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Secondary Helix Bolts?

Chewy22

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I tried changing out the helix. Stripped the first two allen head bolts I tried. Ton of heat and smacked the heads and no luck. Will try hammering a torx bit into them or may have to drill the heads off.

Is there a better bolt to use? I had better luck with the torx head bolts that were on the 19 secondaries. Looking for a better replacement option. The allen head ones suck!!
 
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When I changed the helix out I drilled the heads off then used an easy out to get the rest of the bolts out. Make sure you center up well when you drill the heads off as it will make it easier to drill for the easy out. The helix bolts are metric not standard threads.
 
probably has a decent amount of loctite on them maybe takes more heat? seems like i had trouble on a clutch too was afraid to put too much heat on it but thats what it took
 
Either zrp sent me the wrong secondary helix bolts or cat changed them from the ascender bolts. Still haven’t dug into what the deal was. I bought em because I had an issue getting them out of my ascender
 
How long are they




 
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Could easily get some from McMaster or other supply house as well. I would recommend locktiting the bolts though. They come with a patch lock. You should heat the sheave where the threads are ahead of removing.
 
How long are they





This is based on the comment of 12mm or 12.7mm/ 1/2" long. Double check the numbers before ordering, but McMaster is pretty handy for hardware. Not always the cheapest, but sometimes they can be.
 
Finally received my Ibexx kit and after getting one more ride on the stock clutching Saturday decided to throw the kit in yesterday. Primary went pretty quick on the sled, but those secondary bolts definitely turned into a crapshoot. I used my good Allen keys and as much heat as I dared and was only able to successfully get one out. They used red loctite from the factory. Ended up drilling the heads off to get the helix out then welding nuts to the screws with my little 110 wire feed to turn them out. Went pretty smooth other than one that I drilled a bit deep so it was pretty much recessed in the clutch, after going through about 5 nuts I finally got it to hold though. Just wish I would have done a bit better job of covering the clutch, got a bit of splatter on the backside of the sheave so it’s not so pretty. If I was to do it again I’d probably just go straight to welding the nuts to the head of the screws. Installed the bdx screws on reassembly, they came with blue loctite on them so I called that good enough.
 
They can be a pain for sure. I had to use an impact driver with my good allen bit and of course heat on a couple of them. I was able to find 10.9 harness replacements at my local Do It Center hardware store. The clamping load doesn't require a screw that strong, but I didn't want to deal with anymore stripped out fasteners just in case I had to take it apart again.
 
I didn't have much trouble. Plumbing propane torch with good allen bit and impact. I used the BDX kit that came with new torx bolts. I definitely wouldn't use the stockers again.
 
So can you guys opening up the driven clutch confirm that they came from the factory with 180/240 (0648-979) spring as stated on the Spec sheet. My sled came from the factory with a different Primary then stated on the Spec sheet. 858 Sno Pro 154-2.6"
 
This is what came out and went into my 154 3" base sled.
 

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Looks nearly identical to a Polaris Secondary. Thanks for comfirming, i can see that they did use the 180/240 like the spec sheet shows.
 
Do the adapt secondaries use the same helixes as the ascenders? Want to swap out one if so....
 
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