Rmk Pro pull starter failure.

[proprolaris]

So I was riding on Christmas eve and everything was going well and I was riding through some creek beds and did a little 5 foot drop and then a steep climb up a hill side and I was hearing some rattling like my belt was starting to fray and it was throwing the cords all over the engine compartment so I stopped. I couldn't find anything wrong with the belt so I went to start the sled and the pull cord didn't engage at all. I looked at the pull cord housing and the metal was split wide open on the side so I had to start the sled with a rope on the clutch and I made it back home. I will post pictures later today.
What could have caused this?
How much is it to replace the pull cord internals and housing
And how do I get the housing off?

 

[LoudHandle]

My best guess is the bolts holding the starter cup came out. Or the one nut holding the starter pawl and spring housing came off (does the rope still retract?).

Used Replacement recoils are are cheap as $50.00 on E-bay. There are 8-6mm allen headed bolts (5mm Allen wrench) holding it to the crank case. That much will at least let you get a look inside and see the extent of the damage.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Pulling the two mag side motor mount bolts and prying the engine up helps alot for recoil housing bolt access.

 

[Buster Douglas]

I had one in the shop just like that last week what happened to it was the cps Allen screw came loose and damaged the cps wiring and the flywheel but I couldnt explain the housing splitting like that. But pull the mag side engine mount bolts and the bulkhead exhaust strap and then pry the engine up and then there are eight 5mm alen head bolts and it falls right off only takes about fifteen twenty minutes but cost wise if it damaged the flywheel or the cps or both close to 1000 $ at a dealership if it didn't do any damage internally 100 or so for a recoil assembly

 

[proprolaris]

My best guess is the bolts holding the starter cup came out. Or the one nut holding the starter pawl and spring housing came off (does the rope still retract?).

Used Replacement recoils are are cheap as $50.00 on E-bay. There are 8-6mm allen headed bolts (5mm Allen wrench) holding it to the crank case. That much will at least let you get a look inside and see the extent of the damage.

Well the rope did retract when I was up on the mountain but it didn't engage so I started the sled with a rope on the clutch and by the time I got back to the truck the rope wouldn't pull out at all.

 

[proprolaris]

I had one in the shop just like that last week what happened to it was the cps Allen screw came loose and damaged the cps wiring and the flywheel but I couldnt explain the housing splitting like that. But pull the mag side engine mount bolts and the bulkhead exhaust strap and then pry the engine up and then there are eight 5mm alen head bolts and it falls right off only takes about fifteen twenty minutes but cost wise if it damaged the flywheel or the cps or both close to 1000 $ at a dealership if it didn't do any damage internally 100 or so for a recoil assembly

OK I just hope it only wrecked the recoil housing and compenets and I will be OK if it was just that.

 

[proprolaris]

I got the pics

 

[proprolaris]

Anther pic

 

[proprolaris]

Another pic

 

[proprolaris]

A piece of metal was broken off here

 

[proprolaris]

Another view

 

[LoudHandle]

Ouch, what caused it? Recoil come apart? From the pics, flywheel is hammered, case is toast, obviously need new recoil, Hope it is still under warranty.

 

[proprolaris]

Ouch, what caused it? Recoil come apart? From the pics, flywheel is hammered, case is toast, obviously need new recoil, Hope it is still under warranty.

Yep from what I saw when I took it apart was the recoil springs and hardware came flying apart and broke the case and by the time I got back to the truck they marred up the hub and flywheel pretty good. Yes it is under warranty but I want to ride this weekend and I already bought a new recoil housing and assemblie so I'm just gonna clean out the metal shavings check the flywheel one last time and maybe Jb weld the case chunk back on and maybe not because there was a small hole there from factory anyways. I just don't want to have to deal with the dealer and warranty bull**** I have never used it.

 

[LoudHandle]

Yep from what I saw when I took it apart was the recoil springs and hardware came flying apart and broke the case and by the time I got back to the truck they marred up the hub and flywheel pretty good. Yes it is under warranty but I want to ride this weekend and I already bought a new recoil housing and assemblie so I'm just gonna clean out the metal shavings check the flywheel one last time and maybe Jb weld the case chunk back on and maybe not because there was a small hole there from factory anyways. I just don't want to have to deal with the dealer and warranty bull**** I have never used it.

Your call, as shmucked up as the one trigger is in the one photo on the flywheel it may cause run ability issues or not go into reverse (depending on which one it is). I would hold off on the epoxy case repair, just in case you have no choice but to get it warrantied. Easily a couple grand in parts to make it right again, not counting labor.

In all likelihood, you would get a new short block, from the extent of the damage.

 

[2XM3]

in all seriousness you should just take it to the best dealer around your area for warrenty, cause if you fix it and ride it the way it is, you may hear warrenty void, excess damage from continued riding, ect ect ect. Right now it broke and you had to get back to the truck, but if you knowingly jury-rig it and ride again and she really lets go bigtime good luck on any warrenty coverage.

I've found the best thing is a good dealer and just roll on up, say " uhg sled not run, full warrenty, you fix, uhg" and let them handle it lmao

 

[proprolaris]

Your call, as shmucked up as the one trigger is in the one photo on the flywheel it may cause run ability issues or not go into reverse (depending on which one it is). I would hold off on the epoxy case repair, just in case you have no choice but to get it warrantied. Easily a couple grand in parts to make it right again, not counting labor.

In all likelihood, you would get a new short block, from the extent of the damage.

Ok I might have to use the warranty. Does anybody know how it works. Just go to a polaris dealer and show them the paperwork and explain what happened? Will it cost me any money?

 

[COP-OUT]

warranty

If it's under warranty the dealer will take down the serial number and contact Polaris. It will cost you $50 bucks if the warranty is over a year old.

 

[proprolaris]

Ok does anybody see anymore damage that will occur if I ride it this weekend and just leave the flywheel open and start the sled with a rope on the clutch?
I can also fix the starter hub and flywheel for around 150$ I just wouldn't fix the case. I don't see any damage occurring if I just leave the case like that.

 

[Danbot]

Ok does anybody see anymore damage that will occur if I ride it this weekend and just leave the flywheel open and start the sled with a rope on the clutch?
I can also fix the starter hub and flywheel for around 150$ I just wouldn't fix the case. I don't see any damage occurring if I just leave the case like that.

I understand not wanting to lose riding time...but:
If you hope to get warrantee coverage, the less you mess with it the better. Even disassembling it to the point that you already have might hurt your chances. Keep riding it with an exposed flywheel and CPS damage and blow the motor for some reason... Do you think polaris will want to warrantee it?
Considering the case damage, you might think its not crucial but your resale value down the road will be hurt (unless you plan to hide it from a potential buyer).

You have two clear options at this point IMO.
1 Stop riding and wrenching on it and bring it to Polaris for warrantee asap.
2 Take your chances riding / repairing it yourself, at your expense.

I myself skip warrantee for small repairs since my dealer is several hours away and busy. Most of the time its just easier for me to replace the faulty part myself. My concern with this scenario would be that there might be additional hidden damage, and that broken case is a very expensive repair.