Removing helix bolts???
- Thread starter gmustangt
- Start date
Try an impact driver, the one you hit with a hammer. It will come right out
with heat, that's what we use
R
ripalip2
Well-known member
heat it up then hit it with the impact,the kind cascadesnowjunky said , a snap-on torix bit works best for me, worst case drill the head off, be careful and keep it centered,start small and go up in drill size till the head comes off, good luck
Occasionally a drill and new screws works good too. No loctite and not very tight.
And this is what will be happening! Tried all the above , there not moving.
What a piss off.
Plug weld a nut on them then back them out with a wrench while hot
Thought about it, still waiting for someone to buy me a multi thousand dollar welder.
I just went thru the same thing. I drilled out the damaged torx head til it was round and then hammed a slightly bigger torx bit in the hole; the new torx bit really had a good bite in the hole... Then it came right out when it was hot!! Made me sweat it though!!
B
Bandicoot
Member
This same thing happened to me last year when trying to get the heliz apart. I broke 2 hex bits, and was using a manual hammer on them. I tried heat as well...nothing worked. Called my dealer and explained the problem to them, they said to bring in the secondary so they could try. They broke 2 bits as well and then they warrantied the entire secondary for me. At the end of the day I got a new secondary and it came apart without any issues when I changed the helix.
I've heard others that put the hex bit on the head and hit them fairly hard with a hammer first, then put the hammer wrench on them and it helps break them free.
I've heard others that put the hex bit on the head and hit them fairly hard with a hammer first, then put the hammer wrench on them and it helps break them free.
One trick I use is to take a sharp center punch and put a good mark in the head of the screw close to the edge of the head. Then position the punch at about a 45* angle and use the punch to try and get it moving. This works very well since you have moved the turning torque to the outside of the fastener instead of right in the center. Good luck. Eric
They must have used the glue for the a arms there and loctited the a- arms .Just a thought.
Good luck some can be a real biotch .
Good luck some can be a real biotch .
Use a left hand drill bit and size it a little bigger than the stripped out torx section so you are grabbing the outside metal portion of the flat head of the bolt. It may back itself out when the bit catches. Think positive, it does happen. If that does not work, carefully drill with a larger bit (left hand preferably, it may spin out) to get the tapered section of the bolt down to the helix. Once the tapered section is drilled away the threaded section of the bolt should come out easily. It is the taper that is holding the bolt from turning. I have had to do this multiple times. Hope this helps.
One last method before you fire up the welder is to get a thin cutting disc and cut one slot across the bolt head. Then try a flat head screw driver with a square shaft. Use an end wrench on the shaft while secondary is in a soft vise. Has worked in the past. That also sell a tool that accepts random bits. When you hammer the tool it turns the bit. Have used it at work with good results. I'm sure it's fairly spendy option though.
Good luck
Good luck
Several good sharp hits with a ball peen hammer and they turn out no problem, ( if the first 2 or 3 hits don't work hit it just a little harder ) works every time, good luck
I have used this method also except I used a small sharp wood chisel. It will bite (cut) into the bolt head. Fix chisel with bench grinder when finished. Keep it for next time.
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