Some of my buddies run the air horns and say they make a difference in throttle response and they can actually tell there is a little more snap there? Anybody know anything about them?
SLP high air flow air horn? good or bad?
- Thread starter brodCatMan
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mtn_extreme
Well-known member
more info, some workon some sleds not others
I don't know either, but I need to buy one before the start of the season to go with my SLP performance edition kit. I have a BDX intake kit but, I plan to use the SLP intake first because the fuel control program on the power commander III that comes preprogramed for their performance edition package uses their intake.
I will try the BDX intake after I have a good baseline with the SLP intake kit.
I will try the BDX intake after I have a good baseline with the SLP intake kit.
on what sled. and are you talking about the m7 cone style or the m8-m1000 style.
i ran one on mine last year and it defianltey cleaned it up off idle. worth it easily in my opinion. cheap and very easy install
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ACMtnCat
Well-known member
Go with a timber sled intake. Get rid of a little weight and you won't bog as often in deep powder. That shelf and drilling holes is a waste of time, and when you go to sell it people will question all the holes.
The stock intake makes the best power up to 1000cc's. I ran the bigger intake tube on M7 as well as ET900 and tried a variety of intake setups.....always ended up back to stock for best response and power. I believe Dyno-tech came to the same conclusion several years back.
Stoc airbox with mesh hood is a good setup.
Stoc airbox with mesh hood is a good setup.
Yes, the one pictured above is the one I was referring to when I chimed in on the topic.
When I spoke to several of the SLP technical types, they all said that the stock intake design worked the best for them. They really played with the volume and velocity of intake air in their design. For them, their rather small addaptation to the stock intake worked the most consistantly in deep over the hood powder in their trials of their components. They were all clear in stating that is not to say that there couldn't be more power made using another design and that some of the other intake system may be much better suited to lake and trail running than for deep powder use.
I asked specifically about the Speedwerx and BDX intakes. I was told the additional volume provided with the Speedwerx design actually slowed down the velocity of the intake air in their testing and they were seeing hp losses on their dyno at most RPMs.
They too have heard good things about the BDX intake and sell many BDX products but, aren't real big fans of drilling a bunch of holes in the nose of the sled. They told me if I'd like to try my BDX intake kit, do it after I had good baseline egt figures with their performance edition kit and their intake and correct from there. Seems like reasonable advice to me.
I still am interested in the design of the Timbersled intake. The idea of still losing the 8lbs (like the BDX box) without having to make swiss cheese of the front of my sled sounds appealing to me.
When I spoke to several of the SLP technical types, they all said that the stock intake design worked the best for them. They really played with the volume and velocity of intake air in their design. For them, their rather small addaptation to the stock intake worked the most consistantly in deep over the hood powder in their trials of their components. They were all clear in stating that is not to say that there couldn't be more power made using another design and that some of the other intake system may be much better suited to lake and trail running than for deep powder use.
I asked specifically about the Speedwerx and BDX intakes. I was told the additional volume provided with the Speedwerx design actually slowed down the velocity of the intake air in their testing and they were seeing hp losses on their dyno at most RPMs.
They too have heard good things about the BDX intake and sell many BDX products but, aren't real big fans of drilling a bunch of holes in the nose of the sled. They told me if I'd like to try my BDX intake kit, do it after I had good baseline egt figures with their performance edition kit and their intake and correct from there. Seems like reasonable advice to me.
I still am interested in the design of the Timbersled intake. The idea of still losing the 8lbs (like the BDX box) without having to make swiss cheese of the front of my sled sounds appealing to me.
I will be running it on my 07 M8. And i am reffereing just to the little horn that comes from the intake box and goes into the air box. Not the whole intake box. I will try and find a picture.
This is what i am talking about, not the whole intake box. Sorry for the confusion i should have been more clear.
i notice you say this same thing on EVERY intake thread on here. i have a very hard time believing that the stock intake will make more power than an aftermarket intake when on the actual snow (not the dyno room). if the stock intake is plugged where as an aftermarket one (cutlers, bdx, speedworx, etc) is not as clogged, how is the stocker gonna make more power? i would definately like to keep my stock one if it is better and "makes more power" but i want something that will be consistant in the deep snow. my stock intake does NOT make good power when the vents are covered in snow and it can't suck anything in. this is why dyno numbers don't really mean anything to me. i would much rather have an aftermarket intake that may "lose" power but won't clog as appose to the stock intake that runs great off the trailer then works like crap the rest of the day in the powder.
Vernon
p.s. i also don't see how the slp air horn deal will help prevent clogging. does it not use the factory intake vents by the windshield?
Are you talking about this one?
does this not use the vents by the windscreen? it just sucks air from under the hood?
that one uses the stock intake as well as pulls more hot air from under the hood. I was against the drilling holes but after a few deep snow bogs I installed a bdx intake and I'm sure it made more power, felt like i dropped 2,000ft in elevation, but my fuel setup is a lot different then every other. I ran a m7 stile intake cone on a 07 m1000 and it worked well. on a stock sled I would keep it as stock as possible though.
lets not forget....
about all the pre-heating the stock set up does. lets WARM THE AIR UP before it goes into the engine....geesh.... AC really out did themselves on this one. it probably works great on the tug hill plateau and across the lake but on big powder days, it blows. i melted stuff right out of the box on my 2007.
dont go half way. gut the bi$%^ and save 8 lbs and put a timbersled or BDX on the front. then go get some frogskinz and screw the little holes.
sounds great and feels great too. take another 32 pounds off and steer with your feet...
about all the pre-heating the stock set up does. lets WARM THE AIR UP before it goes into the engine....geesh.... AC really out did themselves on this one. it probably works great on the tug hill plateau and across the lake but on big powder days, it blows. i melted stuff right out of the box on my 2007.
dont go half way. gut the bi$%^ and save 8 lbs and put a timbersled or BDX on the front. then go get some frogskinz and screw the little holes.
sounds great and feels great too. take another 32 pounds off and steer with your feet...
Are you talking about this one?
how does the stock intake get integrated into this piece?
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