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Sag Numbers

Look up the Skinz Protective Gear YouTube series "shock therapy". They ultimately use Fox Air on the sled however the basic principles are still the same.
Either way you have way too much rear static sag.
 
I started this thread to determine what excessive sag is. Stock in season 155, the rear was blowing right through and smacking the stops hard on small stuff. Installed some Elka shocks and sag looks roughly the same but no bottoming unless expected. I am getting more push but I feel that is due to the front riding slightly taller and stiffer. No adjustments yet, out of the box settings so far.

Can anyone share their stock sled sag numbers for reference since I forgot to get them before I removed the shocks? How about using the end of the lip on the tunnel as a point of measure for the rear and in the front, the center body line on the bottom tub where the stock bumper brace attaches through the tub?

Understood.

I would assume the shocks are stock stroke and length correct? If this is true, I'd measure sag on the actual damper, not off some part of the sled as this can cause a lot of variance.

Many have noted the compression damping of the stockers to be underwhelming. I'd argue this is why you were bottoming stock stuff.

End of the day, what someone else said is true - go with the Skinz method, its the most scientific way of dialing in your sled's suspension.
 
Understood.

I would assume the shocks are stock stroke and length correct? If this is true, I'd measure sag on the actual damper, not off some part of the sled as this can cause a lot of variance.

Many have noted the compression damping of the stockers to be underwhelming. I'd argue this is why you were bottoming stock stuff.

End of the day, what someone else said is true - go with the Skinz method, its the most scientific way of dialing in your sled's suspension.

Skins method is basically what I was asking for in my last post. Pick a spot at the very end of the tunnel(or front end) and measure. Assuming same brand and same length tunnel, that will be close enough for snowmobiles. Like you know, unweighted measurement or starting point can vary a little, its the difference between that and static(sled only) as well as unweighted and rider(sled and rider) that we want. There is a number in there that works best for our sleds in each terrain. That's what I am looking for but most aftermarket sellers give a coil length and that won't carry over from shock to shock. It's been the staple of moto setup forever, should be easy.

Comp damping is absolutely the culprit of the poor ride. Aftermarket shocks address this, just need a somewhat standard starting point. I'll figure it out and some shock makers give you a coil length to start with but mine does not. I was feeling lazy I guess.

You could measure the shock, like you mentioned, but that is a little harder on the wife or kid that I drag into the garage for help. Ultimately it's where the chassis sits that your after. Also, I could use my Slacker digital sag tool for moto and do it by myself.
 
Skins method is basically what I was asking for in my last post. Pick a spot at the very end of the tunnel(or front end) and measure. Assuming same brand and same length tunnel, that will be close enough for snowmobiles. Like you know, unweighted measurement or starting point can vary a little, its the difference between that and static(sled only) as well as unweighted and rider(sled and rider) that we want. There is a number in there that works best for our sleds in each terrain. That's what I am looking for but most aftermarket sellers give a coil length and that won't carry over from shock to shock. It's been the staple of moto setup forever, should be easy.

Comp damping is absolutely the culprit of the poor ride. Aftermarket shocks address this, just need a somewhat standard starting point. I'll figure it out and some shock makers give you a coil length to start with but mine does not. I was feeling lazy I guess.

You could measure the shock, like you mentioned, but that is a little harder on the wife or kid that I drag into the garage for help. Ultimately it's where the chassis sits that your after. Also, I could use my Slacker digital sag tool for moto and do it by myself.

FWIW, this is the video I'm referring to. It does not utilize sag at all.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O8FFQHetosw
 
Skinz claims most sleds should have 3/4" to 1" of sag.

This is measured by pressing down on the front end a few times, setting a zip tie around the piston, where it enters the body, and then raising the sled up off the ground.. the distance from the zip tie shuold be no less than 3/4" and no more than 1".

This is easy to do on Fox Floats...and bit tougher on coil overs (you'd need a flexible tape measure)
 
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