simple tricks to make sled maintenance easier
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dmkhnr
Well-known member
I like to get a big cardboard box with maybe a hole in the bottom. Then I start tearing it down, head/power valves, cyls, clutch.
Throw everything in the box as you pull it. When your done reassembling it, lake a look in the box. If it's empty you can start it up, if there's some stuff in there still; Well thats a judgment call.
Throw everything in the box as you pull it. When your done reassembling it, lake a look in the box. If it's empty you can start it up, if there's some stuff in there still; Well thats a judgment call.
Digital photo, lots of photos,small video clips and wear latex gloves from HF.
guess you'll change your mind if you ever have to open up the motor on your new sled
I always clean everyting up...more fun to wrench in a clean area and on clean parts...
Great thread
1) Magnetic trays for the bolts/nuts during disassembly. Put all bolts and nuts back into place if possible, if not, wrap them in tape and tape them to the part or put them in a bag and attach it to the part (zip ties work great for this - you can zip tie/tape the bolt beside where it goes or put them in a bag, zip tie the throat of the bag and then attach the zip tie to another zip tie around the part - I use zip ties because sometimes tape leaves that sticky residue or it might be in a place where you don't want to use tape). For example, zip tie all the head bolts in a baggy and then zip tie that bag around one of the spark plugs that is screwed into the head or through one of the head bolt holes. For an even better idea, see #2 below.
2) Scriber or engraving tool - makes permanent marks on the outside of things like heads, cylinders, y-pipes, can mark the PTO and MAG TDC's on the Magneto cover plate and on the case for reference etc., so that you can reference these when re-assembling. i.e. mark on the cylinder - "PTO" on PTO side cylinder and PTO side carb etc. Makes it simple for re-assembly. You can use a felt marker, but if you put your stuff in a parts washer or similar, say goodbye to your reference marks. A center punch works good for reference points but an engraver is nice becuz you can write things like squish clearance/base gasket thickness/etc., on the cylinder itself so you remember and its right there. You can also engrave numbers on your bolts and then a number on the case/head/whatever where it came out of so they all go back in the same spot. Also you can mark things like "this side out" or similar so that you know which side of a domahickey faces out or in or towards the front or back of the motor or wherever.
3) For the coolant thing, just take the muffler off, get a fuel siphon hose, plug one end in the coolant tank, drain thru the muffler hole in the bellypan into a pail/whatever on the ground. The siphon effect will work so long as the container is lower than the siphon point. Once the coolant tank is empty take the hoses off, push the siphon hose in the coolant line, siphon more coolant, etc., keep working down the motor taking lines off and siphoning until you get to the lowest point. I usually only lose about a 1/2 cup of coolant this way when I take the final water pump hose off, couple rags underneath and its soaked up, no spill, no mess, don't have to clean out my shop vac.
4) as stated, take lots of pics, keep a log book and write everything down or draw diagrams, especially in areas where you can't take pics and just in case your camera falls in a puddle before you get them downloaded or the wife deletes them by accident, etc. Its good to take notes as you break down the motor/whatever down. Especially things like timing BTDC, clearances, run outs, etc. Its good to know that you had three spacers on your secondary clutch, but its even better to know that two of them were on the outside and one was on the inside, or two on the inside, one on the outside, etc. A quick note or diagram will save you some head scratching during re-assembly.
1) Magnetic trays for the bolts/nuts during disassembly. Put all bolts and nuts back into place if possible, if not, wrap them in tape and tape them to the part or put them in a bag and attach it to the part (zip ties work great for this - you can zip tie/tape the bolt beside where it goes or put them in a bag, zip tie the throat of the bag and then attach the zip tie to another zip tie around the part - I use zip ties because sometimes tape leaves that sticky residue or it might be in a place where you don't want to use tape). For example, zip tie all the head bolts in a baggy and then zip tie that bag around one of the spark plugs that is screwed into the head or through one of the head bolt holes. For an even better idea, see #2 below.
2) Scriber or engraving tool - makes permanent marks on the outside of things like heads, cylinders, y-pipes, can mark the PTO and MAG TDC's on the Magneto cover plate and on the case for reference etc., so that you can reference these when re-assembling. i.e. mark on the cylinder - "PTO" on PTO side cylinder and PTO side carb etc. Makes it simple for re-assembly. You can use a felt marker, but if you put your stuff in a parts washer or similar, say goodbye to your reference marks. A center punch works good for reference points but an engraver is nice becuz you can write things like squish clearance/base gasket thickness/etc., on the cylinder itself so you remember and its right there. You can also engrave numbers on your bolts and then a number on the case/head/whatever where it came out of so they all go back in the same spot. Also you can mark things like "this side out" or similar so that you know which side of a domahickey faces out or in or towards the front or back of the motor or wherever.
3) For the coolant thing, just take the muffler off, get a fuel siphon hose, plug one end in the coolant tank, drain thru the muffler hole in the bellypan into a pail/whatever on the ground. The siphon effect will work so long as the container is lower than the siphon point. Once the coolant tank is empty take the hoses off, push the siphon hose in the coolant line, siphon more coolant, etc., keep working down the motor taking lines off and siphoning until you get to the lowest point. I usually only lose about a 1/2 cup of coolant this way when I take the final water pump hose off, couple rags underneath and its soaked up, no spill, no mess, don't have to clean out my shop vac.
4) as stated, take lots of pics, keep a log book and write everything down or draw diagrams, especially in areas where you can't take pics and just in case your camera falls in a puddle before you get them downloaded or the wife deletes them by accident, etc. Its good to take notes as you break down the motor/whatever down. Especially things like timing BTDC, clearances, run outs, etc. Its good to know that you had three spacers on your secondary clutch, but its even better to know that two of them were on the outside and one was on the inside, or two on the inside, one on the outside, etc. A quick note or diagram will save you some head scratching during re-assembly.
every time you have the oil injection pump, lines, fittings.....any part of the system apart. PER MIX THE FIRST TANK.
Here's my favorite and has saved a lot of time and frustration.
When trying to get a primary clutch off, tip sled on it's side, put an ounce or two of water down into the clutch after the bolt is out. teflon the clutch puller bolt up good, and screw in, the primary will pop up with ease every time.
When trying to get a primary clutch off, tip sled on it's side, put an ounce or two of water down into the clutch after the bolt is out. teflon the clutch puller bolt up good, and screw in, the primary will pop up with ease every time.
Grease works very well also. This is an espescialy helpful trick if you have a clutch that is stubborn coming off.
When putting heads back on, use a little grease on the o-rings to hold them in place.
NEVER, EVER, EVER use a liquid type lubricant on your clutches! All it does is collect belt dust, dirt, and all other kinds of gritty crud and bind things up. Clutches usually don't require any kind of lubricant, but if you MUST lubricate them, use only dry teflon or graphite.
Remeber to put Stabil in your gas and run the sled long enough to get it completely through the fuel system before putting your sled away for the season.
But water is really nice as there is no big grease mess. And yes, it works incredible, tried getting a clutch off for 2 days when I found this little trick, clutch popped right off with only about 50 foot pounds of torgue!
When re-gearing your sled, lay it on it's side before you take the cover off. You can re-gear a sled with no mess and no fliud loss......
-I found at Lowe's a $12 4' level to help with aligning the skis. Just lay it against the track(after the track has been adjusted) and take measurements from the carbide. Makes life easy and you can do one side at a time.
-Clean your belts to get rid of the mold release agent. Your belts will last longer. I use Dawn/water mix.
-Clean your belts to get rid of the mold release agent. Your belts will last longer. I use Dawn/water mix.
If you need to syphon the gas out of your tank... insert the siphon hose into the tank, wrap the hose with a rag to make a seal around the tank opening, and apply some compressed air to the tank using an air nozzle. You do not have to have a perfect seal with the rag. You need to seal the tank inlet enough so that some pressure builds in the tank. The fuel goes up and out, no muss, no fuss, and no bad taste in your mouth! Reduce the compressor pressure to 10 psi to avoid over-pressurizing the tank.
Also, a scotch-brite pad(green) works well to clean the aluminum rails and tunnel. Rub light with wd-40 in the way of the natural grain of the alum. It will clean up the marks, makes it look. Don't rub too hard as it can damage as well.
Outboard motor gas line works as well. Insert and pump the bulb.
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