Smart carb egt's

[the gman]

Randy I would like to offer a different scenario we have noticed. Some of our group have rode all summer with the smarty and Never had a flooding issue. I am running a 40 on my 500 and ran a 38 on my 300 modded bike then switched to the 40. What we have noticed is after a good warming of the bike and it is shut down we end up flooded. This has happened since the install of the avid heater. The heater works great for stopping carb ice, but I beleive after shutting off the motor the heat migrates to the float bowl and with the floating balls in the tip over valves sometimes stuck closed, the rising temp of the fuel expanding flows fuel up the noozle flooding the motor. Apt had problems with this because of a tapered upper tip over valves seat that was supposed to be flat...like a washer. I have removed the tip over valves on both of my 40 billets and they both have the old tapered uppers. I have removed the floaties,at my own risk, and am betting my flooding will go away. My 38 I sent back I am betting had the tapered seats also. Imo the floaties are not needed as IF the float seat sticks open, the floaties will stop the fuel flow from the vent lines, but fuel will still flow out the noozle, flooding the motor. On a side note when filling the float bowl off the bike with the slide removed to check fuel level, fuel would squirt up through the nozzle with the choke closed. After removal of the floaties you could fill the float bowl without the choke on and the noozle showed no fuel. Will let you know if this works soon. Garry

 

[mtn-doo]

I agree Gary. Corey and I discussed that scenario last week. We were thinking possibly the warm carb and bowl from the heater "might" warm and push fuel up through the nozzle by expansion after the hot bike is shut down. We cannot post anything positive yet, but will find the gremlin soon. I have a stack of little green balls from doing the same on my personal bikes. I have not seen this before.... The expansion of fuel from the warm bowl may be what it is. Corey did report some inconsistencies with the new 3.5 needle and seat, sticking open and/or closed from non heated bikes elsewhere in the world. It will get nailed very soon.

 

[portgrinder]

egts are best used in conjunction with checking plugs. just egts alone is not the best.

hold your motor at a given rpm, temp and load. kill it and check the plug.

thats the only way you know for sure.

the idea is to understand what your plug looks like at a given egt.

 

[J800]

Are you getting the same tuning results with the cast 38?

 

[mtn-doo]

egts are best used in conjunction with checking plugs. just egts alone is not the best.

hold your motor at a given rpm, temp and load. kill it and check the plug.

thats the only way you know for sure.

the idea is to understand what your plug looks like at a given egt.

Yes guys, be sure to be checking your plugs as you get dialed in. I like three pulls with a steady RPM. One low, one mid, and one WOT. Immediately shut down and check without any extra idleing or blipping of the throttle. Plug color and EGT combined will show you exactly where you are. You can cross reference your EGT's backwards based on plug color. Your perfect color may be 1190 egt as an example. Then 1190 is your number based on color.

This testing with fuel rods has been done on 38 and 40 Billets. No cast. If you have a cast you can follow the same procedure and find the rod that dials you in. Once you have your rod chosen, mid range and wot plug color and egt, then you set your pilot adjustment. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask. Don't spend too much time dialing your pilot adjustment until you find your rod. The fuel rod is 1/3 throttle up to wot. You need to find that first. All rod's can be set for a clean idle afterwards.