halffast800)he said it has solid pins in the clutch
and ran it on 3 while riding the trail in MN
---18,8 gram pins
When he went to the hill he put in hollow pins.
---empty hollow thread-able pins 1-3/8 @ 12.1g (plus whatever setscrew)
Who makes the best clutch kit for ditches and mountains with out changing pin weight?
---wish you the best on finding that. Im not saying you wont find that, just saying wish you the best on that (for maximum performance w/o changing pinweight)
I want it to really yank my arms off,
---then you'd have to calibrate per elevation range.
Remember about every 1000 feet direct elevation increase you lose about 5hp-ish.
100% @ 0000' elevation [151hp]
89% @ 3280' elevation [135hp]
78% @ 6560' elevation [118hp]
60% @ 9850' elevation [90hp]
...if you were to be on clicker 2 in minnesota at 1100 feet and go to 9000 feet, you would have 8000 feet elevation increase and lose about 40+hp then according to clicker numbers you would have to clicker up to 8...oh wait, you only have up to 6, so now whatcha gonna do when you observe 7700 rpms and have no more clickers left to play with?
so maybe changing clutching every time would be the answer.
---if you "want it to really yank my arms off" then yes, I would say the slight effort one needs to put into changing the calibration for elevation increase/power reduction, then that would be the best option.
Opinions welcome.
---that's my opinion, don't take my word for it, be diligent and research this out.