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Set up tips and tricks for pro rmk?

R

rmscustom

Well-known member
Been on a M since 06 and I'm gonna be new to the pro rmk next year (snowchecked a 2013). I rented a 2012 last time out and was impressed even though I had a few issues. Problem #1, it seemed harder to do a down hill u-turn than my M, this could be because the ski stance was set a 40" or because I wasn't used to it yet but I was wondering if anybody has suggestions on how to set up the stock suspension. Problem #2, I broke the bolt that mounts the top of the rear shock on a pretty whooped out trail. The guy I rented it from said he has about one a week do that because its only a 5/16 bolt. Anybody else have that problem, or is anybody drilling them out to a bigger bolt to solve the problem? Any other tips or tricks would be appreciated. Thanks. btw I'm about 230 geared up
 
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I think after a couple rides you'll be pulling down hill u-turns in your sleep. This might sound weird but rather than go wrong foot forward I've been hooking my outside foot into the footwell and pulling up with that outside foot. (Unless I need to do a real tight turn) It has seriously worked great... even on some extremely steep slopes that I would usually always go wrong foot forward.

Never heard of that bolt issue. I'm only like 185 - 190ish geared up though. I would personally be worried about cracking the shock eyelet if you drilled it out bigger though. (Although I haven't looked to see how much material there is... maybe it would be fine to drill?)
 
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I like the skis in the inboard position, front shocks as loose as you can go without the keepers falling out & with the sway bar in . RTS at 10" & FTS with about an inch of threads showing. SLP blue/pink primary clutch spring and the exhaust valve solenid hoses disconnected, plug the EV ports with holley plugs, & I run the pink springs (lighter) in the EV. Really wakes the Pro up in the midrange!

I tried running without the sway bar but it was just too floppy. Maybe with a stiffer spring up front it would work? I am 200 lbs and probably 225 geared up.
 
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One thing I had to change on my Pro was the width of the handlebars. They are so wide that when trying to yank the sled back uphill the center of gravity of your body ends up on the wrong side of the sled. Narrowing up the bars a few inches makes a world of difference.
 
I have 2 Pro,s. After I tightened up the front track shock to lighten up the front end they turned and sidehilled much easier.
 
TTT

Just bought a 14 pro, coming off a 10 m8. Took the sway bar out and thats about all. Any tips for a new Pro owner??

Love this sled so far!
 
After a season and a half on it.

Rts a little tighter than recommended for your weight. good chart in the owners manual.
Fts spring length at 8.5"
If your over 200lbs revalve of track shocks are a must and a huge improvement over stock.
Skis narrow position.
Ski shock springs about 1/2" tighter than loose.
Sway bar IN. Stock shocks are sprung and valved for a sway bar and without it you use up most of the travel of the shock when your on edge causing it to bottom out and bucking you off or down the hill if you hit a bump.
Handle bars +.5 with 5/8" trimmed off each end.

That's what works well for me.
 
sway bar left in, dan adams bars are the best thing ive done so far. just put some AI 36" a arms on today so we will see how they work. sled is awesome
 
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