(SHORT VERSION) PRO RMK: DOO REMOTE BYPASS THERMOSTAT. PARTS LISTS AND INSTALLATION
- Thread starter TRS
- Start date
I copied the "crux" of the "$28" thread to a shorter one so that basic members can read it.
If you want to read the entire thread... click on Dartos link immediately above.
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If you want to read the entire thread... click on Dartos link immediately above.
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Updated Parts List
Thought I would repost the part numbers with the optional substitutions / updates.
BRP
1- #509000499 Thermo housing with internal thermostat
1- #509000372 3/4" x 1" barbed tee
Napa
4- #42934 Power Grip
2- #42925 Power Grip
1- #660-1696 5/8" bypass cap
1- #8205 1" formed hose
1- #7378 3/4" formed hose
Polaris
1- #7080533 CT clamp (Or 1- #42922 NAPA Power Grip)
Other Parts to machine or source
Washer for thermostat replacement 34mm OD, 27mm ID, 1mm thick
1/2" PEX test plugs have been found to fit well in the extra unused 5/8" bypass port in the BRP thermostat housing, for a double positive block. The following part numbers have been identified as options:
***Note only one plug is needed per kit***
Viega part number 43723 (Acetal material and negligible weight, 2 Grams, this plug seems to be the most commonly available in my expirence)
Zurn part number QXP3XP (Acetal material)
Zurn Part number QQP3GXPK1 (This one is brass, 10 Grams)
Zurn part number QQP3GX (This one is brass also)
Thought I would repost the part numbers with the optional substitutions / updates.
BRP
1- #509000499 Thermo housing with internal thermostat
1- #509000372 3/4" x 1" barbed tee
Napa
4- #42934 Power Grip
2- #42925 Power Grip
1- #660-1696 5/8" bypass cap
1- #8205 1" formed hose
1- #7378 3/4" formed hose
Polaris
1- #7080533 CT clamp (Or 1- #42922 NAPA Power Grip)
Other Parts to machine or source
Washer for thermostat replacement 34mm OD, 27mm ID, 1mm thick
1/2" PEX test plugs have been found to fit well in the extra unused 5/8" bypass port in the BRP thermostat housing, for a double positive block. The following part numbers have been identified as options:
***Note only one plug is needed per kit***
Viega part number 43723 (Acetal material and negligible weight, 2 Grams, this plug seems to be the most commonly available in my expirence)
Zurn part number QXP3XP (Acetal material)
Zurn Part number QQP3GXPK1 (This one is brass, 10 Grams)
Zurn part number QQP3GX (This one is brass also)
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Just priced all this, and my costs are much higher. $93.81 before tax/shipping, $111.54 after tax/shipping.
I got my BRP part pricing from Parts Pit Stop, and my NAPA pricing from their website.
Rogers 'kit' isn't as far off as I thought at $120 before shipping, $130 shipped. I called them up expecting a $28 kit to cost ~$50ish. As I didn't actually price out everything before calling and just went by the assumption that the $28 upgrade was a total of $28 for parts.
So, those looking at this as a $28 upgrade, know that its ~$28 for the Doo thermostat only, which I think is where it got its name, by what TRS explained a few posts back.
cost.........cost+sh/tax......item.........................................seller
$27.49........$34.49............thermo housing [509000499].............parts pit stop
$7.99..........$14.99............T fitting [509000372]......................parts pit stop
$20.52........$22.11............1.5" power grip clamp [42934]...........napa
$6.30..........$6.79.............1.0625" power grip clamp [42925]......napa
$3.15..........$3.39.............0.9375" power grip clamp [42922]......napa
$12.33........$13.28............1" heater hose [NBH 8205]...............napa
$6.03.........$6.50..............3/4" heater hose [NBH 7378]............napa
$10.00........$10.00............thermo delete washer & bypass plug..LoudHandle on SW
$93.81.......$111.54
Note: this is simply a collection of information that I hope helps others understand the costs involved.
I got my BRP part pricing from Parts Pit Stop, and my NAPA pricing from their website.
Rogers 'kit' isn't as far off as I thought at $120 before shipping, $130 shipped. I called them up expecting a $28 kit to cost ~$50ish. As I didn't actually price out everything before calling and just went by the assumption that the $28 upgrade was a total of $28 for parts.
So, those looking at this as a $28 upgrade, know that its ~$28 for the Doo thermostat only, which I think is where it got its name, by what TRS explained a few posts back.
cost.........cost+sh/tax......item.........................................seller
$27.49........$34.49............thermo housing [509000499].............parts pit stop
$7.99..........$14.99............T fitting [509000372]......................parts pit stop
$20.52........$22.11............1.5" power grip clamp [42934]...........napa
$6.30..........$6.79.............1.0625" power grip clamp [42925]......napa
$3.15..........$3.39.............0.9375" power grip clamp [42922]......napa
$12.33........$13.28............1" heater hose [NBH 8205]...............napa
$6.03.........$6.50..............3/4" heater hose [NBH 7378]............napa
$10.00........$10.00............thermo delete washer & bypass plug..LoudHandle on SW
$93.81.......$111.54
Note: this is simply a collection of information that I hope helps others understand the costs involved.
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W
whittaker727
Well-known member
Thanks guys. I just ordered the parts to do this to my Carls 900. I hope to have it installed to ride before next weekend. Huge thanks for the R&D!
Have done a coupe installs here, and ended up with mixed results.
My sled, stock 13 pro, gets foam in the expansion tank after running. It´s like there´s air in the system, but I have vented the system as good as never before. Still foam in the tank. I have not had much runtime on it, but it does not seems right.
Could mixing coolant types make this foam? From factory there´s a green coolant on it, but I used a blue type from Shell. Can it be this simple?
Second sled, is the same, but with SLP stge 4 kit. He sees consistent temps on trail, but when pinned for long time, coolant temps drop down to 104-105 F, and he loose power. He can see the exhaust turn to black smoke when this happend, and loss of power is noticable.
Any idees?
My sled, stock 13 pro, gets foam in the expansion tank after running. It´s like there´s air in the system, but I have vented the system as good as never before. Still foam in the tank. I have not had much runtime on it, but it does not seems right.
Could mixing coolant types make this foam? From factory there´s a green coolant on it, but I used a blue type from Shell. Can it be this simple?
Second sled, is the same, but with SLP stge 4 kit. He sees consistent temps on trail, but when pinned for long time, coolant temps drop down to 104-105 F, and he loose power. He can see the exhaust turn to black smoke when this happend, and loss of power is noticable.
Any idees?
Could be... What, specifically, is the product name/number of the Shell brand coolant you are using??
G
geo
Well-known member
Maybe a new thread should be started so the short version stays short but Daltech started it lol with his weird foaming and a sled that all of the sudden drops temps at WFO.
I don't believe those things have anything to do with the conversion. It works well in many sleds. More than likely it's a "mixture" of things.
RMS. In the long version last season many opinions of what happens at that temp range was given but nothing was judged as factual lol.
MO is timing begins to retard at 129 or a bit before. With the stock set-up temps would continue to climb and about 140 the fuel would begin to increase as well which further increased temps.
I felt a noticeable powerloss. The conversion kept temps in the range you mentioned and it was better. It wasn't until I lowered a few fuel points on the top that I got my temps to stay below the 124ish range on wide open stuff.
But,,, I like to run 8150 max for my terrain (happy at 8000 too). most pulls are 1min or less (still a lot of 1 one-thousands if you really count lol) and I like the timing staying "on the edge". Higher rpm seemed to retard my timing to less than ideal for my pump fuel (true 91 non-eth).
Those are observations from my reality.
On your white plugs RMS. Are you reading your fire ring or the porcelain in general. Fire ring is the only thing to read if you are playing with the topend #'s unless you want to bring your borescope.
My learnings with the CFI last season led me to believe that the perfect plug in a CFI starts with a clean tan tip pretty white middle band of about 3/16ths " and down to a tan fire ring with a bit of burnt black on the exh. side and the colors progressing.
I have high middle #'s (20's) anyway and if I added more there it just increased coolant temps, started to erode the color from the plugs towards the ends and my wash began to cover the piston from back to front.
Does this tells you something?
Saftey datahseet: http://www3.ikaros.net/datablad/Säk...nderhållskemikalier/KY171 Carcoolant 774C.pdf
Product datasheet: http://univarlubricants.se/wp-content/uploads/Carcoolant-774C-TDS-SE.pdf
Short version of product datasheet:
Contains 1,2– etendiol > 90%
Color blue
Does not contain nitrit,amin and fosfat
Mixable with common glycol based coolants.
For refrence, Polaris coolant saftey datasheet: http://polarislubricants.com/msds/Polaris Premium Antifreeze _0139_(3).pdf
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Actually, I belive this has alot to do with the conversion kit. Because the doo thermostat, opens at a lower temperature, and lets more coolant through than the stock thermostat. And since the pump is driven by the crank, it goes faster and lets more coolant through the system at WOT.
I have seen the exact same result after removing my stock thermostat, and replacing it with a spacer with a hole, that lets through more water than the stock thermostat. When I was on WOT in good cooling snow, the flow of water was to great through the engine, resulting in bad performance because the engine temperature went to low.
I noticed a worse performance when the temperature went below 45 celsius.
W
Wild_Canuck
Member
I am seeing the same "foaming" as Daltech. I have nothing but Polaris Coolant in the system. I see foaming and also seems like there is a constant air flow in the tank. But my temp. is solid at 107-109, and the sled is running awesome. so i don't know how to take it, if its a problem or a good thing. Any incite on this would be cool that's for sure.
I also have very little foaming in the reservoir tank. I thought from mixing coolants. Temps are amazing on the trail ride in at 117 degrees. Deep snow is 108. Very low snow temps were 132. This was at spring like conditions hot sun 2 - 5 degrees C outside.
I did notice very consistent power on long pulls uphill. 20 second or longer at WOT. Very happy with this mod so far.
I also made a paper gasket with a little copper rtv. No leaking and very easy. A sheet of thermostat gasket maker at Napa was 9 dollars.
I did notice very consistent power on long pulls uphill. 20 second or longer at WOT. Very happy with this mod so far.
I also made a paper gasket with a little copper rtv. No leaking and very easy. A sheet of thermostat gasket maker at Napa was 9 dollars.
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G
geo
Well-known member
Interesting, maybe an elevation thing.
I ported my in and out spigots and opened up the flow from the crankcase to the cylinders. The coolant rushes through the bottle but no foam???
Cavitation can create bubbles in a closed system.
I've never seen my temps drop at WOT. I'll try some lake racing at 5300' next time out and see. It's almost a km and a half. Is that long enough?
Are we talking Pro's here or are there a couple of RMK's in here too.
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Lol, some of us could count as sled geeks looking from outside. Next hot thing will be porting of cooling system. Geo, you are so passioned, makes me feel like a guy that never should do my own wrenching. Just gotta love it
All sleds I am speeking of are pros. Sunvangs is an Assult.
Did the 3rd pro now, and it has the same foam and air bubbling in the reservoair. But sled works as good as always, just with lower temps.
My thought was also cavitiation, but I can not see why and how it should happend.
All sleds I am speeking of are pros. Sunvangs is an Assult.
Did the 3rd pro now, and it has the same foam and air bubbling in the reservoair. But sled works as good as always, just with lower temps.
My thought was also cavitiation, but I can not see why and how it should happend.
G
geo
Well-known member
Why go half way when you can go all the way lol. It`s the way I think when I think too much lol. OCD??
I enjoy thinking a project through before starting it. Usually takes longer than the project lol. Bottle necks are bottle necks and 45's flow better than 90's.
I added HP this season by increasing what the air pump flows. HP creates heat. Didn't want the ability to remove the heat to limit what I could pull out for HP.
So I took the extra couple of step's.
I enjoy thinking a project through before starting it. Usually takes longer than the project lol. Bottle necks are bottle necks and 45's flow better than 90's.
I added HP this season by increasing what the air pump flows. HP creates heat. Didn't want the ability to remove the heat to limit what I could pull out for HP.
So I took the extra couple of step's.
