I went to stiffen the springs on the front shocks, and on one shock at about 8 threads away from all the way tight it got really tight. It's stuck there. I try loosening it and it starts to un-thread the shock from the top cap. No matter how hard I try to hold it. WTF. any suggestions on how to get this thing to move. The other one is at 6 threads from all the way tight and it moves easy enough just by hand either way without the tool.
Shock being a POS
- Thread starter Destroyer
- Start date
Ok same problem with one of our sleds rear track shock couldn't tighten up anymore.. So wtf. I sent my suspension to my motorcross suspension guy and said re valve these things an make em awesome. Well along inspection the rear track shock threads were screwed they are so thin and soft they just turned tUrned to mush.. So a new shock body from Polaris and shocks got re built.. Best 400.00 I have ever spent they actually soak up the bumps and is way eaiser to handle. Everyone needs to do this the stock valving is very soft.
check your manual
If you guys have them that tight your way outta specs, and from experience on the pro if you get out of the spec range things really go to crap on handling, they were never meant to be that tight, I am running mine totally almost opposite (probably 6-8 turns from loose) of you and it handles like a dream. I too turned mine up that tight thinking it would help and locked it up, my dealer replaced and revalved for free and set in specs and it is now perfect. Check the measuremens in the manual and stay within them or change to different shocks is the only advice I can give, hope you get them figured out...good luck to ya.
If you guys have them that tight your way outta specs, and from experience on the pro if you get out of the spec range things really go to crap on handling, they were never meant to be that tight, I am running mine totally almost opposite (probably 6-8 turns from loose) of you and it handles like a dream. I too turned mine up that tight thinking it would help and locked it up, my dealer replaced and revalved for free and set in specs and it is now perfect. Check the measuremens in the manual and stay within them or change to different shocks is the only advice I can give, hope you get them figured out...good luck to ya.
When it comes to suspension I know what to do.. I checked all the specs and guess what still not right. So all this being said sent them in to my suspension guy dialed in Motorsports. And he told me the way the valving is set in those shocks is very soft so bottoming out is going to happen..... I am glad that the factory specs worked for u but I hammer the hell out of the trails and am very hard on the rear suspension. Being 215 pounds with no gear. So I am still using the stock springs but all new valve stack.. And now it's like a Moto bike
They aren't maxed out according to manual spec. I'm 165lbs and I bottom the front shocks out. The rear seems sweet. The threads locked up tight. It wont budge.
Remove shock and see if the threads are narled up shock body is so soft and crap in the threads causes them to start cross threading
Ya! That's crap. Did this to me a few days ago , the adjusting nut is locked tight, same as you it loosen shock body. I think there is gravel or better yet corrosion between aluminum shock body and aluminum nut, these two together don't mix. I ordered a new nut and will cut the old one off, then hopefully the treads aren't to screwed up. If they are I will file them nicely. When I reassemble it I will use coppercoat on the threads,I will do this for the other side also. Good
I swapped all of my stock W/E's out for FOX E-vol's valved by Holz. Nuf said...... (imo)
~Rookie
~Rookie
ya I would love some better shocks
save your self a bunch of money and have a suspension guy re valve the shocks u have. because once they are set for your weight power and style of riding u will not need to touch em..400.00 vs 1500.00+ for fox all the way around and then they are still generic valving..
