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Rounded Paddle on new sx track

I all, I just got a used timbersled st without the newer tmotion type front arm. The only one I rode before this was the skinnier sx model and it seemed to lean in hardpack more like a bike. Now I see they are offering the sx in the rounded paddle version. I was thinking of cutting a taper to the side paddles on my st to make it lean in on hard snow more like a bike.

Has anyone tried this? I have done it on my sleds before and helped it carve in hard snow much easier. The sleds I cut had a real stiff paddle (polaris assult tracks) It made it kinda like a poor mans t-motion.

The only negatives I can see is the side paddles don't bite as good on some side hills and the back might wash down the hill more under power. a few screws on the outer edge could help in ice or crust. My track is the 1.75" and the soft paddles fold pretty easy.

I know there will be less paddle to climb in deep fluff but I don't care, If I want to highmark, I'll use my turbo apex.....
 
I trimmed my paddles a couple years ago -- it helped a little going up icy roads, but I don't think it was worth it. I ended up getting a flex arm this season and it made a lot more difference. The loss in traction wasn't worth the small gain, in my opinion. There was one ride this year where there as about 3-4" of heavy snow on top of ice and I couldn't sidehill on steeper slopes without sliding out. My riding buddy with a stock track wasn't having any trouble that day.

So if you're trying to make it handle better on hardpack, I think the flex arm is a much better upgrade.
 
Alpha, could you please take an up close pic of what the cut pattern looks like on your track. This would be very helpful. Thanks.
 
Alpha, could you please take an up close pic of what the cut pattern looks like on your track. This would be very helpful. Thanks.

Sure, no problem. I rode more this year with guys with newer kits and it seemed like there was consistently a difference in how well they were hooking up compared to me. I'm sure a lot of that was my 1.75" paddles vs the 2" paddles on the newer tracks, but trimming the edges sure wasn't helping me in the deeper snow. And there was a definite difference on the day when I was sliding out on sidehills and my buddy wasn't.

20150312_222242.jpg
 
The 1.75 has not much padle to start with not the track to have .

We did the edge cut on the 2" tracks and there is no noticable loss there , just a better track.

The New teack from C3 will be the answer for you -- a Buddy has one and it has the cut outside on a 2.5" track Stock -- it outerforms any other track hands down.

And still roles like a bike although not as much as the Hawk track on the SX
 
Alpha, thanks for the input. Im surprised you notice so much difference. That's not much of a cut. My corners would fold more than what you cut off on yours. Is the bigger paddle on your buddies tracks seem stiffer than our old tracks? Last night I cut my paddles down quit a bit more than yours and i rode it today. my outside edge is now running on the stiff base of the paddle so it feels solid and grippier on the hard pack. No screws in it yet. Leaning feels much more like the sx track and more like a dirtbike. In deeper snow the whole track digs in and on the steepest side hills I could still drag the bars against a wall. If the snow is hard, I'm to chicken to do steep side hills so for now the track is meeting my needs.
 
I've been riding it that way for a couple of seasons and there was really only that one ride this year when the snow conditions were just right where it was noticeable. We had another ride that was extreme hardpack where we were sidehilling and climbing insane slopes and it did just fine. There were places that day where we were only leaving a track in the snow an inch or two wide where the edge of the track and edge of the ski were in line. It was a fun ride, but man my arms were tired at the end of the day.

I think the paddles on the newer 2" tracks are a little softer, so they flex better when the track is up on its edge. The differences in hooking up and climbing between my cut 1.75" and the 2" might be a lot of factors other than the cut edges (riding ability, bike setup, etc), but ever since I cut it I've been second-guessing myself, especially after I got the flex arm and realized that it was a better upgrade for fixing what I was trying to fix.
 
cut'n rubber

I have cut all my tracks with a rounded profile looking for better/different hard snow performance. My newest track 2.5 144 very stiff lug and I profiled it, then cut it some more. I have to say difficult to say there was any advantage handling wise.......hard soft or otherwise snow conditions.

I notiiced the profiled track on a Mtn horse ktm300 at expo yesterday. I would say maybe a little more radical cut that what I have done. Maybe better.

After profile'n 4 tracks, have yet to be overwhelmed. The rock'n front arm is a way bigger better noticeable improvement for hard pack handling.

I have never noticed the profile cut track having any sidehill / extreme sidehill down side............fluff or rock hard crust.
 
Hopefully before the end of this season, I will get a chance to compare it to my buddys newer one with the flex arm. I have a stiff 144 track I could install if I ever decide to go back but I really don't think I want a track that long on a snowbike.

With a little luck It could still snow for the next two months and make up for such a crappy winter.
 
Anyone have a picture or the new sx rounded profile?

Here is mine, Its a big cut I know, but If you ignore the outer 1.25" of each side wouldn't I still have as much paddle area as the rounded sx track?

It is a 12.25" wide and the paddle is still an inch tall at the 10 width.

IMG_20150312_164856180[1].jpg
 
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I have the c3 129 and it flat out kicks *** in all conditions. The added bonus is reduce rolling mass and feels like I have more HP. Riding in a group of all same 2014 yz, 1 has mild porting, 1 stock and mine. Last several rides I am out climbing in all conditions!! Runs the trails and hard pack like a champ.
 
I have the c3 129 and it flat out kicks *** in all conditions. The added bonus is reduce rolling mass and feels like I have more HP. Riding in a group of all same 2014 yz, 1 has mild porting, 1 stock and mine. Last several rides I am out climbing in all conditions!! Runs the trails and hard pack like a champ.

The '16 timber sled track looks a lot like the c3 track. I imagine it will be as good or better. But I don't doubt your track is blowing away all the other timbersleds.
 
doubt what you wish.
After you have some seat time with the track, forward your feedback.
oh and tell me I was right and you can choose to ad the part about you being wrong or not:)
 
I've really contemplated going to the 129 C3 track but after riding a 16LT (pre-demo, still testing) I wasn't nearly as impressed with the longer track as I thought I'd be. Maybe it was the wrong bike setup (KTM500), I don't know, but I figured sticking with the SX 121 was just fine. So question: What track did you come off of for the 129? The Snowhawk or TS powder 121/120?
 
I had a 2011 121 for 3 season then a 2014 120 for 1 1/2 season and that 1/4 inch jump was noticeable but then I went to the 129 and it was a large leap of improvement in all conditions
 
I had a 2011 121 for 3 season then a 2014 120 for 1 1/2 season and that 1/4 inch jump was noticeable but then I went to the 129 and it was a large leap of improvement in all conditions

How about handling? Did the 129 feel any longer or put more pressure on your forks? Also, how big of an improvement was it going from the original hawk 121 track to the ts 120 powder track? What kind of weight difference was there? I've really been contemplating between the c3 129, 120, or ts 2016 120 when they finally come out with it. I know they say the c3 simply cuts every other center lug out to save weight and because of that you lose traction, reading in between the lines that tells me their 2016 will probably weigh more than the c3, but if it has noticeable more traction then maybe that's the way to go??? I don't know.... Choices choices choices
 
no difference in handling with 129 it is only 3-4 inches more track to the ground. 121 to 120 as stated was a noticeable diffence due to lug height. 120 to 129 as stated was a huge improvement. The C3 track is lighter as it is single ply vs double ply, there is staggering of paddles but it flat out works. Also as said lined up 3 2014 yz 450's one stock bike with 2016 st, one with head porting and 2014 ts kit and mine no engine work just track difference and they will admit my bike destroyed theirs in climbing, trail manners and engine seems "like" it has engine mods as bike wicked up quick, was more responsive, ran higher gears in climbs.

C 3 saved me some $$$ I was going to do engine mods with:)

There will likely be a lot of doubters until they try it. Less rotating mass, deeper lug tapered track makes sense but try it and you will be impressed.
 
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