secondary not squeezing belt

[CanDoo]

Once I set my deflection and tighten up the internal nut the belt can be moved by hand, I can just spin it between the clutches with little effort with my hand. Not sure why it's not grabbing?
Now last week I had completely removed the secondary adjustment black hub...and put it back in ...not sure if that would affect the tension...

Any help here ?

T

 

[medicman]

Mine does the same thing.. Gonna tear it apart soon and see just what i might be able to do. I have heard from a dealer that they have been having some issues with the spring in the secondary not squeezing the belt tight enough and the lack of adjustment when the belt wears..

 

[CanDoo]

Mine does the same thing.. Gonna tear it apart soon and see just what i might be able to do. I have heard from a dealer that they have been having some issues with the spring in the secondary not squeezing the belt tight enough and the lack of adjustment when the belt wears..

Thanks for the info...

This is happening on new and broken in belts...

so is it a challenge to tear apart the secondary...special tools?

T

 

[summitboy]

Machine the secondary. It is the way BRP meant it to be. Search for QRS machining in this section, i have some pics up. Or you could just keep buying a 160 dollar belt until Doo releases a new wider belt.

 

[Idaho Slim]

Once I set my deflection and tighten up the internal nut the belt can be moved by hand, I can just spin it between the clutches with little effort with my hand. Not sure why it's not grabbing?
Now last week I had completely removed the secondary adjustment black hub...and put it back in ...not sure if that would affect the tension...

Any help here ?

T

No matter how much you tighten the black hub, If you dont cut the four slots completely, you will not be able to tighten the secondary. BTW, if you tighten the nipple nut to hard, you are going to strip the interior of the plastic hub.

Take out the hub, take out the nipple, take off the "O"ring, take a hack saw and cut the 4 slots, replace the "O"ring, the nipple and reinstall and set deflection, DON'T over tighten but make real snug. No more changing deflection.

 

[snowdrew00]

pics perhaps

Slim what are the chance you snaped a couple of pics?

 

[Idaho Slim]

Doh!!!

Slim what are the chance you snaped a couple of pics?

Sorry! I didnt think of it, wished that I had, but it is VERY easy to do. I'll try and narrate it thru 1 more time tho......

1. In the center of your secondary is the belt deflection adjuster, (A black plastic Hub/Cog).

2. Inside the center of the Hub is an threaded aluminum adjuster nipple, take the small gold tube wrench from your Tool Kit and insert it into the center of the hub and loosen the nipple 4 complete turns.

3. Then take the gold hub wrench from your tool kit that has the (2) 1/2 inch stubs on it and take out the black plastic Hub completely out of the secondary.

4. Now completely take out the aluminum nipple and set it aside.

5. On the interior end of the Hub you will see that the end has (4) slots and that there is an "O" ring around the slots. It is these slots that you can see are not completely cut thru and will not allow the (4) "fingers" to expand when you tighten you secondary Hub after you set your deflection.

6. Take a small screwdriver and gently pry off the "O" ring and set it aside.

7. Take a hack saw an gentley cut thru the slots.

8. Blow off any debris.

9. Re-install the "O"ring.

10.Re-install the nipple inside the Hub, (This is the hardest Part - Make sure you "center" the nipple and gentley tighten the nipple into the Hub being sure not to Cross-thread the nipple) Once you get the nipple to thread into the Hub, dont fully turn it in, (That's for later)

11. Insert the Hub back into the secondary and tighten until it contacts the secondary sheave.

12. RE-SET your deflection.

13. Tighten the nipple FIRM until you think are almost tightening TOO tight, Then stop.

14. DONE, ride it around and re-check your deflection----------- No more changing deflection.

 

[CanDoo]

Sorry! I didnt think of it, wished that I had, but it is VERY easy to do. I'll try and narrate it thru 1 more time tho......

1. In the center of your secondary is the belt deflection adjuster, (A black plastic Hub/Cog).

2. Inside the center of the Hub is an threaded aluminum adjuster nipple, take the small gold tube wrench from your Tool Kit and insert it into the center of the hub and loosen the nipple 4 complete turns.

3. Then take the gold hub wrench from your tool kit that has the (2) 1/2 inch stubs on it and take out the black plastic Hub completely out of the secondary.

4. Now completely take out the aluminum nipple and set it aside.

5. On the interior end of the Hub you will see that the end has (4) slots and that there is an "O" ring around the slots. It is these slots that you can see are not completely cut thru and will not allow the (4) "fingers" to expand when you tighten you secondary Hub after you set your deflection.

6. Take a small screwdriver and gently pry off the "O" ring and set it aside.

7. Take a hack saw an gentley cut thru the slots.

8. Blow off any debris.

9. Re-install the "O"ring.

10.Re-install the nipple inside the Hub, (This is the hardest Part - Make sure you "center" the nipple and gentley tighten the nipple into the Hub being sure not to Cross-thread the nipple) Once you get the nipple to thread into the Hub, dont fully turn it in, (That's for later)

11. Insert the Hub back into the secondary and tighten until it contacts the secondary sheave.

12. RE-SET your deflection.

13. Tighten the nipple FIRM until you think are almost tightening TOO tight, Then stop.

14. DONE, ride it around and re-check your deflection----------- No more changing deflection.

Thanks Idaho Slim, I will try this today.... now last time I took the whole black tensioner out of the clutch I had a ***** of a time to get it back in as the threads on the hub are bigger than the metal on the clutch...any hints on getting it back on?

T

 

[snowdrew00]

Thanks Slim I know you have posted this like 10 times. I will give her a shot this evening.

 

[Idaho Slim]

Yes, A majoe PITA

But, If you are at home and have access to bolts find one that threads into the nipple and gently try that as a starter when you put the nipple back in, again carefull not to strip threads.

 

[Top]

Is this just dealing with the XP?

 

[Idaho Slim]

Yep

Is this just dealing with the XP?

Not yer 07 topper.

 

[CanDoo]

so just to clarify..this will tighten the secondary so it will grip the belt...I don't have a problem setting the belt height it just wont grip the belt and the belt can be spun by hand.

T

 

[summitboy]

If the belt is slipping it is because you don't have enough adjustment. If the belt is broken in you could more or less take the black adjuster out and toss it in the garbage because the belt will be loose at full closure of the secondary. Machining the secondary allows the secondary to close more and give you the adjustment you need to keep the belt tight. If the belt is loose because it is broken in cutting the adjuster won't do anything for you. Once you get a wider belt or machine the secondary cutting the adjuster will help you keep the secondary in adjustment. I found with the adjuster just barely gripping the secondary it would spin out because of the poor belt deflection. Machining or running a wider/shorter belt is the only thing you can do to get proper deflection on the 166 belt. BRP screwed the machining up. It doesn't close like it should. Take it apart and you will see what they were trying to do but they missed the mark and the inside collar is to long hitting before the 3 little feet do.

 

[Tumalo]

Thanks for all the insight for these clutch issues.

 

[tech a]

Sorry! I didnt think of it, wished that I had, but it is VERY easy to do. I'll try and narrate it thru 1 more time tho......

1. In the center of your secondary is the belt deflection adjuster, (A black plastic Hub/Cog).

2. Inside the center of the Hub is an threaded aluminum adjuster nipple, take the small gold tube wrench from your Tool Kit and insert it into the center of the hub and loosen the nipple 4 complete turns.

3. Then take the gold hub wrench from your tool kit that has the (2) 1/2 inch stubs on it and take out the black plastic Hub completely out of the secondary.

4. Now completely take out the aluminum nipple and set it aside.

5. On the interior end of the Hub you will see that the end has (4) slots and that there is an "O" ring around the slots. It is these slots that you can see are not completely cut thru and will not allow the (4) "fingers" to expand when you tighten you secondary Hub after you set your deflection.

6. Take a small screwdriver and gently pry off the "O" ring and set it aside.

7. Take a hack saw an gentley cut thru the slots.

8. Blow off any debris.

9. Re-install the "O"ring.

10.Re-install the nipple inside the Hub, (This is the hardest Part - Make sure you "center" the nipple and gentley tighten the nipple into the Hub being sure not to Cross-thread the nipple) Once you get the nipple to thread into the Hub, dont fully turn it in, (That's for later)

11. Insert the Hub back into the secondary and tighten until it contacts the secondary sheave.

12. RE-SET your deflection.

13. Tighten the nipple FIRM until you think are almost tightening TOO tight, Then stop.

14. DONE, ride it around and re-check your deflection----------- No more changing deflection.

Slim, I noticed you used the word Nipple a lot.....are you obsessed?

btw, it worked so far on mine, thanks Slim

 

[CanDoo]

If the belt is slipping it is because you don't have enough adjustment. If the belt is broken in you could more or less take the black adjuster out and toss it in the garbage because the belt will be loose at full closure of the secondary. Machining the secondary allows the secondary to close more and give you the adjustment you need to keep the belt tight. If the belt is loose because it is broken in cutting the adjuster won't do anything for you. Once you get a wider belt or machine the secondary cutting the adjuster will help you keep the secondary in adjustment. I found with the adjuster just barely gripping the secondary it would spin out because of the poor belt deflection. Machining or running a wider/shorter belt is the only thing you can do to get proper deflection on the 166 belt. BRP screwed the machining up. It doesn't close like it should. Take it apart and you will see what they were trying to do but they missed the mark and the inside collar is to long hitting before the 3 little feet do.

The dealer in Golden did this with all the sleds before they left his dealership...so mine is going there in the next day or so to have it done...and i will have the 19 tooth gear put in also...I expect all of my clutch issues to go away...

Thanks for all of the input and help here...

T

 

[johnny be bad]

seen the brp bullitin today! there putting out a wider belt with a different compond,to help fix the xp belt problem, should have belts in january.

 

[CanDoo]

seen the brp bullitin today! there putting out a wider belt with a different compond,to help fix the xp belt problem, should have belts in january.

got a belt # for that?? when in January?

Thanks.

T

 

[johnny be bad]

got a belt # for that?? when in January?

Thanks.

T

the dealer didnt say! i was in getting one warrantied today and he showed me the bullitin from brp. basically it said new belt coming, that is wider and new compound that will take the heat?it also taked about gearing? will ask tomorrow for a copy of the bullitin!