Rev 600 clutch engage

[White tail killer]

Hi, i have an 06 600 ho sdi Adreniline, and I'm sorta new to snowmobile clutches. I want to get the clutch to engage at a higher rpm. I have hard that all you need is a 30 dollar spring, and I would much rather do that than get a clutch kit. It engages at ---- ( I'll check tomorrow) and I don't know what a good rpm would be (for the clutch to engage) at something higher than stock to do wheelies and such. What size spring, compression, etc would work on my stock sled, with as little work/ tuning as possible. If anyone has done this how did it work and what did u use and where from?

I am also considering to lower the gear ratio. What would work with the stock chain and get me some better bottom end punch?

Thanks!

 

[revx827]

What track do you have on it? A higher start force in the primary will raise engagement. A stiffer secondary spring would help also.
I will have to look up specs to see what the chain will take.
High engagement/lower gearing will make traction a premium.

 

[White tail killer]

The clutch engages at 3500 rpm. I have the stock track at 121 and 1.5 or maybe 1.25.

 

[revx827]

Gearing should be 22/43 stock. You can go down 2 teeth with stock chain.
I do not like to run at the low end of chain adjustment.
Puts a lot of "dog leg" in the chain. I change the bottom gear or chain.
I like gear ratio to be at the top of chart.
Start force should be 160 and 3600 rpm.
With a 200 start should have 41-4200.
With a 230 start should be around 4500.
Depending on traction and rider weight I would change the secondary spring also if you are looking for more low end. Any studs?
Then it comes down to suspension adjustments.

 

[Visi]

Where would you like your engadment to be? You really need to find out what spring you have. Roughly every 30# increase will give a 200 rpm increase in engadment.

 

[White tail killer]

Thanks guys, I don't have any studs and I really don't know what spring the clutch has right now. All I know is that it's stock. I would like it to engage around 4000 rpms.
One more thing, in a parts magazine it says for a primary spring " force lbs @ 74mm-42mm" and then below that under each different color of spring it says " 160-290, 200-320 or 200-290, etc." is that the number you were talking about revx827? Thanks again guys!

 

[revx827]

Yes. The first # is the start force. If you want around 4000 for engagement. I would suggest a 200 start.

 

[Visi]

I have alot of odd springs on the shelf. Alot of 200-230 engadements with all types of finishes. All new or some with one ride. ll sell them cheap.

 

[White tail killer]

What does the finish # do?

 

[Visi]

It's the amount of pressure in pounds that it takes for the clutch to completely compress. Basicly your top end. Say you have a #290 finish rate and you are under reving, use a spring with the same engagement rate but go up 30# to a #320 to gain RPM on the top end. Say you are over reving with a #350 finish rate. Keep the same engagement rate and drop to a #320. Every #30 will give or take away roughly 200 RPM on both engagement and finish.

Tip - I try to run as little pin weight as possible. Saves ramps and rollers. Causes less wear and longer rebuild times between clutch rebuilds. Do all your RPM adjustment with springs if possible IMO.

 

[White tail killer]

So the lower # the sooner the clutch maxz out, giving full speed at lower rpms and vise versa? If so, what would the advantages be of having that 2nd # higher or lower?

 

[Visi]

That primarily depends on what youre doing on the sled. Hillclimbing and lake racing are clutched very different. Usually a set up clutched hillclimber will over rev across a lake. It also depends if there are mods on the engine.

 

[White tail killer]

Well, the only mods to the engine as of now are... Dangit! Nothing. But reeds, a can, longer/taller track and maybe gearing it down( ill see how I like it first) might be a future possibility. What finish would be close to stock or be a happy medium.


Think

 

[Visi]

Ive never had a 600. My best guess would be a 230 or 260. You really need to see what you have before getting anything though. The tools are kind of expensive but you can make a spring cap compressor. Id bet it wont be a single change one time. You will change stuff up a few times to get everything spot on. Took me all season to get the turbo clutched last year.

 

[revx827]

I agree with clutch parts lasting longer with light springs and light pinweight.
However I dont set mine up like that. Where will you be riding?
If you run a 200 or 230 start you can't very well run a 230 or 260 finish.
Clutching is very subjective. Biggest thing is where and how you ride.

 

[Visi]

Hes right. With these clutches there are 100 ways to skin it.

 

[White tail killer]

not sure, I'd prob have to have someone do it, unless I find some tools. In your mind, how easy for a begginer would it be to change the spring. What tools would be nessesary?

 

[revx827]

http://www.ibackshift.com/article/self-guided-help-135.asp

Couple videos. Its really not that difficult.

 

[Visi]

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_SdnFjcInsA

 

[White tail killer]

That last video was perfect, exactly what I wanted. Thanks. What was the first tool he had, and do you really need it or is their an alternative way to get the drive clutch off? And what would you suggest for the Finish, over revving or under revving, although it would be nice to find the perfect finish, so that it fully compresses at my maximum rpms, should I get one higher or lower to start with? also whats the general idea of ramps and that other stuff? Would that be another thing to try adjusting? Thanks again