BINGO!! Why completely remove it?
Removing trackshaft??
- Thread starter Cat800
- Start date
BINGO!! Why completely remove it?
I have it tore apart this far, those bearings have been known to fail. Thought I would replace them.
A
arctic2009
Well-known member
Yep just do it now and not worry about tearing it apart again.
Removing trackshaft
I too had this problem. Had to remove the track shaft to replace a bad inner bearing on the brake side. As said get the track off. Bolt brake calliper back up. I then put the largest socket that would fit down the track shaft tube on the end of a long extension. Five whacks and presto. 3500 miles on 2010 HCR. If you change the two bearings in the brake calliper housing I strongly recommend a press.
I too had this problem. Had to remove the track shaft to replace a bad inner bearing on the brake side. As said get the track off. Bolt brake calliper back up. I then put the largest socket that would fit down the track shaft tube on the end of a long extension. Five whacks and presto. 3500 miles on 2010 HCR. If you change the two bearings in the brake calliper housing I strongly recommend a press.
B
Bowfisher
Well-known member
What does that tool look like? Here's what I made to do that job.
You mean you weren't swinging the biggest BFH you could find? I think I got it with a 5 pounder but if I could have held that punch and swung a 20 pounder I would have. It's an ignorant beotch that's for sure.
Like M8magic said the freezing penetrating fluid helps too. Try to freeze the shaft and heat the bearing might help. And definitely put the sled on its side
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It looks similar but not as big.
that's what she said!!!!!!!!.................sorry couldn't resist
Takes a lotta patience...
Cat.....this last week I just did this to my 07 M1000. It has 5000+ miles and thought bearings were a good idea.
I used heat and penetrating fluid for a week! I then stacked two very large, very heavy steel blocks up so I could swing a sledge hammer on the end of the trackshaft (with a sacrificial nut on the end). With wood I was losing too much of the "shock" I needed.
8 FRIGGIN SWINGS!!! with the sledge.....after a week of toying around and hitting with dead blows and wood..... and she moved about an 1/8". Once she moved, she came right out.
Proceeded to check bearings, and while the new bearings are perfect, I was shocked at how smooth the old bearings were.
Replaced anyway.
Tap the outer bearing out of the race first. Remove your spacer, remove the snap ring and then press the inner most bearing out. Clean and reverse the process. Scotch brite the trackshaft surface clean, nickle anti-seize and BANG! you'll be good to go for the future.
BTW......you don't need to be paying anymore than about $19 a bearing.
Cat.....this last week I just did this to my 07 M1000. It has 5000+ miles and thought bearings were a good idea.
I used heat and penetrating fluid for a week! I then stacked two very large, very heavy steel blocks up so I could swing a sledge hammer on the end of the trackshaft (with a sacrificial nut on the end). With wood I was losing too much of the "shock" I needed.
8 FRIGGIN SWINGS!!!
with the sledge.....after a week of toying around and hitting with dead blows and wood..... and she moved about an 1/8". Once she moved, she came right out.Proceeded to check bearings, and while the new bearings are perfect, I was shocked at how smooth the old bearings were.
Replaced anyway.Tap the outer bearing out of the race first. Remove your spacer, remove the snap ring and then press the inner most bearing out. Clean and reverse the process. Scotch brite the trackshaft surface clean, nickle anti-seize and BANG! you'll be good to go for the future.
BTW......you don't need to be paying anymore than about $19 a bearing.
It looks similar but not as big.
The BDX seal and driver kit is one handy tool. Have it myself and use it for obvious reasons on the M-series and a ton of other projects as well. Money well spent.
I ground the outer race of the old bearing abit to use as a driver for the new one...
as a last resort if you go ape sh!t crazy with a torch, trackshafts second hand can be bought cheap ..lol..
as a last resort if you go ape sh!t crazy with a torch, trackshafts second hand can be bought cheap ..lol..
Glad I'm not the only one with this problem. We beat on my son's 10 M8 for 2 hrs tonight. Used heat, broke 2x4s, puller on the case to try to pull off the bearing. Finally got the good ole gas axe out and cut the bearings. My question is, Why in the f*$# didn't arctic cat put a grease zerk on the inside of the tunnel side of the case. Just to reach up and give a blast of grease once a year. Would probably make it come apart a lot easier. But I guess that's what they want is to sell parts.
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arctic2009
Well-known member
What would grease do when the shaft is stuck inside the inner race of the bearing? Put anti seize on there before reinstall and it will come out just fine next time.
The grease will work its way in there. The snow obviously does. Surely wouldn't hurt. Its bull**** you have to use a sledge hammer or a torch to get the shaft out. Piss poor design. I see why they got rid of it. Among other reasons
if you spray the drive shaft with wd40, where it goes into the DD and the brake housing, after every ride, you will not have stuck shafts.
i was paranoid after reading all these stuck shaft posts. took mine apart, 1 hit with a rubber mallett on a wood block had it moving. i am so glad i do this to my sleds after each ride. Ski
i was paranoid after reading all these stuck shaft posts. took mine apart, 1 hit with a rubber mallett on a wood block had it moving. i am so glad i do this to my sleds after each ride. Ski
