Any info on the single ply yet??
Rob's (f-bomb) track mod, who's done it?
- Thread starter PalousePoo
- Start date
Any info on the single ply yet??
I would much rather use the square head than the phillips because the phillips will strip out faster.
I can't imagine a phillips head small enough that it would bury nicely into the lugs like those #6 1" square drives. The screws that I use and have listed seem to sink right into the lugs so that they aren't exposed. I try to stop just before they distort the lug but prefer them to be into the rubber nicely. If you have dipped the screws in wd40 they seem to drive with less grab and don't distort the lugs. Also note with time and in certain conditions the heads will get exposed and fill or damage so you may experience trouble getting them out to replace. These square screws come in and out easily even after a season of use. I used to install hex head sheet metal screws in a lot of tracks leaving the head out for traction. They will eventually get worn out and then it's almost impossible to get the driver on them if you want to re-install new ones for added ice traction. That is when I went to looking for a different approach and discovered the sunken screws. Also for recreational use we weren't looking for the ice hillclimb traction we were simply trying to stiffen the durameter and get to 2.1 in length on that exact pattern.
What I would do is cut your track and run it without screws. Order the ones that I spec'd and install them when they come in. 1lbs box at home depot was $3.86. If you guys don't have access to home depot and you want some order a set of Better Boards and we'll throw them in the box!
or call us and we'll get you some while supplies lasts.
Cutting tracks...here is another method that I have used and it works magically. For $15 bucks you can buy an electric knife from Walmart. I've cut several tracks down with this and it's even easier and better then the hand held ginsu type knife. Haven't tried the hand held snipper method so can't compare but this technique is way way superior to the air saw and sawzal that I've used prior to hand cutting. The electric knife is so light and it cuts very clean and easy.
once again..generous wd40...line your blade up and start your cut 1mm below the nubs..helps if you pull out on your cut off piece as you are working across the lug. I built a template but the easiest and fastest method on the sled is to do it free hand.
What I would do is cut your track and run it without screws. Order the ones that I spec'd and install them when they come in. 1lbs box at home depot was $3.86. If you guys don't have access to home depot and you want some order a set of Better Boards and we'll throw them in the box!
or call us and we'll get you some while supplies lasts.Cutting tracks...here is another method that I have used and it works magically. For $15 bucks you can buy an electric knife from Walmart. I've cut several tracks down with this and it's even easier and better then the hand held ginsu type knife. Haven't tried the hand held snipper method so can't compare but this technique is way way superior to the air saw and sawzal that I've used prior to hand cutting. The electric knife is so light and it cuts very clean and easy.
once again..generous wd40...line your blade up and start your cut 1mm below the nubs..helps if you pull out on your cut off piece as you are working across the lug. I built a template but the easiest and fastest method on the sled is to do it free hand.
I can't imagine a phillips head small enough that it would bury nicely into the lugs like those #6 1" square drives. The screws that I use and have listed seem to sink right into the lugs so that they aren't exposed. I try to stop just before they distort the lug but prefer them to be into the rubber nicely. If you have dipped the screws in wd40 they seem to drive with less grab and don't distort the lugs. Also note with time and in certain conditions the heads will get exposed and fill or damage so you may experience trouble getting them out to replace. These square screws come in and out easily even after a season of use. I used to install hex head sheet metal screws in a lot of tracks leaving the head out for traction. They will eventually get worn out and then it's almost impossible to get the driver on them if you want to re-install new ones for added ice traction. That is when I went to looking for a different approach and discovered the sunken screws. Also for recreational use we weren't looking for the ice hillclimb traction we were simply trying to stiffen the durameter and get to 2.1 in length on that exact pattern.
What I would do is cut your track and run it without screws. Order the ones that I spec'd and install them when they come in. 1lbs box at home depot was $3.86. If you guys don't have access to home depot and you want some order a set of Better Boards and we'll throw them in the box!
Cutting tracks...here is another method that I have used and it works magically. For $15 bucks you can buy an electric knife from Walmart. I've cut several tracks down with this and it's even easier and better then the hand held ginsu type knife. Haven't tried the hand held snipper method so can't compare but this technique is way way superior to the air saw and sawzal that I've used prior to hand cutting. The electric knife is so light and it cuts very clean and easy.
once again..generous wd40...line your blade up and start your cut 1mm below the nubs..helps if you pull out on your cut off piece as you are working across the lug. I built a template but the easiest and fastest method on the sled is to do it free hand.
Guess i have to bring back the 4 boxs of #6 1inch long philips screws i bought from lowes, and hit up home depot. Glad i didnt put the screws in yet lolF-bomb, is the track on a 07 D7 single ply? If so, can it hold up to the new stiffness of a cut and screwed track?
S
sledneck_03
Well-known member
i just used one of these. i lined the blade up and ran it with the handle against the lug and it cut flawless..........took me maybe 15 minutes with no wd40 or anything. im very picky with stuff looking like **** and they look factory cut.
P
pura vida
Well-known member
thanks rob. yeah the phillips did not counter sink like the few square heads did. i guess i was mainly wondering if it would be as stiff if they weren't counter sunk. the screw heads to scratch on the ice more but it doesn't seem to help with traction at all from my limited tests. guess i'll try to tack down some square heads. h!ll, since i rolled my truck and enclosed with the sled inside and have to pull the motor to replace the bent steering post i should have the time to swap out the screws. that and i no longer have a truck and trailer to go to the hills with... thanks again.
pv
pv
Just cut my track today and I used a utility knife like sledneck_03 and a hook blade. It was really easy and a nice cut. Picked up a box of screws at home depot got a few in, but had to get home. I should have it finished on Thursday. Thanks Rob for the great info!
S
sledneck_03
Well-known member
i was going to use one of those but the ones in the shop were dull, i think that would be even easier.
i keep going to the cat dealer because its close and they have great aftermarket stuff........... MAN i want the hcr track, i keep sitting on the sled and pushing on the lugs and i would love to have hook up like that track
Anybody done this to the 09 163" under boost?? any problems??
Thanks
A big thanks to Rob for cutting and screwing my track. Noticed a huge difference and increased my RPM's by 100. thanks Aaron
A big thanks to Rob for cutting and screwing my track. Noticed a huge difference and increased my RPM's by 100. thanks Aaron
Track
Those of you that have had some time after these mods. What do you think
Those of you that have had some time after these mods. What do you think
2
2strokes_are_awesome
Active member
I just trimmed the track to about 2.1 and it made a huge difference. No negative aspect to it at all. Used a super cheapy utility knife and it took 20 minutes. It took off 6 or 7 oz of weight too so if you use the rotating mass rule its about like losing 3 lbs of static weight.
Did the cut preseason on my 08 D8, like it so far but still breaking in the 2010 update so not a real test yet. Put screws in one lug, didn't like the way it looked (too obvious) so I took them out, but looking at the bend to the lugs, I may go all the way and put the screws in too. I guess I am all in now.
Seemed a little more squirrely (sp?) in the corners on the trail though, maybe because it does not have as many fingers to grab with (since I cut them all off). Not so much as to be worrisome though.
Seemed a little more squirrely (sp?) in the corners on the trail though, maybe because it does not have as many fingers to grab with (since I cut them all off). Not so much as to be worrisome though.
200 miles on mine so far and it hooks up way better than before. I also noticed that it slid around on the trail a little more but that made it kind of fun. I would not think twice about doing this to another track givin the chance.
P
PalousePoo
Well-known member
Approx 300 mi on my 09 with the mod, rode it about 125 mi before cutting and screwing. I think it's LESS squirley on the trail, since now it hooks up. My first ride with the stock track the snow was real icey at the pu's. The sled almost wouldn't even move, just spin. I think it's much safer now when hitting a frozen spot in a climb, the sled won't spin out and come down backwards.
D
deepdiver
Well-known member
after a few different days of testing this track mod compared to my friends with the exact same sled..I would venture to say that mine hooks up considerably better. In soft powder fluff it may not be as noticable..but in all other snow conditions it hooks up better.
Since I did the cut, it seemed like what is left of my lugs were leaning a little more (probably my imagination though), so I started putting in the screws to stiffen up the lugs more... so I figured I am all in on this mod anyway...
As consistent as I have tried to be, especially when starting the screws in, I have had a few where the head pops out the side of the lug instead of burying itself... maybe I did not quite cut enough off so the top is too narrow. I did get all the nib cut off, and most of them came off attached to each other. Used the same Home Depot screws as recommended by F-Bomb. Oh well.
When I come up with the funds and maybe a D&R, I may go with the camo extreme but this is a "free" mod (or a couple bucks for blades and screws)...
Just a question guys.....
If stiffer lugs are the way to go, then why doesn't everyone run an Assualt track on their sleds (has to be a 144-146)?
Just a question...Seems the trend over the last 10yrs has been to get the paddle to pack the snow down rather than dig it away.
Guess I'm a spoiled Alaskan that gets more "dry powder" snow days per year than most.
If stiffer lugs are the way to go, then why doesn't everyone run an Assualt track on their sleds (has to be a 144-146)?
Just a question...Seems the trend over the last 10yrs has been to get the paddle to pack the snow down rather than dig it away.
Guess I'm a spoiled Alaskan that gets more "dry powder" snow days per year than most.
