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RSI keith curtis bar

T

timcomfy

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I just bought some Keith Curtis bars from RSI. I had a little mishap and bent the stock ones, and heard good things about these bars. I bought them, and I have a few questions on it. I have a 2013 RMK 800 (Not a pro)

The rsi bars are about 2.5 inches higher than the stock ones, and my brake line is a little short. I think I can make that a bit longer. But, there is wiring going to the brake module that doesn't get any longer...any suggestions? And also the throttle on the other side is a tad short too. Really mad i didnt think of this before I bought them:face-icon-small-fro

The grips from rsi are also a lot longer than the stock ones, so how should I put the brake module on? Over the grips? Or should I cut the grips down? :help: I will attach some pictures so you can see what I mean.

20150115_184713.jpg 20150115_184740.jpg
 
Those bars were meant to replace the pro taper bars. If you extend the wires and get everything installed you might find the bars to be a wee bit tall. If it was mine I would install a shorter riser.
 
Yeah, I would go to the Burandt Bars or the Dan Adams Nxtlvl. Those should get to your correct height unless you want taller.

Also if you get in there, usually there is some slack to pull out to get a little longer wires.
 
agree with crash above about the risers. also, just cut an inch or 2 off the grips.
 
I found my dads old riser for his m1100 turbo, and im just going to use that:lol:Thanks for the suggestions! I do have one more problem though. The brake line runs underneath the metal "pole" as pictured in the picture below. The extra length I would need to make this setup work would be from re-routing the brake line over that metal "pole". Do I have to drain the brake fluid? And if so, how?

Thanks!

Snapchat--2339659180413324093.jpg
 
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Can you pull either the brake caliper or the master cylinder without the lever off and pull it through and route it over the top? That would keep you from breaking any fluid fittings loose. It's also VERY easy to unbolt the over structure.
 
There is enough flex in the over structure of you remove the 2 bolts that are in the pic you circled and pull that one side up 1/4" to get the brake line on top of the over structure
 
You must be 7 ft talk to want that set up!!

I am 6 feet!:rolleyes: I do like the higher bars, but clearly my sled doesn't let me:face-icon-small-ton. I bought these because I didn't want to go back to crap stock ones. I don't even know if re routing that over will give me enough slack, but hopefully it will be the fix!
 
I'm 6'2" and the stock bars work good for me. I would think you would be more than good with the Keith bars alone. Get rid of the riser all together.
 
You don't want to be stretching all the electrical connections to the max. You will regret that!!
 
There is enough flex in the over structure of you remove the 2 bolts that are in the pic you circled and pull that one side up 1/4" to get the brake line on top of the over structure

You sir just saved my *** a lot of time. Thanks a bunch it worked perfect! The brake line is long enough now and so are the other connections. I ended up unbolting those two bolts and pulling the brake line right under it.
 
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You sir just saved my *** a lot of time. Thanks a bunch it worked perfect! The brake line is long enough now and so are the other connections. I ended up unbolting those two bolts and pulling the brake line right under it.


Nice!
 
You sir just saved my *** a lot of time. Thanks a bunch it worked perfect! The brake line is long enough now and so are the other connections. I ended up unbolting those two bolts and pulling the brake line right under it.

This is exactly what I had to do on my standard when I put 6" risers on.

Oh and are those Curtis bars got a little bit more upward tip than the pro tapers or how do they compare?
 
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