Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
The are exactly the same except for better rubber so they will bolt right in.
If you have it out...Replace them, Period.
I'd bet yours are bad
Drop me a PM with your phone number.
If you have it out...Replace them, Period.
I'd bet yours are bad
If you have a 900 or 2006 700 (755) IQ... there is a good chance your motor mounts are broken (Torn).
There are a lot of reasons this happens....from the overall torque of the motor, to the position of the secondary clutch on the 2005's to super steep helixes, to poor construction to people
prying up on the motor to get access to parts.
Most of the 2005's that I've had apart have torn motor mounts... many of the 2006 I've done have the same thing.
Belt life, crankshaft failure poor performance and inconsistent running are all symptoms of these mounts going bad.... but some might not really notice with these new 3211115 belts on the sled...
but the performance will be down and this exposes your crankshaft taper to abuse and possible failure.
The fronts more than the rears... BUT if your fronts are ruined, the rears were probably damaged as they try to hold the motor in place by themselves.
The bummer is you cant tell if they are torn until you pull the motor.
It is good preventative maintenance to replace these as they are inexpensive from www.hiperf.com.. they only list the 2006's but they fit the 2005's as well.
#345-512 fronts, #345-513 rears
Listed for 2006 only, but they also fit the 2005's
Get your fuel filters for the 900/755'shere too.... cheaper than the dealer.
If you remove your stock mounts, to see the damage, put it in a vise as shown.
This pic shows a 2005 900 front motor mount. The mount was "laid over" in a vise to show the torn rubber.
This mount looked normal at first inspection!!
IMO, best to pull the complete engine and give yourself the ability to clean and check everything out.
I also strongly suggest replacing all the bolts in the mounts with Grade 8 or better (L-9 or ARP high strength bolts)
(4ea of #18, 2ea #9, 2ea, #16 fro the diagram below.
Now, if you want to go with the ultimate front mount that is basically a bolt in (you will only need to drill 4 holes)... go with Compfusion's mounts (compfusion is a members name on this forum)
super high quality stainless steel, urethane and aluminum components.
The 05... just use the 06 mounts... replace the rear mounts..
Use Grade 8 bolts
AND
Look for the thread on aligning the motor from SW...
Although I disagree that you can actually align the motor (the alignment is set by the front mounts and will return to neutral IMO)... It makes a brilliant point... That the distance between the two rear mounts and distance between the outer surface of the rear-mount mounting ears is different... the motor is more narrow by a fair amount in many of these sleds (2005 900's and 2006 900/700's)
You can shim the rear mounts so that they match the same width as the distance between the mounting "ears" at the rear so that they sit in a neutral position and are not strained from the start.... pretty fast and easy...
Many of the sleds suck down the rear PTO mount and place an in line load (in line with the bolt) on the mount which it was never designed to do...The rear mounts FAIL when an in line load is placed on them.
This problem was prevalent enough that Polaris actually put a thrust washer and urethane puck on the PTO side to help suck down the bulkhead wings without placing undue stress on the LH Rear motor mount, even though it does flex the heck out of the Mag side mount and pulls the general alignment out...
I've seen some sleds go in for this mount update that became "belt eaters" after this was done. (Alignment was pulled out as pointed out by SW)
If you loosen the rear LH mount bolt with the displacement washers in place... you will actually see the bulkhead flex open at that point... when thighened this also stresses the mount casting (#5) in the bulkhead and causes deflection of the PTO side jackshaft bearing location when this is "sucked-down" to the mount. This jackshaft deflection is more evident on the 2005's than the 2006's which mounts the jackshaft (and the bearing-mount-casting) closer to the roll of the bulkhead.
You will notice on those urethane deflection washers a round groove worn in them from constant contact, under extreme pressure against the casing of the LH rear mount (#15)
As long as you do not put any side load on the rear motor mounts...which is what the shimming does.. you should not have any problems as long as your bulkhead is not bent from a wreck.
This being said... most of the 2005's that I've taken apart have torn front motor mounts in them... which you cant tell easily even with the motor out... you have to put them in a vise and lay them over a bit... In ANY case... I recommend that stock-2006 or Compfusion mounts are updated in all 2005 sleds.
You will notice in the dwgs below that the 05 (original) design only had bolt #9 for the LH rear mount to the chassis... This was updated with TSB S-05-06 with the Thrust washer (Called "torque stop limiter and washer") installed in all 2006 sleds. (#1, 2, 14 in 2006 dwg)
I have had a couple of 2005's that I've worked on, that when the distance between the mounts is shimmed correctly... the limiter/deflection washer was removed altogether and the sled vibrated less.
Another problem with the design is that the factory torque-stop (#12)remained in the same position on the 2006's even though the jackshaft was dropped by quite bit. The Torque stop should be placed INLINE with the primary/secondary line.
2005 LH mount Drawing
2006 Mounting Drawing
If a mod deleted it ... you would have received a PM telling you it was deleted.