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slp torque arm or boost-it motor mounts

T

thewayout

Member
anybody have feed back on the motor mounts from boost-it. Thinking it might be a good idea to get the 800 tied down a bit better. would Installing a torque arm do the trick or better to go with mounts.
 
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I have the fire n ice torque arm (very similar to slp) and It helped a lot. I'm doing the boost it ones as well though. Figure it can't hurt to have it anchored in there better.
 
$189 ?! Wow!

Might want to ask if they are urethane? What Duro?


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Ill say its a must for a high HP sled, saves on your mounts no matter if there stock or after market. I also say it saves, and prolongs your belt life. Im sold on them. I choose SLP.
 
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ttt


Anyone have any feedback on the "Boost It" engine mounts or any other aftermarket mount for that matter???

Are others noticing, what seems to be, an excessive amount of play/movement/clearance between the "Mount, Engine Insert Rad" & the actual engine mount on their machines???

The rear torque link appears to maintain respectable clutch alignment but there is still significant vertical(up & down) movement of the engine...................Thoughts???
 
If there is significant up and down motor movement then your mounts are shot. See suitcase's response for how to avoid in the future. I always put in a torque arm for my new sleds and have yet to replace any motor mounts. Custom aftermarket mounts are not preventatives but good replacements for trashed OEM mounts and nothing more IMHO.

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
If there is significant up and down motor movement then your mounts are shot. See suitcase's response for how to avoid in the future. I always put in a torque arm for my new sleds and have yet to replace any motor mounts. Custom aftermarket mounts are not preventatives but good replacements for trashed OEM mounts and nothing more IMHO.

Have FUN!

G MAN


Thanks,


Just to clarify, the movement we are seeing is simply the clearance between the O.D. of the outer limiter bushing or the "Mount, Engine Insert Rad", as Polaris calls it, and the I.D. of the actual motor mount.................We do not have new mounts(or a new sled with new mounts) to compare to but it appears that the actual engine mounts may be manufactured with a soft/flexible rubber/compound & they are relying on the outer bushings to limit total movement of the entire mount assy..............or it could just be that our mounts are worn out???


We've definitely considered the SLP mount as we've used them on other machines before with success, however the factory rear torque link that is used on this arrangement would seem to negate the benefit of the SLP mount unless, of course, the rear torque link was worn out to begin with..............Installing the SLP mount would certainly limit horizontal(front to back) movement but it will do little or nothing to prevent vertical movement.............



Just wondering if anyone has checked their mounts & noticed the amount of vertical movement being proportional to the amount of clearance between the outer limiter bushing & the actual mount???
 
Thanks,


We've definitely considered the SLP mount as we've used them on other machines before with success, however the factory rear torque link that is used on this arrangement would seem to negate the benefit of the SLP mount unless, of course, the rear torque link was worn out to begin with..............Installing the SLP mount would certainly limit horizontal(front to back) movement but it will do little or nothing to prevent vertical movement.............

Not true - the motor twists up and back (and that is WITH the rear torque arm properly adjusted) under hard power. SLP setup eliminates that. Take a circle chain loop and tension it from the two vertical sides then tell me it doesn't affect the horizontal plane of motion!

Also the '11's had known motor mount issues so that's what DD is getting at I'm sure.

Have FUN!

G MAN
 
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The 11's can be updated with a kit to the 12's

Also, Fastrax makes a killer billet mounting plate that works great, especially for higher HP.
 
Merlin, are you talking about an '11 or '12??

Dave,


We've noticed this issue with both '11 & '12 - both machines under 1000miles..............The '11 has not had the updated bushing/bolt kit installed yet but seeing the amount of play that is in the '12 I'm not convinced that it is the answer(for reducing play)..............I suppose the kit does address the broken bolt issue that some people had............


Thoughts???
 
Not true - the motor twists up and back (and that is WITH the rear torque arm properly adjusted) under hard power. SLP setup eliminates that. Take a circle chain loop and tension it from the two vertical sides then tell me it doesn't affect the horizontal plane of motion!

Also the '11's had known motor mount issues so that's what DD is getting at I'm sure.

Have FUN!

G MAN


What adjustment to the rear torque link are you referring to???


Please re-read my post, I agreed that the SLP mount would limit horizontal movement but would do little for vertical movement....................
 
Also, Fastrax makes a killer billet mounting plate that works great, especially for higher HP.

I've had an eye that set-up for awhile..............It is, no doubt, the best solution out there............

Unfortunately, it's a just a tad too expensive! :face-icon-small-win
 
anybody have feed back on the motor mounts from boost-it.

Just checking in to see if anyone has installed a set of the mounts from Boost It yet???

If so, a couple of questions:

1/ What is the durometer or at least how do they compare to the factory mounts for firmness???

2/ What type of fit do they have in relationship to the motor mount bore??? I.E. clearance, size on size, or interference???


Thanks in advance,


Glen
 
Just checking in to see if anyone has installed a set of the mounts from Boost It yet???

If so, a couple of questions:

1/ What is the durometer or at least how do they compare to the factory mounts for firmness???

2/ What type of fit do they have in relationship to the motor mount bore??? I.E. clearance, size on size, or interference???


Thanks in advance,


Glen
Hey Glen,

The duro rating is 75 and the inserts are stainless. They are much stiffer than the factory mounts, but do not seem to really add any vibration at idle. We were killing belts with our turbo pro's so this had to be done in our opinion.

The clearance is similar to the factory bushing, and they move in and out of the socket very easy.
Our intention was to build these just for our turbo kit customers, but I had many requests from people so I thought we would offwe them up for sale.
In Canada the OEM belt is 200.00 so if they save one belt they are paid for.

photo (2).jpg
 
I installed a set last night. Two of the four stock mounts were fairly warn with one season stock and one with a turbo. I installed a torque arm with the turbo too. The mounts went in very easily, took all of about 10 minutes to install, and are defiantly a stronger rubber than the stockers.
 
Hey Glen,

The duro rating is 75 and the inserts are stainless. They are much stiffer than the factory mounts, but do not seem to really add any vibration at idle. We were killing belts with our turbo pro's so this had to be done in our opinion.

The clearance is similar to the factory bushing, and they move in and out of the socket very easy.
Our intention was to build these just for our turbo kit customers, but I had many requests from people so I thought we would offwe them up for sale.
In Canada the OEM belt is 200.00 so if they save one belt they are paid for.

Thanks, I appreciate the info.!

The factory arrangement certainly leaves alot to be desired....................

Are you using some type of an addtional torque arm(I.E. SLP) on your machines as well???
 
Thanks, I appreciate the info.!

The factory arrangement certainly leaves alot to be desired....................

Are you using some type of an addtional torque arm(I.E. SLP) on your machines as well???
We only run the motor mounts. The stock torque stop will keep the clutches in alignment and the mounts hold the motor in place much better than the oem bushings.
Cant be any harm in running another torque stop though.
Just put a pry bar under the recoil and give it a little lift, it's amazing how much the motor moves.
 
We only run the motor mounts. The stock torque stop will keep the clutches in alignment and the mounts hold the motor in place much better than the oem bushings.
Cant be any harm in running another torque stop though.
Just put a pry bar under the recoil and give it a little lift, it's amazing how much the motor moves.

No kidding, we were shocked when checked ours!:face-icon-small-sho


Thanks for the reply!


Glen
 
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