rt 1000 bog

[imobdeep907]

ive got a 2005 rt 1000 with all the updates but i dont have the thermostat in it.. that is the only thing i am lacking.. i have a boondocker box but i havent messed with it much and all the settings are on zero... i messed with them a but but the bog that i have didnt go away.. and when i pulled the plugs they were about perfect color... at first i thought the bog was just in deep snow or on a steep hill or carving.. but ive also had it bog while racing across a lake.. any help at all guys ? when the sled doesnt bog, its upstop able.. but when it does.. i find my self having to feather the throddle to make it up a hill.. or to finish my side hill.. or whatever.. any help at all please!!

 

[imobdeep907]

Anyone?? Please

 

[zxsummitrider01]

could be your your e-raves sticking from being dirty or the actuator could be starting to go out. just a thought

 

[diamonddave]

Are you running twin pipes?? Here's just a tidbit of what can cause bogging:

Check fuses and relays (swap relays even) they can stick

Verify battery has at least 12.5 volts nothing lower

Fill gas to the very top of the tank and ride. This bypasses the low pressure pump and forces fuel into a resevoir that the high pressure pump sits in. very common for low pressure pumps to fail. replace with a napa part #E8012S

Verify that the eraves are working by running sled on the stand with the erave cover removed. usually start to open around 6,500-7,000 RPM

If they are working than a cleaning and adjusting of the raves and cables would be ideal. Check cables and valves for binding when you remove from actuator. The gears can swell also causing them to not fully open...causing your bog

Verify that you're running the 07 mid altitude programming. This is BY FAR the best for power and proper runnability. If not take it to the dealer and have it uploaded and the TPS synchronization performed.

If you have a different can or stock exhaust, give it a try. I had 2 defective cans in 06 that caused bogging intermittently and felt just like defective fuel pumps.

Make sure you have clean reeds and throttle bodies as airbox is TERRIBLE for allowing belt dust to enter. This is also terrible for the crank and bearings

Verify that you do NOT have any check engine lights coming on. Codes can only be read by the dealers scan tool

Replace fuel filter and test pressure. Should be 58 psi

Make sure that the intake grid for the outer airbox isn't pluging up with snow causing little to no air to get in and....Bog

 

[imobdeep907]

no twin pipes.. i run a single ceramic coated dyno port pipe and a thing can... i will try the relays... the battery is brand new...i will check the e-rave valves..im gonna give the dealer a calll tommorow and see if its been updated to 07..ive got pod filters.. so i think the belt dust problem isnt the issue...no codes in motor.. just had it in the dealer to get the wiring harness replaced because of a code.. im thinkin the fuel pump is probubly the problem... what is the downside of not installing the t-stat ?

 

[imobdeep907]

How do I test that low pressure pump? And how hard is it to
Replace??

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

when you click the RER button before start can you hear it chugging away??

i moved mine to the footwell anyways just so its easy to deal with if need be.

i know the guy before me had a HPS can on it and it made a weird bog in the sled, when i switched to pods the thing loves that can, i ran a dynoport for a while and it worked fine as well.

what RPM is the bog at, describe it in detail a little more... does it stutter in higher RPM??

i would say just for good measure pull out your eraves and give em a good cleaning, i know mine gummed up pretty good, no huge power gains, it just seemed to run a little smoother afterwards.

replacing the low pressure pump aint bad.
-take of both mag side motor mounts, prop the motor up using a 2x4 or somthing and pull it out, sorta tight in there but rerouting the hoses and mounting the pump down by the base of the chaincase makes it super easy to deal with if you need to.

 

[imobdeep907]

Yea when I push RER I can here in... It doesn't Always bog, that's what's makingme think it could be the fuel Pump... The bog is like when I crack the throddle wide open it runs good then it will bog and drop rmps... And if I'm not mistanken... It always happens later in the day... So that's another reason it leads me to believe it's the pump...

 

[diamonddave]

I stated it in the above post....fill the tank to the top with fuel and this will bypass the low pressure pump and fill the resevoir that the high pressure pump sits in (high pressure pump is in the tank)

You can also check the fuel pressure at the rail...58 psi

The purpose of the low pressure pump is to keep the resevoir filled with fuel as the fuel level goes down. By filling the tank to the very top and riding to verify runnability, this will tell you if it's your problem.

Filli it to the very top and ride, if problem goes away, it's definately your fuel pump. If you ride back country, my advice would be to replace it anyway, relocate it over by the battery on the footwell, Hard solder the wires at the pump AND at the left side of the bulkhead below the instrument panel (reports of connections and wires have fallen apart in the past)

Replace it with a napa part# E8012S which is a Chev 6.5 diesel lift pump. The pump that BRP installed as an update in 05 and factory in 06-07 was a napa610-1050 made by Facet. It's a universal pump. It's garbage!

 

[diamonddave]

what is the downside of not installing the t-stat ?

Only your crankcase running at 120 degrees on the trail and jump off for some boondocking and have it drop down to 50 degrees. The crankcase has expanded with the heat on the trail. The crankcase shrinks when the cooling happens and then the bearing comes to a halt.

If your a trail rider only, then it's not as critical. If you have lots of money for cranks, then it's not as critical.

 

[imobdeep907]

I stated it in the above post....fill the tank to the top with fuel and this will bypass the low pressure pump and fill the resevoir that the high pressure pump sits in (high pressure pump is in the tank)

You can also check the fuel pressure at the rail...58 psi

The purpose of the low pressure pump is to keep the resevoir filled with fuel as the fuel level goes down. By filling the tank to the very top and riding to verify runnability, this will tell you if it's your problem.

Filli it to the very top and ride, if problem goes away, it's definately your fuel pump. If you ride back country, my advice would be to replace it anyway, relocate it over by the battery on the footwell, Hard solder the wires at the pump AND at the left side of the bulkhead below the instrument panel (reports of connections and wires have fallen apart in the past)

Replace it with a napa part# E8012S which is a Chev 6.5 diesel lift pump. The pump that BRP installed as an update in 05 and factory in 06-07 was a napa610-1050 made by Facet. It's a universal pump. It's garbage!

Thank you diamond dave.. you have been very helpfull.. and im a mountian rider, so im gonna have to test that fuel pump this weekend.. and if its that.. im gonna replace it and at the same time, im gonna put in that 08 800 T-stat. thanks so much everyone

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

yeah, if its happening only later in the day, that would make sense that its a low pressure pump as its getting less and less help from gravity, its worth changing it since its easy enough to do .

 

[bluemtnsnoguide]

One thing I didnt see any one suggest when was the last time you check your primary clutch, I had the same problem, runs good rips andthen once in a while bogs, took to dealer was primary clutch.

 

[On a Doo]

Only your crankcase running at 120 degrees on the trail and jump off for some boondocking and have it drop down to 50 degrees. The crankcase has expanded with the heat on the trail. The crankcase shrinks when the cooling happens and then the bearing comes to a halt.

If your a trail rider only, then it's not as critical. If you have lots of money for cranks, then it's not as critical.

Well stated Dave, well stated. I do not have lotsa $ for cranks hence the Tstat is in!!

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

i find that drop brackets, shortened snow flap and a 162 in a 151 tunnel with no rear cooler really keeps mine running in the ideal zone even in deep snow. i know what it feels like in cold mode, it has NO power, and i have never had that happen other than sitting for a while, like lunch or a big stuck.

but i wonder if that kicks on or something, that makes it suck pretty bad.

 

[diamonddave]

i find that drop brackets, shortened snow flap and a 162 in a 151 tunnel with no rear cooler really keeps mine running in the ideal zone even in deep snow. i know what it feels like in cold mode, it has NO power, and i have never had that happen other than sitting for a while, like lunch or a big stuck.

but i wonder if that kicks on or something, that makes it suck pretty bad.

Are you running a digital temp gauge? I thought I had an idea, but after I installed one...I realized I had no idea. Just remember, if you're running it too cool, then the ECM is adding a ton of extra fuel (cold start/choke) and we all know what happens to the oil when there's too much fuel...this is just as bad as the coolant temp swing extremes imo.

Those first couple years, providing BRP's R&D on our own dime with ZERO support were interesting to say the least. It made for some serious technical riding when you dropped into areas the sled wanted to try and DIESEL out of.

 

[bluemtnsnoguide]

I had a bound/broken up roller in my primary, replaced all 3 rollers cured the problem. Sounds very similar of what was going on with me at the time, I thought it was erave problems or fuel also, just something else to check. Also any help on this t-stat issue, doesnt look like enough room for a t-stat in the 1000 housing?Does the whole housing have to be replaced?

 

[DSMREV]

i got my t-stat from jegs for 40 bucks takes ten min to install... it sounds like a fuel issue... try cleaning the carbs. clean tha air boxes. and check your reeds make sure they are not lifting or seating improperly.

 

[bluemtnsnoguide]

NO carbs on 1000 fuel injection sdi