 
Re-assembly question?

Ok, got the clutch back after the dealer went through it and got it cleaned and serviced for me, one thing I need to know.

I have the crank taper about as clean as I think I am gonna get it, I don't really wanna get too crazy as it is 15*F out and I don't want anything to freeze before I can dry it off, but my question now is concerning the inside of the crank taper where the bolt actually threads in.

I used grease on the tip of the puller to get the clutch off, and I have spent a lil time getting as much of it out as I can with Q-tips, but how important is this step? I realize perfectly clean would be ideal to make sure the bolt doesn't have any lube in there where it will allow it to back off. Any tips of ways to get the last little bit of grease out or do you think it will be ok? Should I get some hot, soapy water in a spray bottle to try to help get it cleaned up?

Thanks.
 
Ok, got the clutch back after the dealer went through it and got it cleaned and serviced for me, one thing I need to know.

I have the crank taper about as clean as I think I am gonna get it, I don't really wanna get too crazy as it is 15*F out and I don't want anything to freeze before I can dry it off, but my question now is concerning the inside of the crank taper where the bolt actually threads in.

I used grease on the tip of the puller to get the clutch off, and I have spent a lil time getting as much of it out as I can with Q-tips, but how important is this step? I realize perfectly clean would be ideal to make sure the bolt doesn't have any lube in there where it will allow it to back off. Any tips of ways to get the last little bit of grease out or do you think it will be ok? Should I get some hot, soapy water in a spray bottle to try to help get it cleaned up?



Thanks.

Seth... I'm not impressed!!!!
You have been riding already, and whats was it? like a 2 day turnaround to get your clutch worked on?! grrrrr mines been out for almost 2 months now.
I think your fine, so long as the bulk of the grease is gone (so the clutch bolt does not hydraulic when installed)
 
Seth... I'm not impressed!!!!
You have been riding already, and whats was it? like a 2 day turnaround to get your clutch worked on?! grrrrr mines been out for almost 2 months now.
I think your fine, so long as the bulk of the grease is gone (so the clutch bolt does not hydraulic when installed)

Sorry, lol I just had my local dealer do the service, not a balance or anything, just told em to shim it for the 1115, clean it, and put it back together, they wound up throwing new weights in it while they were working on it (I think they were still fine, but whatever) I can tell just looking at it that the sheaves are closer together now:eek::D

I decided not to do a half azz cleaning job, I microwaved some already hot water and threw in some hand soap into a spray bottle (could barely hold onto the bottle it was so freaking hot:eek:) It really is too important to rush through... I just hate WORKING in the freezing cold, but it's better than being stranded. Time to get back out there, came in to get some more Q-tips and reheat the water, lol.

Thanks for the re-assurance on the grease, I think I have practically all of it out, the Q-tips are coming out black instead of green now, lol... gonna grab a set of needle nose pliers and go a little deeper before I call it good, lol.:D
 
Try a heat gun on the clutch next time and use brakekleen to clean out threads.That was how I do it.Good luck hope the water dos'nt freeze in the shaft.Hope to be riding saturday
 
Got it back together, cleaned it out and got as much water out as I could with plenty of Q-tips, I'm not worried, put it back on, torqued it, ran it up to 150* (engine temp said 14* at startup, the coldest I have ever seen) spun the track a few times, torqued it again, ran it another few minutes, checked the torque again, and I'm happy for now till I get a chance to ride it a lil.

Was funny how quiet the sled was at first, not a single shimmy, squeak, rattle or anything, all the panels were frozen stiff... was kinda neat:laugh: After 15 minutes run time it once again sounded like the 900 I know and love, HAHAHA.
 
Got it back together, cleaned it out and got as much water out as I could with plenty of Q-tips, I'm not worried, put it back on, torqued it, ran it up to 150* (engine temp said 14* at startup, the coldest I have ever seen) spun the track a few times, torqued it again, ran it another few minutes, checked the torque again, and I'm happy for now till I get a chance to ride it a lil.

Was funny how quiet the sled was at first, not a single shimmy, squeak, rattle or anything, all the panels were frozen stiff... was kinda neat:laugh: After 15 minutes run time it once again sounded like the 900 I know and love, HAHAHA.

You should be good for another 3000 miles now eh?:tape2:
 
Premium Features



Back
Top