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Slp stage 3 kit need help video attached

stocksucks!!

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http://youtu.be/WjYv3L034bw

Mean bog starts around 6000rpm to 6800 after that she runs strong. From dead stop to wot no hesitation pulls the whole way through.
Sled is a 2013 rmk pro 163 riding at 3500 ft the kit I have is 3000-6000 ft
I have everything slp gave me installed except there intake but I was only riding in 8"-12" snow so I don't think that's the matter. First ride of the year sucked all the old fuel out put in fresh non eth 91. What could it be??

http://youtu.be/WjYv3L034bw
 
It was hard to tell from the vid, but could it be that you are running that sled a bit lean?
 
http://youtu.be/WjYv3L034bw

Mean bog starts around 6000rpm to 6800 after that she runs strong. From dead stop to wot no hesitation pulls the whole way through.
Sled is a 2013 rmk pro 163 riding at 3500 ft the kit I have is 3000-6000 ft
I have everything slp gave me installed except there intake but I was only riding in 8"-12" snow so I don't think that's the matter. First ride of the year sucked all the old fuel out put in fresh non eth 91. What could it be??

http://youtu.be/WjYv3L034bw

That upper midrange location tends to be a common area to run lean. I would make sure everything is proper with the PCV
Did you sync the PCV to the TPS when you installed it? or did you just plug it in with the stage 3 map on it?
 
If your TPS base setting is off to start with and you calibrate your PCV to a TPS that is off all settings will be off and can cause a bog
 
I just unpackaged the kit and installed it. I did notice that going from reverse to forward it would die so I think the tps is out. So once I get my tps adjusted. How do I calibrate it with the power commander
 
Also slp told me that the map is loaded and ready to go

Yes the map will be loaded but u must follow the instructions with the PCV to sync the throttle position at full throttle and get a tps baseline setting. Also, was the sled dying after switching into reverse b4 u put the stage 3 kit on?
 
Ok I will pull out the instructions and check out how to sync that.. Also it never died before the install of the slp stage 3.
 
Stage 3

What is the EGT on that rev? What gas are you using? it should be 1250-1300F if not it is to rich i had a similar problem in Iceland, i was using map tha they thought was right for 0-3000feet but it wasn't so they send me a new map that they thought was to lean but it was perfect, midrange 1250-1300F and full throttle 1230-1250F

Gulli
 
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What is the EGT on that rev? What gas are you using? it should be 1250-1300F if not it is to rich i had a similar problem in Iceland, i was using map tha they thought was right for 0-3000feet but it wasn't so they send me a new map that they thought was to lean but it was perfect, midrange 1250-1300F and full throttle 1230-1250F

Gulli

I found similar results-But i Think we have better fuel
Do you have your egts in the y-pipe?
On the -13s with PAR head/SLP the upper mids are so crazy lean
you get DETonation when you let the throttle off.....
We had to add fuel+1s in offthrottle @ 6700>8500 in low throttlepos.

Edvard
 
What is the EGT on that rev? What gas are you using? it should be 1250-1300F if not it is to rich i had a similar problem in Iceland, i was using map tha they thought was right for 0-3000feet but it wasn't so they send me a new map that they thought was to lean but it was perfect, midrange 1250-1300F and full throttle 1230-1250F

Gulli

Respectfully, if anything I was hitting 1250° to 1300° in midrange, I'd be VERY leery of a mid-range burndown in that RPM range.
You're not making as much power there, not sucking in as much air or throwing as much throttle at it...you shouldn't be making those temps there at midrange.

Unless you are REALLY FAT and burning fuel IN the pipe AT the EGT sensor, 1250° is about the upper limit. I'd be really scared of a 1300° reading.

EGT temps are measured out in the pipe. If it's 1250° or 1300° out at 6 to 7" from the piston skirt or cylinder wall, imagine what it is inside the cylinder with those alum pistons. Yes, not all temp probes are the same distance from the cylinder wall or piston skirt...so each sled will vary.

But no matter what, those are high temps and you should checking piston wash and plug burn to see what's going on...you're either too lean or too fat in midrange if you are seeing those temps.

Remember, aluminum MELTS at 1500°.

On my big bore twin, 1155cc, it was VERY happy with mid RPM range temps between 850 to 1050 when running down the trail at mid throttle. Anything above that was either really lean or really fat.
 
Last edited:
http://youtu.be/WjYv3L034bw

Mean bog starts around 6000rpm to 6800 after that she runs strong. From dead stop to wot no hesitation pulls the whole way through.
Sled is a 2013 rmk pro 163 riding at 3500 ft the kit I have is 3000-6000 ft
I have everything slp gave me installed except there intake but I was only riding in 8"-12" snow so I don't think that's the matter. First ride of the year sucked all the old fuel out put in fresh non eth 91. What could it be??

http://youtu.be/WjYv3L034bw

if you want to know if it was going into det mode just and 2 gallons of 110 octane to a full tank of fuel. if the problem goes away you know you are lean. I run a 13 with a dropin kit and slp pipe and it would go into det mode a lot .I now run with one gallon of 110 per tank and have no det issues what so ever. this is a very common thing with the 13s when you mod this motor.
 
Respectfully, if anything I was hitting 1250° to 1300° in midrange, I'd be VERY leery of a mid-range burndown in that RPM range.
You're not making as much power there, not sucking in as much air or throwing as much throttle at it...you shouldn't be making those temps there at midrange.

Unless you are REALLY FAT and burning fuel IN the pipe AT the EGT sensor, 1250° is about the upper limit. I'd be really scared of a 1300° reading.

EGT temps are measured out in the pipe. If it's 1250° or 1300° out at 6 to 7" from the piston skirt or cylinder wall, imagine what it is inside the cylinder with those alum pistons. Yes, not all temp probes are the same distance from the cylinder wall or piston skirt...so each sled will vary.

But no matter what, those are high temps and you should checking piston wash and plug burn to see what's going on...you're either too lean or too fat in midrange if you are seeing those temps.

Remember, aluminum MELTS at 1500°.

On my big bore twin, 1155cc, it was VERY happy with mid RPM range temps between 850 to 1050 when running down the trail at mid throttle. Anything above that was either really lean or really fat.



I would normally agree with other motors however, throw a set of EGT's on a stock Pro and you will find those temps and plugs will be normal.

This sounds like it may be too fat. SLP's maps are very conservative...
 
Tried a few things tonight had my polaris mechanic come to my house hook up his digital wrench program and checked out the tps settings and there on polaris spec.then we sync the power commander with the sleds tps. Got her out of the garage warmed her up and went for a rip up and down my street. Problem still there.so he turned his computer to record and went for another rip same problem. This summer I installed a new stock gauge and didn't take it out of eth mode. So we did that and same issue. So ripping again on record and it seems like I may have a bad tps sensor according to the computer. I will be taking it to his shop on Thursday afternoon for the new tps then take her in the fields behinds there shop. See if that fixes it. We can also record injector pulse and so on that computer is awesome. I will update Thursday night. If its not fixed they will be buying it back from me and I will run a stock motor. Thanks for the replies so far.
 
I have 2011 pro with stage 3 kit, thing is awesome now, but not so much when we installed it. It did the same as yours. The fix that cured the problem(after doing everything listed above and more, new injectors for one!) was adding 3 grams to both holes in the weights. My elevation is 1000ft and we ride to about 4000ft here in NH. This motor modified loves weight! I would not of believed that would have fixed the bog/hesitation I had as bad as it was, but I am proof it did. Sled has been awesome ever since! I do believe the map is a bit fat, but I think it is some what safe. Just trying to help here I am no motor expert just a weekend tinker'er with a bit of history with this kit going back 2 seasons.
Good luck,
Miser
 
I have 2011 pro with stage 3 kit, thing is awesome now, but not so much when we installed it. It did the same as yours. The fix that cured the problem(after doing everything listed above and more, new injectors for one!) was adding 3 grams to both holes in the weights. My elevation is 1000ft and we ride to about 4000ft here in NH. This motor modified loves weight! I would not of believed that would have fixed the bog/hesitation I had as bad as it was, but I am proof it did. Sled has been awesome ever since! I do believe the map is a bit fat, but I think it is some what safe. Just trying to help here I am no motor expert just a weekend tinker'er with a bit of history with this kit going back 2 seasons.
Good luck,
Miser

Hey Miser, if u don't mind saying, what was your final weight overall for riding at 4000'?
 
71 gram mtx weights with 3 gram rivets each hole. Which may be a bit heavy for 4000 ft and over, but that's the highest we can go around here. Most of our backcountry is between 1800ft and 3500ft which this weight works well.
Hope this helps,

Miser
 
miser.. did you sled have that bog at the same rpm 6100-6800 rpm holding it constant in the middle?
because when we hooked up digital wrench I had no det codes no ovr rev codes a few stuck throttle codes and that's all.

I say this because when I hold it wot I get 8100-8200 and it smoth right through that middle bog section I have. and from dead to go she pulls no hesitation I just want to see if your problem was exactly in the same rpm and while holding it in there before I get another set of weights or drill out the rivits on the ones I have now
 
My 11 stock other than a par head was the same way til I added more weight. Stumble in the mid range. Most times didn't trip the det light. But did once in a great while. Added more weight and it was gone. Never to be seen again. Pretty common story on the Pro's.
 
My sled would do it in the same rpm range as yours, but would do it no matter what I was doing. On to the bar it would stumble threw it and then be good on top. On/off the flipper and it would do it right in that range as well. When I talked to Slp they called it a cold pipe scenario and advised me to add the weight I did and I took care of it all around no issues. Maybe it was just my case, but I thought I would share. Dustin at Slp was stellar in his diagnosis and help, like I said cured my issues its been great and I have 5200 miles on the sled over 3000 with the stage 3 kit and rkt pistons! Fingers crossed!!

I hope it helps,

miser
 
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