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RK TEk 858 big bore problems, need help.

The TPS is adjusted by volts. what do yo mean by 4 watts?

The TPS needs to have the base setting done either at the dealer ship or with a good multimeter. After that is done then you set up the Load points in the boondocker box like M8magic.. says

yes, sorry volts not watts
 
The compression shouldn't differ by 10 psi. Something is going on there.

My friends 858 sized. The pistons and cylinders were damaged on the intake side.
Kelsey said that happens from lack of oil. We found that the vent in the oil
cap was plugged not allowing oil to flow to the pump causing the failure.
 
I thought I was the only one to seize my 858 kit after only a few miles, I guess not...

The numbers from Kelsey is waaay to lean for lower alt. I told kelsey about my findings.

My pistons were toast from a lean condition the first run with Kelseys numbers.
A local shop has dynoed this setup and had to add ALOT of fuel in lower end midrange to make it work.

This sucks, no pistons available and the season is allmost over.

The PTCW clearance of my setup was measured and verified to be within spec, ring gap ok, enough oil and meticulous heat cycling.

These things are just too lean with the maps, atleast that is my experience.
Sealevel with pump gas and avgas premix 50/50, 12.5 domes.

Pics in his thread if anyone wants to take a look.www.scooterforum.no/index.php?threads/2011-assault-rktek-858bb-long-rod.20409/page-9#post-304572
 
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I thought I was the only one to seize my 858 kit after only a few miles, I guess not....

The numbers from Kelsey is waaay to lean for lower alt. I told kelsey about my findings.

My pistons were toast from a lean condition the first run with Kelseys numbers.
A loca shop has dynoed this setup and had to add ALOT of fule in lower end midrange to make it work.

This sucks, no pistons available and the season is allmost over.

The PTCW of my setup was measured and verified to be within spec, ring gap ok, enough oil and meticulous heat cycling.

These things are just too lean with the maps, atleast that is my experience.
Sealevel with pump gas ang avgas, 12.5 domes.

Pics in his thread if anyone wants to take a look.www.scooterforum.no/index.php?threads/2011-assault-rktek-858bb-long-rod.20409/page-9#post-304572


Could u post those pics please. That site requires you to join
and I don't speak Norwegian
 
rh00. From your first post info it seems to me you are not really a "tuner". That is too bad if you jump into the "mod" world. Especially with EPA and EFI.

You talk about watts but meant volts yet the #`s still don't make sense. You need to sync any fueling box (including Boony box) to your TPS first thing. Boony box is more of a "tuners" box than a PCV because you can change on the fly and you have to punch in your original map instead of download someone's "original". Tuner "error" is more likely. Sounds like you had a couple-three test rides before the "last" 2 km. What elevation? Maybe damage was already done. What kind of scuffing (ring streaking, aluminum transfer) now? Who's borescope said it was ok before? What were they looking for or at? You have a pipe, can? Boony #'s now? Elevation and clutching they were tested and spec'd at?

So many possibilities. It is very hard to get help on the internet if the same "language" is not spoken. If you've never "tuned" before you can do all the "damage" you need to do in the first 10 min.
Not putting you down but IMO if your "modding" you need to have a good knowledge and feel for "modding". Or you need to know a good tuner (not a installer, there is a difference) that has "tuned" your kit before and ask all questions with them. Or you need a complete "package" with builder support.

A complete package should come with detailed and pictured instructions, that is elevation specific, with safe fuel #'s and clutching to match. Pull and go safe with maybe some room to "tune" for your personal likes and area if you feel you've "learned" enough.
SLP and others have been doing this for sometime so it can be done.
 
Kelsey

Maybe we should ship our sleds to Kelsey, I mentioned him picking them up but hed rather us pay shipping and handling, I just cant afford putting any more money into my sled im over $6000 just on stupid kit... good luck
 
rh00. From your first post info it seems to me you are not really a "tuner". That is too bad if you jump into the "mod" world. Especially with EPA and EFI.

You talk about watts but meant volts yet the #`s still don't make sense. You need to sync any fueling box (including Boony box) to your TPS first thing. Boony box is more of a "tuners" box than a PCV because you can change on the fly and you have to punch in your original map instead of download someone's "original". Tuner "error" is more likely. Sounds like you had a couple-three test rides before the "last" 2 km. What elevation? Maybe damage was already done. What kind of scuffing (ring streaking, aluminum transfer) now? Who's borescope said it was ok before? What were they looking for or at? You have a pipe, can? Boony #'s now? Elevation and clutching they were tested and spec'd at?

So many possibilities. It is very hard to get help on the internet if the same "language" is not spoken. If you've never "tuned" before you can do all the "damage" you need to do in the first 10 min.
Not putting you down but IMO if your "modding" you need to have a good knowledge and feel for "modding". Or you need to know a good tuner (not a installer, there is a difference) that has "tuned" your kit before and ask all questions with them. Or you need a complete "package" with builder support.

A complete package should come with detailed and pictured instructions, that is elevation specific, with safe fuel #'s and clutching to match. Pull and go safe with maybe some room to "tune" for your personal likes and area if you feel you've "learned" enough.
SLP and others have been doing this for sometime so it can be done.

thanks GEO.

i can appreciate your take on it and yes i do not know anything about tuning. i have done a big bore before on my 06 REV and never had to touch a thing. i also have had a turbo'd nytro and never had to tune a thing on it. it was plug and play. that is what i understood from reading the RK Tek website that is was a plug and play kit, no where on the site does it state that you have to be a TUNER or have experience with tuning. RK tek provided me with the fuel numbers and clutching set up and the dealer installed kit to those specs.

Directly from RK Tek website:
We ,PURPOSELY, designed this kit to run with MINIMAL changes over stock! Basically, install the 858 kit, control box of your choice, and MINOR clutching changes and you are ready to DOMINATE the mountain!

elevation is 3500 trial in to 5000 to 7500 feet mouton riding, numbers i'm using are what came with Kit and are shown on website. using clutching set up that came with kit as well. rooster weights 7 heel, 2.5 belly, 1.3 tip, had to remove the 1.3 in the tip after second ride.

stock pipe with MBRP can.

I will post some pics once they get motor apart.

Cheers.
 
That 3500' to 5000' range is a bit scarey to me with your head pick. I unload at 3500 and ride to 5500'. On my '13 there is some kind of a change in stock ECU mapping at 4500' to 5000'. Forced me to make a map just for the ride up on my modded '13.

Eth mod would bog and my "good" map would slight det even taking it easy. I run less CR than you.

Doesn`t take much det to cause permanent damage on a fresh motor.
 
Kelsey set me up with the 13.5 heads also but in the drop in kit. I have one spot we unload at around 3000' and quickly climb above 5500' and have noticed the same thing as Geo. I just always run in the eth mode for a few miles and and do lots of brapping. Lol. There's also a big change in the ecu (goes lean) around 7500 I think.
 
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