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RPM fluctuation/reasons

winter brew

Premium Member
Lifetime Membership
Just a list of possibilities off the top of my head, feel free to add to it!!!


RPM drop/fluctuation:

Most of this has been covered in various threads but though it might be a good idea to put it all together.
Clutch calibration: the first place most people look……if the the RPM was good and THEN something changed, it is highly unlikely this is the problem.
Clutch wear: this is very common, mostly primary clutch wear….bushings, arm pivots, roller bushings, roller flat spots, sometimes the ramp itself. Sometimes one roller or one bushing being sloppy is enough to cause RPM fluctuation. The spring cap bushing on ’07-’08 is VERY common, would recommend replacing with updated cap on EVERY ’07-’08 TRA7.
Belt: new belts will typically run low RPM for first 10-100 miles. Different belt #’s or brands with different dimensions and compounds also cause RPM variation.
DPM solenoid: Common enough that Doo has a bulletin on this. If the solenoid doesn’t function properly the sled will run rich and cause RPM drop….more pronounced at higher elevation. We have found this to be a common cause of RPM drop and a quick cure for “clutch” ;) problems. Take out the solenoid and make sure it functions, use a little WD-40 if it is sticky and make sure BOTH of the 2 O-rings are intact.
Exhaust valve: Make sure they function….check all vacuum lines are connected and snug fit.
Power output: have had several cases where they are just plain down on power. Not all sleds are equal. We had 3 identical (stock) sleds we set up identically (clutching, suspension etc...)…..2 run strong and no problems, 1 runs weak with no apparent problems. This is where compression should be checked as well as crank run-out. A couple customers have had unexplainable low RPM issues and lost cranks the next ride.
Limp-mode: There is a update for ’08-’09 (mostly a issue on ’09) for knock sensor sensitivity and reset. Make sure to get this update!
Aftermarket “performance” parts: this is a big category!! There are some combinations that just don’t work! Some pipes, silencers, heads etc…that are supposed to add power can cause RPM issues. The one we hear about and see the most lately has been too much compression for a given altitude and fuel. I’m no engine guru and can’t give a technical explanation, but in almost every case of low RPM with high compression, simply lowering the comp ratio and /or adding octane has cured the problem and shown much better power….even if there was no detectable detonation to begin with.
 
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Question: you mention belts what belt is the flavor these days? Was at the stealer the other day and they have three different ones now for the xp and could give no explanation as to why or what one would be best. I'm running a 286? i think. Never liked the 377.
 
Question: you mention belts what belt is the flavor these days? Was at the stealer the other day and they have three different ones now for the xp and could give no explanation as to why or what one would be best. I'm running a 286? i think. Never liked the 377.

The only belt I would run on a XP is the -377....with our setup the -377 or the -288.
 
Wrong or contaminated fuel will cause rpm fluctuations as will temperature problems as in eng temps and clutch temps. How about snow or moisture on the clutches. I have even had snow conditions fool me. Intermitent spark problems as in plug cap gunk and resister caps etc. Even snow blocking the exaust.Intake leaks and even clips coming off the needles. I have even seen the tubes wear out in the carbs. Most off mine was in the spring ride when the heat would loosen the hoses on the exhaust valves and solenoids.
 
The only belt I would run on a XP is the -377....with our setup the -377 or the -288.

Hey Brew
Is there any advantage to the 288? Was thinking of trying one.No problems with the 377. I thought I read somewhere about losing 200 rpm with the 288
Thanks.
 
Hey Brew
Is there any advantage to the 288? Was thinking of trying one.No problems with the 377. I thought I read somewhere about losing 200 rpm with the 288
Thanks.


288 and 377 are within a clicker position with our clutching. Both good belts, some prefer the feel of one vs the other.
 
Brew asked me to add to this great post.

-New belt that measures 1-3/8 near wear limit (1.366) (customer does not measure width before they buy)
-08 & 09 model that has secondary rollers that touch the secondary casing (dragging roller forcing fluctuating rpms)
-383 belt (low rpms for a few tanks of fuel, proper rpms for a few tanks of fuel, then rpms all over the place after that, then BOOM!
-383 belt stretching (rubber internal dislocating)
-Throttle cable out of adjustment (had 4 customers who could not get proper rpms - throttle slide only up 4/5ths.)
-Aftermarket quick clickers (complete clicker)
-Gearing lower that exceeds the usable range of primary spring final force
-Not knowing what ramps are installed in clutch (2nd hand sled) or (dealer took out 413's or 441's and installed 417 w/o customer know.)
-Head/Y-pipe combination that wants to run "early" - example; engine wants to run 7900 instead of former rated 8150
-Pipe surge from head modification.
-Removing shims and/or swivel washers from secondary clutch
-Belt deflection
-Engine compression variation cold vs operating temperature
 
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Winter Brew and/or DJ,

Just in the snowies for the last five days. Not sure if I am experiencing the same issues you have both described regarding RPM fluctuation, but here is what I did experience. Day 1: sled ran great, small flat spot around 6000 to 6500 RPM, felt like full shift out on clutch. Day 2: mid-day no mid-range power, at 7000 RPM sled would take off and than over rev to 8300/8400. Changed plugs, appeared to be running rich. Day 3: cont. no mid-range power and only hit 7600 RPM. Purchased and installed new DPM solenoid. Day 4: numerous clicker settings no power.

Day 4: took primary apart and inspected(i'm no expert) slight wear on buttons, rollers looked good and arms as well. No real belt wear evidence on sheaves. Tried a number on combinations with clickers and shockwave. Always felt like clutch was pulling the motor down and would not shift out.

Sled is '08 summit 154 with stock primary and shockwave on the secondary. Running 377 belt. Conditions were pretty similar each day of riding, maybe a little warmer day 2 and day 3. Snow was more set-up each day. Riding at around 9500 to 10500ft.

Hopefully I'm not taking this thread the wrong direction. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Sarcastic Jack
 
If I remember correctly Sarcastic was running the ski-doo pins empty, 19th top, slp highflow intake with powdervalves, and a can. I don't remember what can. All of the DPM hoses where attached.

Cheers
Shawn
 
Brew....i've got a 2007 adrenaline 800 that has fluctuating RPM's like no other. Up in Island park last week and it would hit 7600 on clicker 3 then drop to 7300 and stay. Changed the clicker to 5 and RPM's shot up to 8600-8700, needless to say about 5 miles into the trip at clicker 5 the belt absolutely blew up into a thousand pieces and made a mess. What the hell is up with this sled? Barely has a 1000 miles on it.
 
Something that I found out, I was having a hard time getting R's and tried different clutch set ups, and what not. Still could not get R's, So I took it to the dealer to make sure that my DPM was working properly, and that my throttle position sensor was set correctly. Come to find out at WOT it was only open 83%. And I was told that the RAV valves start to open at 80%. So I was not getting full noise outta my sled and couldn't get pull R's and was fluctuating around 7800-8000 RPM. Getting R's all day now. Who knows how long it was like this, but I re-jetted my sled and may have pulled the throttle out of wack. Something to consider, it was my problem anyway.
 
Brew....i've got a 2007 adrenaline 800 that has fluctuating RPM's like no other. Up in Island park last week and it would hit 7600 on clicker 3 then drop to 7300 and stay. Changed the clicker to 5 and RPM's shot up to 8600-8700, needless to say about 5 miles into the trip at clicker 5 the belt absolutely blew up into a thousand pieces and made a mess. What the hell is up with this sled? Barely has a 1000 miles on it.

All '07's need the updated spring cap/bushing assy (as in first post ;)), and the secondary bushing in '07 are often shot at 200 miles. EVERYTHING in both clutches needs to be in good condition to be consistant.
 
288 and 377 are within a clicker position with our clutching. Both good belts, some prefer the feel of one vs the other.

in straight open hill pulls i liked the 288 better, in the trees and technical riding areas the 377 hits full rpms faster, and thus works better. so for washington, i personally like the 377 better (zing zing!).
 
Winter Brew and/or DJ,

Just in the snowies for the last five days. Not sure if I am experiencing the same issues you have both described regarding RPM fluctuation, but here is what I did experience. Day 1: sled ran great, small flat spot around 6000 to 6500 RPM, felt like full shift out on clutch. Day 2: mid-day no mid-range power, at 7000 RPM sled would take off and than over rev to 8300/8400. Changed plugs, appeared to be running rich. Day 3: cont. no mid-range power and only hit 7600 RPM. Purchased and installed new DPM solenoid. Day 4: numerous clicker settings no power.

Day 4: took primary apart and inspected(i'm no expert) slight wear on buttons, rollers looked good and arms as well. No real belt wear evidence on sheaves. Tried a number on combinations with clickers and shockwave. Always felt like clutch was pulling the motor down and would not shift out.

Sled is '08 summit 154 with stock primary and shockwave on the secondary. Running 377 belt. Conditions were pretty similar each day of riding, maybe a little warmer day 2 and day 3. Snow was more set-up each day. Riding at around 9500 to 10500ft.

Hopefully I'm not taking this thread the wrong direction. Any feedback would be appreciated.

Sarcastic Jack

Anyone have any feedback on this post... any ideas... it has been kicking me in the butt!!!!
 
The digital tach reads about 1-200 RPM high on these things, right?

I usually shoot for 8200 RPM on the digital tach, flashing 8300 sometimes.
 
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