What would happen if I shortened it by an inch? would I lower the seat and angle of attack?
Shorten the Strut Rod
- Thread starter crowncokeandsoda
- Start date
An inch is way to much. The easy way is to use a tie rod end on one side to make it adjustable if you have the fixed length. Start at 1/4 inch increments.
If you lower the ride hight you will have to bring in the limiter strap to maintain a reasonable geometry of the skid. It is well worth doing -- have done mine 2 Years ago and some others did the same the ride is way better that is why TS has changed the set up for 2015=== it flat out works.
If you lower the ride hight you will have to bring in the limiter strap to maintain a reasonable geometry of the skid. It is well worth doing -- have done mine 2 Years ago and some others did the same the ride is way better that is why TS has changed the set up for 2015=== it flat out works.
Did they change the fit kit rods or just the kit
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I cut my strut in half, shortened it tap it and have it adjustable. I lowered it mm by mm and On my wr I lowered about 1/2, drop front forks 1/4 inch and it rocked, better attach angle and lower center of gravity. now have same 2014 kit on my new yz 450 and will keep playing with shorter strut. I am am aware yz strut is shorter than wr but will use yz fit kit cut in half, threaded and keep playing with shorter strut
A
Adobe-Al
Well-known member
I purchased an adjustable rod(KTM) and put it on my CRF. I then played with several height settings. I found that between a 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch lower was the best. The lower setting made the bike more stable and produced more ski lift.
I'm curious to see how my 15 St kit is stock and if I need to play with the rod on it.
I'm curious to see how my 15 St kit is stock and if I need to play with the rod on it.
Shortened mine .625 and moved skid up in frame 1 inch now don't need a step ladder to get on it
Very interesting! I have been told by TS that if you shorten the rod it will negatively effect geometry, however I like what I am hearing in this thread. Totally makes sense that it would make the front end feel lighter and un-load the forks a little. Will definitely play with length since I already have the adjustable rod.
I talked to one of the TS guys at the show yesterday and he said they were going to come out with a lowering kit for the older models. I think he said next year sometime.
Well, I hope they make enough if they work good. Not like the double bearing kit...Thanks for the replies!
The rod on my KTM 530XC-W appears to be adjustable but, it also appears to be as short as it can go because all the threads are threaded back into the rod.
It would sure be nice to be able to cut off a bit on one end and tap some new threads and play with the length. I would think a minimum and maximum length would be nice to know because then you could adjust within that range and not totally screw up your handling.
It would sure be nice to be able to cut off a bit on one end and tap some new threads and play with the length. I would think a minimum and maximum length would be nice to know because then you could adjust within that range and not totally screw up your handling.
Cut 1/2 inch off each end gives you a inch to play with doesn't weaken anything its 5/8 nf thread
rod
been running an adjustable rod the last three years
shorten rod, more pressure on front of track, good trail manners if you don't go extreme, doesn't like to go through the snow, azz stuck up in the air
long rod, jumps up on snow, tankslapping twitchy hard steering, high seat height
in the end 1/8" makes a difference. 1/2" huge, build a strut and tune, you'll see, keep eye on bike to kit chain tension,
been running an adjustable rod the last three years
shorten rod, more pressure on front of track, good trail manners if you don't go extreme, doesn't like to go through the snow, azz stuck up in the air
long rod, jumps up on snow, tankslapping twitchy hard steering, high seat height
in the end 1/8" makes a difference. 1/2" huge, build a strut and tune, you'll see, keep eye on bike to kit chain tension,
hows about some pics of your adjustable struts and maybe where you got it or how you built it
thanks
let it snow
thanks
let it snow
1 inch aluminum round 9/16 drill bit 5/8 nf tap 2 5/8 home joints remember shorter the rod the more slack in the chain move the front skid up shorten the rod to were rails are parallel to floor
Would shortening the rod say 1/2" move the drive gears close enough together to eliminate the half link chain on the odd ball gear combinations? How much does the chain actually shorten when shortening the rod? I just built a new rod for my CR500 project. I drilled and tapped the female end really deep so I have lots to play with, just thinking shorten the rod and adjust the ski pressure by moving the forks in the triples.
M5
M5
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Put a floor jack under skid plate take out rod you can raise and lower to see difference
I measured the rod on my 2010 KTM XC-W 530 kit and the tube itself is 11 7/16" long. Both lock nuts are tightened against the rod ends and the rod ends are tightened all the way into the shaft so the overall length between the rod ends (center to center) is 14".
Is this optimal for this bike or should I shorten the rod a bit? If so, how much?
Is this optimal for this bike or should I shorten the rod a bit? If so, how much?
If some guys are only after a lower seat height and own a newer ktm or YZ another option is too cut 4mm off the end of subframe on the KTMs an weld back up I did this on my 350 and it lowered seat height about a 1/2'" and looks factory, easy cheap if you have a tig.. For the new yzf JGR racing sells a subframe tie rod not cheap though http://jgrmxstore.myshopify.com/collections/frontpage/products/adjustable-sub-frame-mod