RPM's

[Ihntdux]

So Ive got a 06, m7 153 powerclaw, speedwerx pipe and can and no clutching done. Running on the trail she runs good at 7800-8000 RPM. Hillclimbing she runs good untill about halfway up where it drops to any where from 6600 to 7000 RPM. Which is huge, it almost just brings you to a stop. Im riding anywere from 8000' to 11000'. I changed to a different belt and had the same issue but both belts are about out of life. Is this in my clutching or what do I need to look at? Ive got the stock 68g and yellow spring in Primary

 

[m7]

I also have 06 m7 and had same issue, so i started playing with clutching and asking questions trying to get a full understanding of how clutches work. Mine was clutched for 3000-6000 feet so at about 5500 feet it would fall flat on its face 6800rpm - 7300. Long story short what i found is if you ride 3000-6000 then clutch it for 6000-9000.

 

[SLEDIOT]

You need to start with 66 gram weights and tighten yer secondary spring via the teflon bung or a good aftermarket secondary/tortional kit. Iuse the OVS kit on my m7-900 and the rkt kit on my m1000 both work well and help with the fine tuning. There is a legend on yer left front shock tower that tells you what weights you should be using and the springs to go with them. M7 guy you definately have a back shifting issue if its clutched for 3-6000 and it falls on its face at 5500. Start yer clutching on a fresh belt that has been broke in properly and you will get good results. Good luck...........

 

[Ski-Laxn]

What snow conditions do you ride. My setup is as follows for powder. Primary arctic cat gold with 1/4" of shims, 65G weights. Secondary BMP torsional with there black spring, and 36* helix. Works great and holds strong. I run the same altitude. Works great in Powder. Would recommend orange and white primary spring if you like a high engagement. Also recommend hard rock rollers.

 

[Ihntdux]

I ride everything powder, corn and set up snow. It would be nice not to have do mess with it all the time but if it works and runs better than its worth it.

 

[Ski-Laxn]

Then go with the yellow and white and the rest of the setup and you will be very pleased. Secondary spring in middle hole.

 

[Killerk]

First off you need to start with a new belt.
Otherwise you are chasing your tail.

 

[furthur]

I've been real happy with the gold primary so far...until I tried to ride wet spring corn snow. Even then it was ok, but it was a day that stopping was NOT ok...a lot like water-skipping. The snow was wet, heavy, and rotten clear to the ground. I had a couple of stucks that I could not get the track spinning to get going again. I think, for the last two-four weeks, the yellow-white or even orange-white might be better.

John

 

[bigjb]

One thing I have noticed playing around alot this year is these sleds seem to be sensitive to belt deflection. Get that set right and makes a big difference. Check the rollers on the secondary too, may be shot. I don't have any expereince with the stock secondary spring but it is rather soft around mid shift which would not alow it to back shift like a stiffer spring would. Alot of people are using the orange m8 secondary spring to get better back shift.

 

[SLEDIOT]

You can also try the D&D maroon secondary spring. I used that with my stocker M7 and it worked well. I never had to adjust the teflon bung with that spring.........

 

[Ihntdux]

Plenty of different things to try. Thanks guys one of thes solutions should work. Ill start with belt deflection and go from there. Our snow is getting limited down low but the forest service gates open next weekend so we can then drive up to the snow!!

 

[Killerk]

You also may want to remove the belt, compress the primary and inspect the weights, bushings, and rollers... The bushings may be worn wich will **** the weights and put them on a bind.
If they are too bad, they will make contact with the cutouts in the spider.

 

[cpa]

Like others have said, before you do anything get a new belt.

 

[sledtahoe]

belt deflection

New belt , and make the deflection as tight as possible.If that does not do it .CLUTCHES for sure.

 

[Vern]

one more thing to maybe consider, are you still running the original primary clutch? how many miles are on it? the bushings in the stock m7 clutch are garbbage and dont last long at all and that can cause performance issues. we lost the primaries this year on all three m7s in our group all with mileage between 1800-2500. mine was the worst and ended up crackin the spider to where it spun on the shaft, and the other two just chewed up weights. mine was wobbly for sometime but i tried to make her last the season, but didnt happen. the down fall is you cant replace the bushings, either the hole clutch or the shieves with bushings already installed.

 

[Ihntdux]

I took my clutch off about a month ago, after I noticed this and took it all apart. The rollers and everything are in good condition and I put a new yellow white spring in it thinking it was the spring. This is my second primary with 2300 miles. My first one pretty much blew up like Verns. This clutch has about 1000 miles on it. I think im going to check my deflection, use a new belt and go from there. I appreciate all the help guys!!