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OK just do it...everything you have said SCREAMS "trim that track". You WILL love this modification. Based on your comments I am absolutely CERTAIN that you will like the results.
The bad thing is your buddies are all going to think your turbo is so magnificently powerful when a good portion of your performance is going to be hook up.
So now knowing what we know on your deal. Trim and test...then you might try one more additional deal. I put two hex headed 1" screws in each paddle lug of the center but not on the outside so that they don't tear up your cooler covers. I didn't want to install protective strips which is what you have to do if you run screws in every lug. Like I said in my last post that ate some RPM's but I had really good drag racing hook up...plus it still went up a good hill in deep heavy snow REALLY REALLY GOOD. I'm theorizing here for your application but I think that will be YOUR TICKET.
Ok you have convinced me! Will start to cut my track when I get the time to go to the garageAlso, do you got a picture of the track with the screws in? Would like to see how it look. Only negative thing is that here in Norway, its not allowed to use screws or stud on a track in a drag race. But would be cool to se how it would work on really hard packed snow and ice
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Thans for all the advice, much appreciated!
Since the timing seems to play such a vital role in the DTR runs... I'm wondering what the results would be with stock exhaust, stock head, no shim BUT adding the timing key and the PC-5?? (no speculation.... just a real world test)
Kurt, you need to drop a longer set of rods(adding about .250") in one of these CFI-2's with a piston that has had the wrist pin moved up a like amount...I would bet it would really wake a stocker up....or as a fuel injected option.....
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2748746#post2748746
or the more affordable! porting, head , single pipe and PCV-you can't go wrong with that combo!
Curt
I would bet it wont pull it stock(without raising octane)..you can get away with it when you shim the cylinders due to how much its changing the port flow/filling in the chambers..but just adding timing is gonna get you in deto I would think..these motors stock have so much port duration on a pretty short rod ratio which is why you see such a low static compression, and why bumping compression helps them so much...Same question, has anyone tried the advanced timing key on an otherwise stock sled? Is so how did it work?
I know back on the M7's the advanced timing key worked quite well on a stock sled.
Thanks
I was poking around asking about the shim kit, apparently they have to do some more testing, getting some deto in the field so they have to work on it.
not what i wanted to hear, dang