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RMK 900 questions

V

vj_m

Free Member
I've just pick my self up a 06 900 with all the updates done and 64miles on the sled.
i have a few questions for you guys with these things.

1. I find that the snow stays on the running boards alot and its hard to keep ur feet on them. Is it a good idea to drill out every second foot grip in the rows so the water has somewhere to drain out? anyone do this?

2. I have a code flashing 5 blinks and its the o2 sensor. sled idles high around 2100 rpm. is the sensor gone bad?

3. I find it gets hot on the trails, i just did the slp intake and rad removal today and havent had a chance to take it for a burn yet. i just tied the tee back into the resivour with a hose. i bought slp hot air vents for it too the ones for behind the shocks and back sides of the side pannels but haven't put them in yet. will this be enough to keep it cool?

thanks
VJ
 
Answers

#1 snow eliminators or better boards, both are sold on here. Dont drill it will weaken the foot boards

#2 5 binks is exhaust probe sensor, doesnt effect idle.

#3 Did you use the coolant restrictor in the hose at the coolant bottle? If not you need it. You will also want to invest in a set of scratchers.
 
sled

vj_m said:
I've just pick my self up a 06 900 with all the updates done and 64miles on the sled.
i have a few questions for you guys with these things.

1. I find that the snow stays on the running boards alot and its hard to keep ur feet on them. Is it a good idea to drill out every second foot grip in the rows so the water has somewhere to drain out? anyone do this?

2. I have a code flashing 5 blinks and its the o2 sensor. sled idles high around 2100 rpm. is the sensor gone bad?

3. I find it gets hot on the trails, i just did the slp intake and rad removal today and havent had a chance to take it for a burn yet. i just tied the tee back into the resivour with a hose. i bought slp hot air vents for it too the ones for behind the shocks and back sides of the side pannels but haven't put them in yet. will this be enough to keep it cool?

thanks
VJ
Click to expand...

VJ,

wow you pretty much nailed a brand-new sled huh..hope you got a good deal on it..

welcome to snowest..its a great place to gain knowledge, friendship and excellent advice from some really great people in the sport..:beer;

to answer your questions is pretty simple, but please make sure you utilize the search fuction..it will guide you to all your questions..but i, and others like to help anywyas..:D

1. YES the running boards are a terrible design and you will HAVE to get running board inserts..you can get the standard snowelimnators for $100 (there is a set on ebay right now) OR you can do a search on here and find "better boards"..they are much more refined design and come in standard finish or powder coated black.. the owner/designer is on snowest, his name is F-Bomb or Rob..his website www.f-bombracing.com

2. your o2 sensor may be unplugged or needs replaced..but should be simple to fix..

3. ANY and ALL vents made for the 900 will be an improventment to cooling...i would get the shock vents as well at a minimum..but if they make a vent for them..i buy them..you NEED ice scratchers as well..(search summit seeker on here, he makes excellent ones)..why did you loop the "T" fitting back to the bottle, its better then the stock way but un-needed..make sure you BLEED the coolant since you drained alot out removing the radiator..u will get air in it and cause it to run really hot..

i only ran 124 degrees in powder and didnt get above 150 once..any higher than that you need scracthers STAT..

hope this helps..let me know if you need anything else..

p.s. make sure you ONLY run the 3211115 belt and your clutch is shimmed for the belt and your secondary is floating on the shaft .075" and gear it to 19/42 and have your clutch balance...this will all create less belt heat and excel your belt life and performance..

sean
 
One place to check for your idle problem is on the throttle cable. Pull the cover off your handle bars follow your cable down to about where your handle bar mount is and you can adjust it by twisting it with the sled running to determine where you want it to idle at. OR if your running risers you may need to re-route the throttle cable which is easy.
 
right on guys thanks for the info,

SUPER DAVE, iam not sure about what u mean by a restrictor in the line? what if i just put a hose clamp around the hose and squeezed it any picks of one or where i can get one iam pritty crafty:), i might be able to make something if u can give me a little more detail.


And Sean,

ya i got a good deal on it it came with all the slp add ons in the box, its a 159" works really good in powder never goes above 130-135 just on the trails it gets hot if its packed and no dust, i was thinking if i put a IQ Race sno flap on it it might help with the cooling? I have the shock tower vents iam going to install them today.

Nelson,
i do have a riser on it so iam going to take a look at that and check the cable, thats probley my problem.

thanks guys
VJ
 
Last edited:
vj_m, install a set of ice scratchers for when you are on the trail helps wonders. i don't get over 140 with my scratchers down and with out them over 170.
 
BIGGDAWG said:
vj_m, install a set of ice scratchers for when you are on the trail helps wonders. i don't get over 140 with my scratchers down and with out them over 170.
Click to expand...

X2 You won't believe the difference the scratchers make on trails for cooling.

As for the coolant loop I would just cut and plug off the one end that comes from the coolant tank. That way the water pump forces the coolant to your rear cooler.

As for the boards just purchase the inserts, I drilled mine out with approx.12-15 holes at 7/8" size and it helps but still not great.
I weigh 180 and no problems with the boards being weak.
 
The SLP restrictor was just a short piece of round alum. bar stock with a hole drilled through the center. been a couple of years but seems like it was about 3/8" ?
 
Get some for the 08/09 Dragon at any Polaris dealer or Holz are the same thing just a tad shorter.
 
this is how you rad removal should be set up
i got it from one of mountainhorses old posts, the slp union is just a standard 5/8" or maybe 3/4" plastic union (i forgot the size)

900rmkcoolingsysassy-1.jpg
 
also with the slp airbox you cant run a aftermarket bumper and most people dont consider them to be a good powder riding air box as the inlet in the front gets pluged and then it just sucks hot air from under the hood, most people , including myself recomend the fire n ice box.
 
NOTE:

The Union in the diagram is a FULL FLOW union, I recommend a brass one.

AKA "hose mender"

DO NOT use a restrictor in place of that piece in the diagram or you will have BIG problems.

That diagram was drawn before SLP used a restrictor in their Radiator removal kit.

Get rid of that hose loop under the hood
 
Get that EGT sensor figured out as soon as you can, the ECU relies on data from that sensor to set running parameters.

if it is bad the ECU has a limited number of options for fuel and timing and it will usually add fuel and retard timing to preserve the engine from damage.

I had one take a dump on my 2005 900 with less than 50 miles on it.

The sled ran for crap until it was replaced, it burped, farted puked and sputtered anywhere in the midrange and was lacking considerable power up top too.
 
Gettin2old said:
Get that EGT sensor figured out as soon as you can, the ECU relies on data from that sensor to set running parameters.

if it is bad the ECU has a limited number of options for fuel and timing and it will usually add fuel and retard timing to preserve the engine from damage.

I had one take a dump on my 2005 900 with less than 50 miles on it.

The sled ran for crap until it was replaced, it burped, farted puked and sputtered anywhere in the midrange and was lacking considerable power up top too.
Click to expand...

is there any other aftermarket egt sensor thats better then stock. and if not whats this probe acually called
 
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