Some Summer Watch Out Things to look for on your 900's

[06 RMK 900]

Would these be it???

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pola...215713QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pola...995563QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[mountainhorse]

Looks like it... you might want to check out the WPS-inc.com online catalog to confirm part numbers.

Also,

You can check with " Free agent" on here to get her price on the parts you need... she has given me better prices than any of the online parts housed.

PM her or call her, Michelle, at (541) 523 - 3500

She can also give great prices on WPS products as well.

Group Order for you guys??

 

[06 RMK 900]

Looks like it... you might want to check out the WPS-inc.com online catalog to confirm part numbers.

Also,

You can check with " Free agent" on here to get her price on the parts you need... she has given me better prices than any of the online parts housed.

PM her or call her, Michelle, at (541) 523 - 3500

She can also give great prices on WPS products as well.

Group Order for you guys??

Sounds good to me I wouldn't mind getting all the bearings if the price is right. Was going to replace them all when I had it all apart from the little rock I hit but didn't have the cash for polaris bearings. But with close to 2000 miles on it probally should change them for preventive measures.

Sorry we kinda highjacked your thread guido.

 

[guidoxpress]

the driveshaft and jackshaft bearing kit from ALL BALLZ is $49.90 for both kits with everything needed.

p/n# 141-9005 $20.95 (jack shaft kit)
p/n# 141-9006 $28.95 (drive shaft kit)

kits include every seal, bearing, clip that is needed from jack shaft to chaincase upper and from drive shaft to chaincase lower.

 

[06 RMK 900]

the driveshaft and jackshaft bearing kit from ALL BALLZ is $49.90 for both kits with everything needed.

p/n# 141-9005 $20.95 (jack shaft kit)
p/n# 141-9006 $28.95 (drive shaft kit)

kits include every seal, bearing, clip that is needed from jack shaft to chaincase upper and from drive shaft to chaincase lower.

WOW thats a good price, any deal if we get a group order, either way I would take a set for that price?

 

[05900]

Just wanted to tell M.H,Guido and 06 thank you guys for spending the time to research this it is nice to know we have options to keep the 900's alive.

 

[guidoxpress]

WOW thats a good price, any deal if we get a group order, either way I would take a set for that price?

not sure on that...you can order them from alot of different places..and it would be hard to get more then just a few guys to get an order in...unfortunately, some guys think if its not broken, dont replace it put it this way...the driveshaft bearing on the PTO side, behind the speedo housing....is $38 from polaris ALONE

might just be worth buying the kits at the price above, lol..

Just wanted to tell M.H,Guido and 06 thank you guys for spending the time to research this it is nice to know we have options to keep the 900's alive.

your more then welcome...i enjoy helping others and i know MH and 06 does just the same as i do...

plus anything to save a buck here and keep my sleds up and tree pounding..i am game!!

this is the kind of thread i wanted it to be...inputs on what to look for, ways to fix them, and places to get the parts for a good deal (if not through polaris)

 

[Tir3Tops]

hey guys great tips, thoughts, but here in minnesota we fish & drink beer in summer time, & your cuttting into my fishin'... & beer money too!!

 

[J.Jensen]

Another quick, easy and CHEAP preventive maintenence tip:

Replace your spindle bushings. They're $3 a piece delrin bushings
(at least for my Holz) and if they are OK now, they won't be halfway through next season.

I learned from my thread on the subject that they wear out, move in towards the center of the spindle, the edge load on them increases, they wear even faster and start wearing out the spindle itself...

 

[05900]

They also do this on the stock spindles although not quite as fast due to them being metal composite also ck rubber ski bushing under spindle as they may seperate at an inopurtune time.....

 

[guidoxpress]

MH posted this in another thread...and i also posted it in the summer mod/maintenance thread...but this is also a fitting place for the great info..

I'm a fan of replacing all the jackshaft/driveshaft/chaincase bearings every 2000 miles... especially on a turbo sled that makes double the HP of a stocker.

The power commander is good.

2 seasons... time for a new thermostat (watch that you align it correctly) and new coolant. Vacuum out ALL of the old stuff. (shop vac)

Change both primary and secondary clutch springs (wait till the beginning of the season for this)... Make damn sure that the belt side clearance is correct and the deflection is good, pull apart the primary and secondary, add 2 delrin washers under the spring cup in the secondary.

I'm a big fan of getting the primary fully brought up to spec, balanced, shimmed for the belt and all bushings replaced that are questionable.

Pull out the skid... change the Hyfax if needed, check all bearings for smooth operation, pull the pivot shafts and clean out the old grease and gunk... tighten all the bolts and make sure there is no slop in the scissor mechanism.

MAKE SURE TO USE GREASE THAT IS COMPATIBLE WITH THE COLD WEATHER. I prefer Red Line CV -2 synthetic grease.. it keeps its viscosity even when cold... you would not believe how poorly a skid functions that has regular grease in it when it is cold out... and a suspension really does not get the chance to "warm up" much.

Switch out to the 47 degree springs that were outlined in the "big boy" spring thread on here ... regardless of your weight ( I weigh 170 with gear... I used the 47 degree .359 springs and this made the suspension better for mountain riding.

Inspect all body work rivets and replace any that are loose.

Tighten the steering hoop bolts,... grease the steering post bearing.

Replace the PTO front bolt as outlined in the forums here... I would not be surprised if it were broken already.

Set your TPS dead-on.

Check your wiring harness CAREFULLY for any chaffing.

Clean the entire under hood area.

Change out the top sprocket in the chaincase and thoroughly clean out the chain case. Inspect the tensioner block and replace if necessary.

2yrs old... replace the brake fluid.

Change the fuel filter.

Change the oil filter if you have more than 1500 miles on the sled.

Pull the tank, check the throttle body boots for cracking, clean the back side of the motor... If you have the extra $75 ... send in your injectors for cleaning and flow checking.

I'd run the Power Commander without a doubt... Polaris has to meet EPA stds... you do not. This is where the reliability issues came up, IMO.

Lift your sled, pull the skis and pivot bolts and grease the heck out of them and the pivot spacers with quality synth grease... check the ball joints and rod ends for slop... replace as necessary...

Put the effort into careful setup of both toe in/out and camber settings... this will pay off in spades.

Send your shocks back to Walker Evans or Fast Trax for service/recharge.. the 2009's have the most current valve specs and pistons in them...but they will also check other parts for wear n tear and replace them if necessary.

Make sure that the grip heater cables are not rubbed thru and that they haven't had the connections on the film messed up at the grips themselves.

Replace your grips if worn out.

Tighten your track to Factory specs when you put it back together.

Add a second pair of hood straps to protect your investment if you roll the sled

Replace your Exhaust Valve Springs with WHITE ones from SLP

 

[mountainhorse]

One thing that I left out... If you re torqe a bolt that has locktite on it... you will need to remove the bolt and re-locktite it... you destroyed the bond when you moved the bolt.

Suspension bolts get red locktite.

 

[guidoxpress]

any more things to add to this thread...

i have yet to order the driveshaft/jackshaft bearing kits...but will need to soon..so i will report back when i do..

going over my 05 900 here soon..need to pull motor out...so i will report on that as well..

post up to help others if you have info to add, or things to look out for before season...

--check throttle body boots for cracks
--check exhaust bellows for holes
--replace exhuast valve springs if over 2 yrs old
--replace clutch springs (BOTH clutches) if over 2 yrs old
--replace clutch weight bushings every season or 2 seasons
--replace fuel filter every season
--replace oil filter every season

 

[Bbender4]

Just bought a 9 my first fuel injected sled. Previous owner didn't run any stabilizer through it. It's been sitting all summer, is there anything I can run through it to clean the injectors? Any advice?

 

[guidoxpress]

Just bought a 9 my first fuel injected sled. Previous owner didn't run any stabilizer through it. It's been sitting all summer, is there anything I can run through it to clean the injectors? Any advice?

you can run SeaFoam or stabil...or any fuel injector cleaner...just dont get carried away with a ton of it in your tank...its easier to just have a few gallons of gas at most in your tank and mix the cleaner/stabil in it then...

also...

since your new to the 900...go through the threads here and start your pre-season checking and preventive maintenance...(read through the 700/900 before you buy thread)

lots to learn, and lots to do..but when done...YOU'LL LOVE THAT BABIES POWER!!

 

[guidoxpress]

didnt see it above..unless im blind...could be from branches smacking my face

its a GREAT idea to replace your Primary Clutch BOLT every SEASON or at the MAX every 2 seasons...

with the extreme tension that the bolt takes when being torqued to the 96ft lbs, the bolt will eventually stretch...ecspecially if you removed your clutch more then 3x in one season....and if you re-torqured the bolt to get it to spec after the inital setting

 

[Bbender4]

Yeah got a smoking deal on the sled w 800 miles on it three weeks ago. Found this forum AFTER I picked it up so I've been workin like crazy to get it ship shape; slp tourque arm/stop, slp air box,rad delete mbrp silencer,scratchers,air vents to keep everything cool.Goin through bolts now and putting silicone or locktight on everything I find loose. Wouldve been lost without the forum tho thanks for all the great info!

 

[94fordguy]

didnt see it above..unless im blind...could be from branches smacking my face

its a GREAT idea to replace your Primary Clutch BOLT every SEASON or at the MAX every 2 seasons...

with the extreme tension that the bolt takes when being torqued to the 96ft lbs, the bolt will eventually stretch...ecspecially if you removed your clutch more then 3x in one season....and if you re-torqured the bolt to get it to spec after the inital setting

I would definitely say EVERY season... They do and WILL snap with the tension they are under eventually... The last thing you want is to be in the mountains at the bottom of a climb that you cant be towed out of and have that bolt let go....

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215810

 

[guidoxpress]

the driveshaft and jackshaft bearing kit from ALL BALLZ is $49.90 for both kits with everything needed.

p/n# 141-9005 $20.95 (jack shaft kit)
p/n# 141-9006 $28.95 (drive shaft kit)

kits include every seal, bearing, clip that is needed from jack shaft to chaincase upper and from drive shaft to chaincase lower.

i just ordered these ^^ from my dealer through Western Power Sports...total was about $49..if you bought these seperate through polaris you would spend around $100..

will keep you posted when i recieve the kit next week...

 

[Danbot]

"p/n# 141-9005 $20.95 (jack shaft kit)"

I just put this set in my sled, no complaints. Bearings look quality, and I like that their stuff is sold in kits. Kinda like the Pivot Works kits I get for my mx bikes.

This is a great thread, I did alot of the work suggested here on my 900 this month. A big thanks for the gas tank bolt relocation tip... no more pressure on the wiring!